Mostly for sidecar use but I've run rears on the front with no problems before.

My TDM900 was the same, if I wanted to run a dirt tyre up front it had to be a narrow rear.  I think I used a 4.00-18 Metzeler Enduro 2 in that case.

When I build my rat, I'll be going that way again.

Al

If you want to raise the mudguard i think its better to fabricate a pair of aluminium plates in the desired thikness, one plate for each fork leg using both bolts  in one plate .
this way i think you wont be able to feel any loss of stiffnes , in the front fork that is.  

hope hou can understand my explanation.


k-rider

k-rider wrote:If you want to raise the mudguard i think its better to fabricate a pair of aluminium plates in the desired thikness, one plate for each fork leg using both bolts  in one plate .
this way i think you wont be able to feel any loss of stiffnes , in the front fork that is.  

hope hou can understand my explanation.


k-rider

 not following entirely....

Fitted FD, wheel and brand new RAM shock today   

Ok gents, advise sought.....

Considering I want this to be a semi-dual-sport-adventure-GS-type-thingy, what are your thoughts on the following set of tyres?

Both are available in standard OEM sizes for the respective rims - HOWEVER the front tyre will have to be a rear tyre sized appropriately. 

FRONT: K1100LT
Pirelli MT90AT Enduro / Dual Sport Rear Tires 70% Street / 30% Off-Road

REAR: K100RS
Shinko 705 Dual Sport Tires Designed for 80% street and 20% trail riding


Slightly dubious about the Shinko but they have great reviews...

The Mitas E-07 is my preference in these sort of tyres. Got one on the rear of the Super Tenere, no complaints at all.

I've used the MT90AT previously, on an R80G/S (Paul Rooney modified) I think.  It was a decent tyre, both on bitumen and dirt.

No experience with Shinkos at all.

Al

both sound worthwhile trying

I know there are considered opinions about the shinko  but I cant complain really ...they did the job ..and I suspect have come a long way in a few years of diversifications and design .
for some "the budget" is a prime consideration ...if you ride within expectations ...for others this is abhorrent...

for the price ...worth a little experimentation maybe ?

Thanks Al and Charlie.

WHat size Mitas do you run Al? 130 80 17 is the closest to my K100RS rear I can find. Will the lower profile (vs 90) mean much?

On the Super Tenere I use a 150/70-17(standard size).  

A 130/80 would be OK.  R100GS had the same, standard was a 130/90 but there were more tyres available in 130/80.

Al

Ok...

Think Im going to go with the Heidenau Scout K60's front and rear....They are a tad more then I wanted to spend, but have great reviews and seem to be a great mix of grip and mileage...

So Im thinking a 110 80 18 rear on the front and a 140 80 17 on the rear. They make a 130 90 17 however a few guys on GS's and the dude at Balmain Motorcycles pointed out that the 140 80 17 has a continuous tread ring all the way around the centre of the tyre, where as the 130 and under have tread blocks around the centre with gaps in between. The 140 is meant to last heaps longer with this continuous ring....

I figure the 140 will fit now that I have a K1100 centre stand. 

130 tyre with tread blocks:


140 tyre with continuous ring (right):



Here is the 110 80 18 rear fitted to an R100 on the front:

Lubing the splines at the trans output to the front of the drive shaft isn't that big of a deal.  Given the circlip there, they do not slide back and forth under load (like the final drive ones do) so they are much less subject to spline wear.

The rear splines don't slide either measure it someday.

RicK G wrote:The rear splines don't slide either measure it someday.

Whether you consider it measurable or not, on a monolever the rear splines DO slide back and forth, especially under load when the "jacking effect" occurs. That's what causes spline wear.

As the centre line of the universal joint is on the centre line of the swing arm, the rear splines DO NOT slide.

It's easy enough to check with a dial gauge, moving the swing arm through it's travel.



Wear is caused by the difference in speed between the input and output of a shaft with a single universal joint working at an angle.

Paul.

floyd wrote:

k-rider wrote:If you want to raise the mudguard i think its better to fabricate a pair of aluminium plates in the desired thikness, one plate for each fork leg using both bolts  in one plate .
this way i think you wont be able to feel any loss of stiffnes , in the front fork that is.  

hope hou can understand my explanation.


k-rider

 not following entirely....

hi floyd 
i will try this way :imagine part no.4 beeing a 1 inch thick aluminium plate ,then cut away the midlle part,voila , you now have two 1 inch thick shims to put under the original fork brace (no.4), this imo, is a better solution than 4 pieces of aluminium tubing.  





hope this helpes      

k-rider

Thank you Paul  QED

booked in to get the Hiedenau tyres fitted on Friday at Balmain Motorcycles.

Good news is that the 110 80 18 is universal front/rear. Sweet as. 


Thanks for the Paul Rooney name drop Al. Hadnt heard of him til now, but Im going to steal his life.

This was the Rooney bike (and Spike, my little mate for many years)

Husqvarna USD forks, lengthened swingarm, looong WP rear shock, braced frame, twin-plugged cyl heads/1000cc unleaded engine.  Should never have sold it.  It handled beatifully.

Al

AL-58 wrote: Should never have sold it. 

Al

Nope....   

Gorgeous. He does some wonderful things.


What it be worth to buy it back do ya reckon, out of curiosity?

I shall leave the answer to AL but there was an 1986 R80GSPD on Ebay that went for $12250 about 2 weeks ago.

RicK G wrote:I shall leave the answer to AL but there was an 1986 R80GSPD on Ebay that went for $12250 about 2 weeks ago.

Is that a stock one or Paul Mooney modified?

Are the stock R80GS/100GS's going for so much money because they are simply worth it, or because of relative rareness, or are the prices inflated because of the hype around GS's in general?

It had 19000km on it and was box stock.
They have been steadily going up in price for about 8 years now and it's not uncommon to have them go for $9000 or close to $10000.

Its hard to say.  It was a built up bike, not an original PD and although all the mods were well thought out and extremely well done, it was built to use not for presentation (looked a bit daggy and worn overall). Probably more than I sold it for though!

We had too many bikes and something had to go at the time.  It was a case of whatever sold first.  I wish the POS R1100R went instead.

Al

The R80G/S Paris-Dakar has been good property for a long time.  Not too many cheap ones about.  Best GS built still.

Al

Love all this talk about the R80G/S Paris Dakar Floyd.

Here's mine.



Which is where my GAZ80 moniker comes from.

hmmmm

starting to regret not getting some bad ass WP forks for the K!!

Ahhh who am I kidding...Im not racing to Dakar...  

I am putting K1100 forks on my K75GS, they have almost 200mm of travel but I may need to fiddle with the valving a bit.

RicK G wrote:I am putting K1100 forks on my K75GS, they have almost 200mm of travel but I may need to fiddle with the valving a bit.

My specs say 135mm

Oh you are right too but I will still put them on. I had my 1100 on some very bad tracks about 18 months ago, 250km and was very impressed by their performance with a very heavy bike.
Wonder where the hell I got that from might have read 185 without my glasses on WTF I am allowed to be an old fart now because I am an old fart. 

185mm travel is the K100RT/LT not the K1100.

I did run a stripped K100RT as a useful dirt touring bike for a very short while before I refitted the leftover sidecar bits and sold it on as a project. Hell of a lot of fun on the dirt(fire trails), much more confident and sure footed than my R1100GS ever was. That bike has now been to Cape York (OCR 2012).

The next one i builld will have a K1100 front end too (thats what I've got), will see how that goes when it happens.

Al

AL-58 wrote:185mm travel is the K100RT/LT not the K1100.

I did run a stripped K100RT as a useful dirt touring bike for a very short while before I refitted the leftover sidecar bits and sold it on as a project. Hell of a lot of fun on the dirt(fire trails), much more confident and sure footed than my R1100GS ever was. That bike has now been to Cape York (OCR 2012).

The next one i builld will have a K1100 front end too (thats what I've got), will see how that goes when it happens.

Al

Sweet! Got a pic?

RicK G wrote:Oh you are right too but I will still put them on. I had my 1100 on some very bad tracks about 18 months ago, 250km and was very impressed by their performance with a very heavy bike.
Wonder where the hell I got that from might have read 185 without my glasses on WTF I am allowed to be an old fart now because I am an old fart. 

I have done similar things on the K100 and I wasn't as good as the K1100 and I still have to get even for that ride on my brother 

hmmm

how does one extract an apparently seized piston from a K1100 front master cylinder?....

Do I detect several more hundred dollars leaving my bank account in the near future?.....

floyd wrote:Sweet! Got a pic?

Not as a solo, the only pics are as i bought it:

1. Take all the really good sidecar gear(subframe, sidecar chassis, rear shock, leading link, billet wheels) from the right one and fit the to the left one (much lower Kms RS).
   
2. Put the standard forks etc and fit them to the right one.
   
3. Give it some TLC
   
4. Ride it for a while (testing)
   
5. Fit all the left over HRD subframe, HRD chassis, DJP body, 15" rear wheel back on to the righthand bike.
   
6. Sell the right hand one on as a project.
   
   Net Result: for a net cost of $2000 I got an excellent leading link, custom billet 15" front and rear wheels, a Koni rear shock and an extremely strong subframe.  Everyone of which improved what my sidecar was.
   

Al

floyd wrote:hmmm

how does one extract an apparently seized piston from a K1100 front master cylinder?....

Do I detect several more hundred dollars leaving my bank account in the near future?.....

Mine wasn't extremely seized, but i boiled it for a while to breake up the crystallised brake fluid.  Piston then came out easy.

Al

Whatever you do, don't grab it with pliers as they are alloy with a hard anodized coating and although it's hard it is also brittle. Don't ask.  Getting them out heat and compressed air with a good bit of rag to stop them contacting anything hard.

Can I ask why choose an enduro tire and not just a really good quality road tire?  I found the enduro tires did not work well in the rain or sand.

martyman wrote:Can I ask why choose an enduro tire and not just a really good quality road tire?  I found the enduro tires did not work well in the rain or sand.

Because I'm making it up as I go along

Seemed like the appropriate choose for an all roads machine...will report back....

After all he is Going round the world on a K100 and not all the roads are paved, a fact that will show in his eyeballs when he returns.

Picked up a new set of thrttle bodies for $20 based on the fact they have been used to good effect by an individual in the know who had no complaints - although the magic paint is no more. However the main idle adjust screw and one of the butterfly linkage screws has some remnants of the paint which to me looks un tampered with. Good sign I guess. Although even when I cleaned em all out with carb cleaner etc and hold them up to the light, there is a slight variation in the balance - but its waaaay better then the best I could get with my severely messed up ones....

Added some of the recommended aircon pipe insulation to the fuel lines (9x13mm I think...) and also some to the fuel rail (13x13mm). Will be adding in a fuel cooler mod like Charlie and Rick et. al.  soon.

Have connected all the vacume ports together using 4mm vac hose and aquarium T's. Will try find some 6mm rubber cap things for the big huge vac ports on the back of the K1100 TB's



(Yes I know the return fuel line has no insulation on it. It will.)

The vacuum stubs at the back should be linked and the ones at the front should be capped. That way you will be able to get a balance that works.

RicK G wrote:The vacuum stubs at the back should be linked and the ones at the front should be capped. That way you will be able to get a balance that works.

HA!

Lucky. 

The ones at the back are massive. Will need to get bigger hose.

So the front ones are just for when your balancing?

Yeah, I'm perplexed now.  I made up my linked hose assembly based on the information in this post:

https://www.k100-forum.com/t1944p50-k1100-throttle-bodies-on-a-k100#51604

Themason's description of the vacuum port lead me to believe it was the front ones, not the back ones.  The key was the linking of the ports, and I couldn't see how to conveniently adapt the 3mm FPR hose to the 6mm ports.

The front ones are primarily for balancing Floyd.

(P.S. I confess that I haven't put my hose assembly on my K75 since working on it last week. I have all ports capped except TB3 which goes to the FPR, as on a standard K75)

Im lost....

front ones capped or linked+connected to FPR?

rear ones capped or linked+connected to FPR?

On a K1100 with standard TBs the ports at the rear are linked. These ports go into the bodies above the butterflys so vacuum is only present there when the butterflys are open. If you wish to cap then I am sure that no harm would come and it is not necessary to link them. They are only there to give a vacuum source to the cyclonic oil separator.
The ports on the front are not linked at any time and these ports go into the TBs below the butterflys and the primary purpose is to read the vacuum at idle so as to get an accurate balance.

floyd wrote:
Have connected all the vacume ports together using 4mm vac hose and aquarium T's. Will try find some 6mm rubber cap things for the big huge vac ports on the back of the K1100 TB's

Throw up a pic when you've done this, will you Floyd?

yep just cap them all Floyd

except the fuel regulator one of corse

I think clark rubber has some appropriate caps for the biguns at the back

still trying to find ones for the front round here..... at a reasonable price
then ill make a pocket full to hand out to the friends

Ok, lets try for a bit of clarity here as Im hazy as....


Sooooo, when fitting K1100 TB's to a K100 or K75...

We can basically set them up as if they were stock K100 TB's. Meaning we cap the back ports (as the K100 does not have these) and then connect the FPR vac hose to one of the TB's front vac ports, leaving the other 3 capped. Then we would be simulating the stock K100 set up. Correct so far?

I have read that it may help the FPR maintain a more constant pressure or whatever by linking all the front vac ports together and to the FPR so it has a more constant vacume. This is what I have done in the pic above, and this is how im going to leave it until i have a little more certainty that its the right thing  

Cant wait to run the beast with some carb sticks on it, and then with me on it!

RicK G wrote:
The ports on the front are not linked at any time and these ports go into the TBs below the butterflys and the primary purpose is to read the vacuum at idle so as to get an accurate balance.

and to provide an air path to the inlet valves (when the butterflys are closed )

Bugger it, Ill just order a set of these...





Anyone of you poms got a thousand quid you can lend me? You know, just til I can post you some Aussie dollars....