Any locals got any recommendations for a nice lengthy scenic shake-down ride for me to embark upon tomorrow..?

good work there floyd   ...and a little luck i imagine ....enjoy  your ride mate

Good onya Floyd, there's a lot of gratification in your own resto, enjoy the ride mate.

floyd wrote:Any locals got any recommendations for a nice lengthy scenic shake-down ride for me to embark upon tomorrow..?

Meet you at Kangaroo Valley Pub for lunch tomorrow.

Al

Nice work Floyd. Enjoy!

charlie99 wrote:  ...and a little luck i imagine ....

Indeed sir.

There are a select few times in life where encountering a miserable, self loathing, employment situation hating, lazy individual can be greatly to your advantage. Such as when you are hoping to acquire a blue slip (vehicle identity and saftey check) with a non functioning rear brake and ZERO legitimate ownership documents

Im not sure he even looked at the bike (except for the Chassis number for his paperwork). Blue slip was done by 12 on Saturday. Luckily the RTA in the city stays open til 3 on a Saturday

Then at the RTA (road authority here in NSW), my DIY letter of sale was totally fine. Mind you, I did manage to get back in touch with the PO and get his address and phone number for the form, as well as his 'authorisation' for my wife to sign for him.... 

They sighted the letter (infact they kept it now that I think about it), made me call up my CTP provider and change the VIN number as it was incomplete (thank christ they were open on a Saturday) and then that was that. Paid the coin, got the plate, job done

[on the subject for early K VIN #'s - the mechanic wrote mine on the form as "0080376K100RS" - is that correct? With the K100RS bit on the end? I had to call the CTP provider and get them to add this as I just put the string on numbers in, without the K100RS on the end)

Was easy as really. The dickhead mechanic I spoke to on Friday arvo needs his head read. Bloody ego tripper. Im gonna ring him on Monday and tell him what a dick he is. He was literally saying "You will never be able to get this registered". But then was quite happy to recommend me a place out west that will do it for a few hundred bucks and no paper work....dick head.

Oh well, happy happy happy!


Ill see you at the pub Al. You can bleed my brake for me  Rossko, Waz, and RT should come to. they are close by.

floyd wrote:Im not sure he even looked at the bike (except for the Chassis number for his paperwork).

Ha!  That guy sounds just like Rosey Toes, a famous local Toronto motorcycle mechanic.  He's infamous for issuing safeties of bikes without proper procedure, to put it mildly.

floyd wrote:on the subject for early K VIN #'s - the mechanic wrote mine on the form as "0080376K100RS" - is that correct? With the K100RS bit on the end? I had to call the CTP provider and get them to add this as I just put the string on numbers in, without the K100RS on the end)

Yes, the K100RS at the end is a legitimate VIN for that time; it predates modern VIN standards.  My K100 also has a VIN ending in K100RS.  It wreaks havoc here in Ontario because some insurance companies refuse outright to insure the bike because they can't enter the VIN into their computer systems -- it doesn't conform to modern VIN standards.

Good stuff Floyd,

Bit late notice for me to head off today.
Organise something else and let us know.

No sign of Floyd or the rastafarian K at the pub.  If he chose not ride in the horrible, cold, blustery conditions he's a smarter man than me.  It did mean the pub wasn't crowded which was good.


Al

Sorry Al....Didnt see your post til the AM and I got away a bit later then I wanted too....then my phone (map) died and I lost my way slightly, then the wind and horrible bloody weather hit and I had no gloves - fingers froze to a crisp....Was in the right general area but must have missed a turn off ..without a map I was stuffed and I got to grumpy to ask anyone  Got to Moss Vale at about 2pm and was feeling half dead from the cold, so chickened out and went home...)..

Anyways, hope you had a good time. I had a blast in the end.

That's OK Floyd.  We were going anyway (BM club ride).  If I didn't have to be there as the organiser I'd rather have stayed warm at home.

Marie took the 16v, I took the Super Tenere.  I was glad for the heated grips.

Al

Did about 300kms yesterday.....200 of nice country twisties, about 10 of knarly fire trail and about 100 highway.

Bike performed flawlessly. (except for already known issues) it dod not do anything unexpected or unwanted. did not miss a single beat.

I have probably only ridden 10 road bikes before, and this is by far one of the nicest to ride, nice power delivery, goes where I want it easily etc etc. great bike.

- My RS screen extender does not do what I was hopeing it would  the wind just blasts right into my head at anythning over 90kms. May need the LT fairing in the end....

- Need to take ducks advise and add some washers to the bar mounts to stiffen them up a bit.

- Had been putting off setting up the rear shock till my mrs could help, then I forgot about it.....until I pulled over in the Royal for a break....realised It had no preload at all and no damping at all  Luckily my BMW tool kit is still mostly complete and I had the shock spanner tool with me. What a difference it made to actually have a rear shock! heheh

- Chunky tyres were good. didnt notice them to be honest. Never really felt a lack of confidence in their grip. We'll wait and see what the wet is like though. They were wicked on the fire trail though.

- not much else to report, other then how stoked I am! 

- Oh, just remembered. The Odo and the trip meter are not working at all. Will pull it apart and look at a later date. Everything else on the cluster works fine. Took me a while to work out what the red triangle warning light is, but I figure its a brake warning light of some sort?

Very much looking forward to a bit of a ride with you blokes.

Great result! Well done Floyd.

I thought the idea was that you built it and then went round the world....a ride doesn't get much longer or more scenic than that, but not really a shake down ride.

Goodonya Floyde
I am sorry I missed the invite yesterday I was in Orange. I'm in next time.

Does it qualify for the scrap heap chalange? (Not calling it a heap)

Waz

Waz wrote:Goodonya Floyde
I am sorry I missed the invite yesterday I was in Orange. I'm in next time.

Does it qualify for the scrap heap chalange? (Not calling it a heap)

Waz

Whats the rules?
"

• Start with a bike which cost less than $1000 and spend any additional sums on the bike to make it roadworthy, all machines participating must be registered.
  

I got 3 K100's for $1800 delivered and unloaded. So that makes 1 worth $600. So yes, Bob qualifies. And I have spent more then I wanted to in repairing it, so it still qualifies

Ill be riding to the Gold Coast pretty much at that time too, so should work well.


I was born and bred in Orange, lovely place. Hated it as a kid though (although we all knew it was better then both Bathurst AND Dubbo. And Mudgee? Who cares about Mudgee?  )

It qualifies bring it along, it will go well along the goat tracks Gaz has plotted out.

Orange was as cold as a witches tit. Very nice train ride.

Oh... and my gear box output shaft seal as well as the Hall sensor engine seal in the timing cover both leak... Bummer


Are 'false nuetrals' reasonably common on thee boxes? I got this fairly regularly between 3/4 but mostly 4/5. Not a prob with a more forceful shift, however with a more casual shift I would get it.

floyd wrote:
Ill be riding to the Gold Coast pretty much at that time too, so should work well.

give us heads up before you head up floyd ....

we could share a brew or a cuppa and some scones up here in "k"weensland

Are 'false nuetrals' reasonably common on thee boxes

If you try and change gears quick they will false on you, slowly and firm is good.

Waz wrote:Are 'false nuetrals' reasonably common on thee boxes

If you try and change gears quick they will false on you, slowly and firm is good.

Wot he said.

They aren't like the gearbox on a Japanese bike, slow and firm is the way to go.

Al

floyd wrote:Oh... and my gear box output shaft seal as well as the Hall sensor engine seal in the timing cover both leak... Bummer


Are 'false nuetrals' reasonably common on thee boxes? I got this fairly regularly between 3/4 but mostly 4/5. Not a prob with a more forceful shift, however with a more casual shift I would get it.

You cannot do a casual shift on a K it just doesn't work. Best to preload the shifter a bit then clutch in and a positive change especially on the way down.
Just like any getrag gearbox even my 320i you have to make a very positive shift or neutral jumps in and the revs go sky high.

charlie99 wrote:

floyd wrote:
Ill be riding to the Gold Coast pretty much at that time too, so should work well.

give us heads up before you head up floyd ....

we could share a brew or a cuppa and some scones up here in "k"weensland

Will do mate, look forward to it.



Thanks for the gearbox feed back too people. 
Having never stripped or rebuilt a gear box, IM glad to hear that the false neutrals are mostly likely being caused by my wannabe GP style shifting  and not a result of some error I made inside the box.

Pulled off throttle bodies to fine tune butterflies as much as possible using a super fine drill bit as a feeler guage. These TBs were out of wack despite never having been tampered with.

Got them fairly close (alot closer then when I began) and re installed on bike. All brass screws set to 1 1/2 turns out.

Choke cable, throttle cable all routed correctly and not caught up.

When I start the bike it revs to 5 grand or so and wants to keep going until i shut it off.

With the TPS connected, when I blip the throttle it revs up then when I close it the revs drop to idle for about 1 second then goes back to reving its head off.

WIthout the TPS it just revs and revs and revs.

No obvious air leaks.

Butterflies were effectively shut when I reinstalled the TBs....

bugger......

That's very classic of running lean at idle. Have you tried putting one of the other MAF sensors (air flow meter) because  if it is sticking a bit that could cause a lean running at idle.  Maybe you could clean the wiper and track on pot the flap works, they do give problems if they get dirty.

perhaps even reposition the pot section of the maf ......easy to do and will restore a good wiper across the carbon track

dont forget that the value you are looking for is about 1.125 volts on the output of the pot at closed



additional information is that the pin and armature of the maf connector (on top of the assembly ) do go open circuit  and need just a touch of modification if found .

this is noted on almost all lejetronic tuners sites i have seen    ( some of these guys have even put a flexible wire betwen the two sections to eliminate the issue ....as long as the wire holds up )

  sounds like you have a leak in the rubbers on at least one cylinder ..when you put them back on floyd ....you did reconnect the breather tube to the crankcase at the back of the plenum ???   and it has no leaks ?


just my thoughts

Just went and pulled the injectors and TBs out again, checked the lot and put it back in. No leaks, everything is seated in the rubber as it should be....manifolds, breather hose etc

Starts easy as, now it idles slightly slower, like 2000-3000 instead of 4000-5000. When I blip throttle it revs up fast then hovers, then slowly comes back down to 2000-3000....

Will investigate maf sensor tomorrow. Was working fine before hand....can the water temp sensor have any effect on this? That little bloody thing has given me a few headaches

can the water temp sensor have any effect on this? That little bloody thing has given me a few headaches.
Unlikely with an L Jetronic.

While I think about it have you got the inner rear guard and or the back section where the number plate goes from that K1100.

floyd wrote:Just went and pulled the injectors and TBs out again, checked the lot and put it back in. No leaks, everything is seated in the rubber as it should be....manifolds, breather hose etc

Starts easy as, now it idles slightly slower, like 2000-3000 instead of 4000-5000. When I blip throttle it revs up fast then hovers, then slowly comes back down to 2000-3000....

Will investigate maf sensor tomorrow. Was working fine before hand....can the water temp sensor have any effect on this? That little bloody thing has given me a few headaches

floyd 

just out of interest ....i know the book says 1.5 turns out  ...but have found a happy place further in ...ie about 1 turn out ...

give it a try  ...you do have some carb sticks handy ...? yes ?   if not   forget it till you do

RicK G wrote:can the water temp sensor have any effect on this? That little bloody thing has given me a few headaches.
Unlikely with an L Jetronic.

While I think about it have you got the inner rear guard and or the back section where the number plate goes from that K1100.

Nah sorry mate. PO gave the rear away.

Hi floyd 
have you made sure that o e of the clamps on the tb rubbers is not blocking the movement of the tb rail ?

k-rider

Hi floyd 
another thougt : have you checked if the throttle stop screw is touching the stop plate.
imo it has to be something preventing the free movement of the bytterflies-rail-or cables ,

good luck with the search 
You have allready come a long way , this is just another small bump on the road.

k-rider

k-rider wrote:Hi floyd 
another thougt : have you checked if the throttle stop screw is touching the stop plate.
imo it has to be something preventing the free movement of the bytterflies-rail-or cables ,

good luck with the search 
You have allready come a long way , this is just another small bump on the road.

k-rider

Thanks for the input mate, ill take any suggestions I can get.

What you suggest was one of the first things I thought of. 
There is nothing at all obstructing the operation of the throttle bodies and their butterflies. The throttle operates smoothly and as it should, and there is nothing holding it open.

floyd wrote:Pulled off throttle bodies to fine tune butterflies as much as possible using a super fine drill bit as a feeler gauge. These TBs were out of whack despite never having been tampered with.

As I understood the technique, you need two drill bits of the same size. One is inserted into TB2 and sets the standard for the other butterfly valves. Then, you sequentially measure and adjust the gap on the other valves using the second bit as the feeler gauge. The other three butterfly valves should have zero clearance. I believe a drill bit is used because it is round (just like the throat of the TB), ensuring it only touches at the highest point.

Is this the technique you used when you set the valves?

robmack wrote:

floyd wrote:Pulled off throttle bodies to fine tune butterflies as much as possible using a super fine drill bit as a feeler gauge. These TBs were out of whack despite never having been tampered with.

As I understood the technique, you need two drill bits of the same size.  One is inserted into TB2 and sets the standard for the other butterfly valves.  Then, you sequentially measure and adjust the gap on the other valves using the second bit as the feeler gauge.  The other three butterfly valves should have zero clearance.  I believe a drill bit is used because it is round (just like the throat of the TB), ensuring it only touches at the highest point.

Is this the technique you used when you set the valves?

Nope.

I chocked the rest stop screw thingy (which alot of people confuse for the idle adjust) open with some 20c coins, then used a selection of super small bits to get a bit of an idea which was open more or less. 

Then narrowing down my selection of bits to the 1 which was closest to all of them, I adjusted the linkages until they were all as close together as I could get, using the bit as a gauge. 

They are ALOT closer now then when I started. TB3's valve was visibly open about 3mm when I started, and I just could not get them close using carbsticks on the bike. 

Now, with them off the bike, held up to the light, the smallest sliver of light is visible around the butterflies, but appears to be more or less equal. I know this has to be closer then more or less, but so far I am happy with how they appear. Just need to sort out what every is causing these high revs (will check MAF today) and see what they look like on the vacume gagues.

Thanks Robmack

Ok gurus....

Here is the insides of my 2 remaining AFMs....I regrettably sold one of the other before I ensured I had a working one....dickhead...

alas....


These 2 are different. Is that black cable a fix on later models, and should this be the unit I go for? (if we assume for a moment they are both fully functional)

yes ...not a fix ...but probably an upgrade process at factory

keep the later production model one ...possibly less work ?

woohoo

Bob is back on the road, and doing better then ever!


I decided to go back to the beginning....I pulled the TBs out, the injectors, the airbox and AFM. Reassembled step by step, ensuring everything was perfect and as it should be. Installed the newer version AFM. 

Bike started and ran ok....

let it run til the fan came on.

Grabbed the carbsticks. 

Acording to the carbsticks, with all brass screws closed, there is a slight amount of work needed to balance the linkages/butterflies a bit more, but right now Im very happy with where I got them with the drill bit technique. 

Got them balanced as much as I could using the brass bypass screws (and my very little experience and knowledge on the topic) and set a nice idle with them. Got them fairly close at idle and really close at about 3000rpm.

Dont know if in the end it was AFM, I could go swap them again and see - or if I had missed something or jammed something etc without realising when I reinstalled it all the first time. Either way, its running great and I know more now about the AFM then I did before. 

Grabbed all my gear, suited up for a ride...hit the starter....no start.... PHARK the neighbours hear me cry in pain. 

Im sweaty now coz I have done the right thing and am in a thick riding jacket, helmet, gloves etc.....I take it all off, investigate further....the fuel tank connector had come out....plugged it in....hit the green button....vrooooooom

Went for a ride. The best its run so far. So nice and smooth and it puuuulls nicely. But that damn fuel tank electrical connector kept coming loose. 

Are there any known mods/fixes for the early style fuel tank electrical connector (such as a newer style connector) or am I just going to have to cut the nice fresh unused one from out of the relay box on my spare doner loom? I think its for extra accessories of some sort, like heated grips or something. The round 4 pin sucker.

I ended up replacing that flakey connector because it gave me endless trouble. I used a 4 pin spade type from the local auto shop and made the wires a bit longer so as to make tank removal easy.
What I think happens is that they get forgotten when you are taking the tank off and get strained a bit each time because there are quite a few connectors like them and it is the only that usually gives trouble.

great to hear floyd

a widdle pinch of the individual sockets to close them a little ....might help the tank connection ...oh ! and some deoxit on both sides to add to the enhanced connection


cheers mate

Great that you've nudged that bike into shape, little by little.

I'd recommend replacing the connector over trying to deform it to make it work.  Use a 4-pin trailer connector which will give you a positive lock and reliable connection.  After all, you're planning on taking this bike into unknown inhospitable locations and can't afford to have electrical breakdowns such as what you just experienced.

robmack wrote:Great that you've nudged that bike into shape, little by little.

I'd recommend replacing the connector over trying to deform it to make it work.  Use a 4-pin trailer connector which will give you a positive lock and reliable connection.  After all, you're planning on taking this bike into unknown inhospitable locations and can't afford to have electrical breakdowns such as what you just experienced.

Thanks Robmack, yet again.

My tank is the first kind. The connector on the tank side of things is actually integral to the fuel level gauge and cant be removed or changed. 

Are you talking about a 4 pin plug that will be able to plug and 'lock' into this? Or are you thinking of the later types of tanks where there was a bit of cable coming out from the tank, then the connector?

This arvo I soldered on a less worn 4 pin connector to the wiring loom and it friction fits in the tank socket much nicer then the old one. Much better connection then before...still a poor design.

Rick suggested that maybe the microphone plugs of a CB radio would suit...
Ebay (better pic)
Ebay (cheaper)

The above is a right angle one, which would be much better then the stock one. The stock one forces the cable to be realy strained at  90deg to the plug when its connected.

You normally have an as new connector in your relays box, if you don't want to use another type of connector :-)

ReneZ wrote:You normally have an as new connector in your relays box, if you don't want to use another type of connector :-)

Yep, i have used that one , same connecter but  like new .

k-rider

That connector in the relay box is for BMW's anti-theft device......an optional extra.

Just for info,
Paul.

oh yeah !

something similar is in the plans here ...shhhh

Just an update for the sake of continuity....

Still no luck what so ever with rear brake.

Front beld out easy as....rear is a biatch....

Maybe ill even make a quick vid to explain/demonstrate.....



But basically nothing I try is working. 
I have tried every method listed on this thread, including taking the caliper of and keeping it up high. Ive tried keeping it down load, ive tried filling the master and lines with fluid from a syringe, ive tried a vacume bleeder to pull the fluid through etc etc Have not tried a bleeder that forces the fluid through yet.

There are no blockages in the line. The fluid flows into the master from the reservoir. When the pedel is depressed, there is a small amount of pressure, and a small amount of fluid will get passed through. But no matter how long I go through the bleeding process, it just wont get good pressure and a good flow. 

I have been to 2 mechanics. One of them hooked up a vacume bleeder and played for a while to no avail. The other is a brake mechanic and we stripped the entire rear system and pulled out the master again for inspection.

It is a K1100 12mm master with a 12mm rebuild kit installed (Does using the 1100 m/c on a 100 caliper mater? This m/c was in the best nick out of all the ones I have, but I dont have a k1100 caliper)

I GENTLY cleaned out the bore with a green scotchbrite pad. 

The m/c does not leak, i.e. fluid is not getting around the seals, so that seems ok. However when he was playing with the m/c he was remarking that the piston did not seem to come back out far enough for the suction to be created to pull fluid back into the cylinder from the lines/caliper.

Anyways, I have no freakin idea. It doesnt seem to make sense and 2 mechanics are scratching their heads along with me.

The brake mechanic did say that with a 'push through' bleeder I may be able to get at least a bit of a rear brake, but he seemed to think something was up with the m/c and will prevent it working properly, but he couldnt tell me what was wrong with it....hmmmm pain in the ass.

And of course, the rest of my master cylinders are 4.5 hours away. Damn i want a shed! The Mrs helmet will arrive in the post this week, but Im not keen at all about the idea of taking her for a ride without a rear brake.....

The only reason I can come up with is that the tiny hole that lets the fluid through to the cylinder is blocked.
We have seen this here a couple of times and the latest was RossKo with a front M/C
There are 2 holes that go from the feeder hose into the M/C, one which is closest to the open end is about 2mm in size and the other about 1mm or less and the small one is very easily clogged when left sitting.
Big problem here is that while that non-removeable thing is in the top of the M/C where the hose attaches it is next to impossible to fix it.
You can see the larger hole by looking up the bore but the smaller hole which is about 9mm further in is almost invisible at best and totally invisible when it is clogged.
Try using a Primus prick (no that isn't the CEO of Primus internet) but a thin tin thing about the size of an ice-block stick with a tiny piece of high tensile wire attached at right angles which can get into the hole and clean it out.
A piece of 0.6 MIG welding wire and very thin long nosed pliers might do it.
If that hole is blocked then all you do is pump the fluid in and then suck it out of the caliper.
Give it a go you never know.

RicK G wrote:The only reason I can come up with is that the tiny hole that lets the fluid through to the cylinder is blocked.
We have seen this here a couple of times and the latest was RossKo with a front M/C
There are 2 holes that go from the feeder hose into the M/C, one which is closest to the open end is about 2mm in size and the other about 1mm or less and the small one is very easily clogged when left sitting.
Big problem here is that while that non-removeable thing is in the top of the M/C where the hose attaches it is next to impossible to fix it.
You can see the larger hole by looking up the bore but the smaller hole which is about 9mm further in is almost invisible at best and totally invisible when it is clogged.
Try using a Primus prick (no that isn't the CEO of Primus internet) but a thin tin thing about the size of an ice-block stick with a tiny piece of high tensile wire attached at right angles which can get into the hole and clean it out.
A piece of 0.6 MIG welding wire and very thin long nosed pliers might do it.
If that hole is blocked then all you do is pump the fluid in and then suck it out of the caliper.
Give it a go you never know.

Maybe an ultrasonic clean?

Even though the other M/Cs might look worse on the exterior, they may be better operationally that the one with which you are currently struggling.  Maybe it would be prudent to swap over to one of the knattier ones to see if it performs better, rather than wasting more time on this one.

robmack wrote:Even though the other M/Cs might look worse on the exterior, they may be better operationally that the one with which you are currently struggling.  Maybe it would be prudent to swap over to one of the knattier ones to see if it performs better, rather than wasting more time on this one.

Easier said then done. It would be a 9 hr return trip to go and get one. At least one of them had the piston stuck in the bore, and most of them were showing nasty signs of corrosion - but your most likely right, one of them would have worked fine! Damn Murphy at work again......

Might have to hit up Rosskko, my local spare parts man

In hind sight Im spewing I bought the bloody rebuild kit. Not a great deal cheaper then an entire new m/c.