So the cable is about to go....one strand disconnected.
Any tips re replacement as in do i have to take the tank off
Can i tape the new cable to the old and pull it thru under the tank etc ?

Tank off. No choice, because you have to be able to fit the cable outer into the throttlebody quadrant and that, IMHO, has not proved possible for me from the 'outside'. In addition, there's a lot of cr*p under the tank for the new cable to snag on if you try to pull it through.

Go on; the job takes about twenty minutes. I had to do it last weekend!

Hi Rod

I replaced the cable on my K1100RS recently , tank off as Dai says, but I was able to pull the new cable through using the old one. It did not take long and what an improvement.

Thanks lad's,
That's ok
At least I can have her prepped and ready when cable lands

I saw a video on youtube re adjusting it.
and I note others had probs with wear on the lever etc
So a few things to check in the meantime

adios
R

Recently replaced the cable on the K11LT.  Piece of cake

1. take off the cable from the lever
2. take off the cable from the clutch arm
3. make sure (outer) cable is free to slide 
4. Tape new cable to old cable using insulation tape - making sure to leave no bits that can snag
5. Pull through

No fairing or tank was harmed in the replacement, or disturbed.

Whole thing took about half an hour.

DeRodster wrote:Thanks lad's,
That's ok
At least I can have her prepped and ready when cable lands

I saw a video on youtube re adjusting it.
and I note others had probs with wear on the lever etc
So a few things to check in the meantime

adios
R

indeed rod

my cable went again the other day ...the cable broke at the gland in the handle ....I guess it had slipped down in the adaptor then grabbed by the cut-out in the handle and bent rather severely

I hope to install some form of rubberised outer to the cable that will help it sit in the middle of the perch instead of sagging down into that position where it could grab again

mind you the lubrication I normally put in the pivot point and gland area had been washed out over the months and was dry as ...I could feel the dryness in the action before the blooming thing broke
2 or 3 threads got me home though ,,,phew

Funny...clutch cables...they must have got together in a conspiracy. I took my red basic in for a road worthy inspection and the bloke went around the bike, pulled the brake lever, then the clutch....it broke at the handle. Seeing it was his action that broke it he replaced the cable and no charge for labour. Not sure whether the tank came off. Just lucky it didn't happen to me on the way to see him.

charlie99 wrote:mind you the lubrication I normally put in the pivot point and gland area had been washed out over the months and was dry as ...I could feel the dryness in the action before the blooming thing broke
2 or 3 threads got me home though ,,,phew

Charlie - I tried greasing the top end of the cable i.e. the pivoty-thing bit with spline lube grease. Works a treat - it hadn't washed out in four months of a sh!t wet Irish summer. In my case the cable had rubbed through where it entered the adjuster - turned out to be a nasty edge just waiting for it.

The K1100 is much easier due to being able to get under the tank easily by lifting it up and back while the fuel lines are still connected but with a K100 it is often a case of off with the tank as it can save a lot of time in the long run.

When replacing it check that the barrel and the lever does not need replaced. I replaced mine with a third party (featherlight) and it was not as smooth a fit as a genuine BMW part. Works well but needs a wee bit of filing to fit.
I carry a spare lever, barrel and BMW cable, as we do tend to travel far in OZ.
Cheers
Mike

good idea dai ...

probably just me cleaning too aggressively after a few dusty trips into the bush ...grin

charlie99 wrote:

I hope to install some form of rubberised outer to the cable that will help it sit in the middle of the perch instead of sagging down into that position where it could grab again

Charlie, we were talking about this about 3 years ago and I used some plastic tube, split along it's length, and located in the cable adjuster to centralise the nipple in the lever. Been good ever since.

Paul.

good reminder Paul

thanks for that ..
exactly what I had thought

What about the standard felt guide that came with the bike?


Clutch cable felt ring in adjuster | CAA31610
Fits K75, K75S, K75C, K75RT, K100, K100RS, K100RT, K100LT, K100RS 16v, K1, K1100RS, K1100LT
Motorworks

Plastic tube is cheaper

Scrooge

Well anyway, apart from all that, I got it changed today.
Mind you it took more than 30 mins....more like 3 hrs.
In any case it's done and I'm "on the road again"

Adios
R

Did you pull it through with the old one? From which end ? Tank or gearbox?

Hi 88, last October I broke a clutch cable on my K1100 when on a trip to Victoria, 1,500km from home. Gave me the chance to practise riding without clutch for about 100km before I pulled up to fit my spare which I have always carried on long trips.

I taped the new cable to the broken one up at the handlebar end and pulled the new one through. Mine is routed from the lever around the front of the steering head to the right side then diagonally across to the lower left to the clutch arm. I pulled the full length through to the right of the steering head then pulled it through to the lower left, this seemed to give me a straighter pull. Probably about half an hour roadside.

I suspect my lack of attention to lubing the barrel in the lever to allow it to turn freely contributed as the cable broke right there.

Cheers

Gaz wrote:I taped the new cable to the broken one up at the handlebar end and pulled the new one through. Mine is routed from the lever around the front of the steering head to the right side then diagonally across to the lower left to the clutch arm. I pulled the full length through to the right of the steering head then pulled it through to the lower left, this seemed to give me a straighter pull. Probably about half an hour roadside.

Hi Gaz,
Same routing as mine I think. I ran a temp repair down the right side of the bike and across but left the old one in situ for a later pull through. 

The original runs between the top of the rad and the steering head but it's too tight there to pull the two through. 

Might have to remove the right inner to get a bit more wrestling room.

I've only had to replace the clutch cable twice on my naked K100. I usually loosen off the dash pad so as to ease the cable thru to the handlebar lever. Then its pretty straight from the right of the steering head thru to the clutch lever on the left with the other end. I have a foam partition across the top of the filter housing and plenum which has a small notch out of the top where the cable sits.

Why not revive an old thread?

Are the clutch cables generally Teflon lined, and will replacing a visually intact clutch cable  usually result in an easier to pull clutch?

I'm out of pratice riding with a clutch, since I've been spoiled by my Suzuki Burgman 650 for the last decade, so my left forearm got a bit sore after riding 150 kms mostly on back roads.

The clutch cable is Teflon lined and doesn't have to be lubricated. I chose however lubricate mine with Tri Flo which is a PTFE lubricant. Never lubricate with an petroleum based lubricant like WD40 as these can cause the liner to break down. Lubricating with PTFE has the added benefit of flushing out the crap that gets into the cable.  I've never had to replace my 186,000 Km 30 year old cable. The clutch can also benefit from adding a grease nipple to the clutch arm especially in wetter snowy climates. It keeps the bearings lubricated and stops water and road crap from getting in.
Regards Martin.

While on the subject of clutch cable lubrication, it is worthwhile to note that many, if not most, cable failures occur at the lever end of the cable.

There is a barrel fitting on the end of the cable that when the lever is pulled needs to rotate a few degrees in the lever's socket.  When the parts are dry, it can't rotate freely, stressing the cable where it connects to the barrel fitting causing it to fail. 

A drop of engine oil on the fitting every month or so will go a long way toward making the cable last a lot longer.  You can also rub a film of spline lube on the barrel to help it rotate.  The important thing is to regularly provide a little lubrication.

i have done a few without removing the tank at all. Use the old cable to pull the new one through. A roll of duct tape is needed, undo it at the lever and get it line up straight in under the right hand side of the tank and tape the new one on and gently pull it through.The end comes out nicely beside the battery by the pivot arm. Then you can feed the top end back up to the lever.

Thats when you find the new cable does NOT have a nipple.........and then discover you have lost the nipple because it fell out. So keep a spare nipple taped to your spare cable or....under the seat or in the relay box.