1 Recommended oils?? Mon Mar 14, 2016 6:06 am
Reg
Silver member
Any body know recommended oils for engine/ gear box/ final drive for the K11??
1989 K100RT VIN 0097367 (naked) 1996 K1100RS VIN 0451808 | Fuel: 95 Octane Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50 Gear Box Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90 |
Reg wrote:Any body know recommended oils for engine/ gear box/ final drive for the K11??
Point-Seven-five wrote:Just don't put molybdenum disulfide in the engine. It will kill your sprag clutch. DAMHIK
You have been warned. Your oil can be too slippery.
I use these synthetic grades in all my 8 and 16 valve K's without any issues. My K100 track bike has been mercilessly thrashed on track days often up to the rev limiter and all's well. Gearbox and final drive also good.Kaptain Holister wrote:Aww no!! Not another oil thread.... Someone had to say it
Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 10W40
GB/FD Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90
BMW do recommend synthetic engine oil and I think issues like sprag clutch problems are caused by using a mineral oil with low detergent.
I saw that, and wanted to warn anybody who might think that putting it in the engine is a good idea.92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Point-Seven-five wrote:Just don't put molybdenum disulfide in the engine. It will kill your sprag clutch. DAMHIK
You have been warned. Your oil can be too slippery.
No, it went in gearbox and final drive....
Point-Seven-five wrote:I saw that, and wanted to warn anybody who might think that putting it in the engine is a good idea.92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Point-Seven-five wrote:Just don't put molybdenum disulfide in the engine. It will kill your sprag clutch. DAMHIK
You have been warned. Your oil can be too slippery.
No, it went in gearbox and final drive....
I made the mistake of using Honda Moly 60 as an assembly lube when I did my cylinder head. After an hour or so of run time the sprag stopped working. I had to do a backspin to get the engine started with a full can of Seafoam, let it run for a half hour and did an oil change to get the moly out.
1989 K100RT VIN 0097367 (naked) 1996 K1100RS VIN 0451808 | Fuel: 95 Octane Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50 Gear Box Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90 |
agree BlakeyblaKey wrote:"Close this discussion as soon as possible, please. It never ends well.
Just buy something reputable and slippery and change it regularly; your bike will love it."
^ This.
I will add...use oils to suit the climate where you live and the temperature you will encounter before your next oil change.
Kaptain Holister wrote:Aww no!! Not another oil thread.... Someone had to say it
Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 10W40
I would recommend 20W50 this is better for hot temperatures, I don't think anybody will use the bike -20Celsius
GB/FD Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90
this is the 30Years old BMW recommend oil, the modern equivalent would be SAE 75W-140 API GL-5
BMW do recommend synthetic engine oil and I think issues like sprag clutch problems are caused by using a mineral oil with low detergent.
Reg wrote:…
and stopped of for a pint of blackstuff …
this is the correct stuff, I use the same :-) It runs perfect, but you have to fill up more often!
Chocolate wrote:Reg wrote:…
and stopped of for a pint of blackstuff …
this is the correct stuff, I use the same :-) It runs perfect, but you have to fill up more often!
Cheers
92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Chocolate wrote:Reg wrote:…
and stopped of for a pint of blackstuff …
this is the correct stuff, I use the same :-) It runs perfect, but you have to fill up more often!
Cheers
Need to watch that black stuff. It can burn the exhaust valve and tailpipe if you run it too rich.
Was so...Corkboy (post No.12) mentioned the T word. My simple mind was unable to contemplate the magnitude of an oil and tyre discussion in the same moment of consciousness so I failed safe and "disregarded the post" - until now.92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:He looks well oiled anyways......
Look what this talk of oil started....!!
Just as well there was no mention of tyres.
A little harsh Dai...it's been a long day and he is obviously tyred and, whilst (lucky b'stard) he is not balding, he may still be losing his grip.Dai wrote:SHOOT HIM!!!!!!!!
1989 K100RT VIN 0097367 (naked) 1996 K1100RS VIN 0451808 | Fuel: 95 Octane Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50 Gear Box Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90 |
Kaptain Holister wrote:In my best written Irish accent.
I am aghast at the frivolity displayed on dis sacred Oil Tread. Have a torght for dose who worship the Golden Viscosity.....
Jesus...Don't start the Larger debate againKaptain Holister wrote:In my best written Irish accent.
I am aghast at the frivolity displayed on dis sacred Oil Tread. Have a torght for dose who worship the Golden Viscosity.....
Fixed that for you Will!!88 wrote:Jesus...Don't start theKaptain Holister wrote:In my best written Irish accent.
I am aghast at the frivolity displayed on dis sacred Oil Tread. Have a torght for dose who worship the Golden Viscosity.....oiltyresLarger debate again
Chocolate wrote:Kaptain Holister wrote:Aww no!! Not another oil thread.... Someone had to say it
Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 10W40
I would recommend 20W50 this is better for hot temperatures, I don't think anybody will use the bike -20Celsius
I'd agree Choco, its maybe a little low in viscosity but the K is an over engineered machine with fine tolerances, polished contact surfaces, hardchromed crankshaft journals and nickasil bore linings etc. From what I've read it can handle a quality modified synthetic 10W40. Just my opinion. She's due for a change now and I'll be using same oil but in a 15W50
GB/FD Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90
this is the 30Years old BMW recommend oil, the modern equivalent would be SAE 75W-140 API GL-5
75W140 gear oil is a much higher viscosity oil not suitable for general road use. Its used in drive trains under excessive load like trucks. This viscosity in a BMW drive train would produce higher than normal running temperatures with greater drag and a marginally lower power output. Bearings would suffer due to reduced oil flow imo. 75W90 is the correct oil to use
BMW do recommend synthetic engine oil and I think issues like sprag clutch problems are caused by using a mineral oil with low detergent.
Just my 5 cent
Cheers
1989 K100RT VIN 0097367 (naked) 1996 K1100RS VIN 0451808 | Fuel: 95 Octane Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50 Gear Box Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90 |
Kaptain Holister wrote:Chocolate wrote:Kaptain Holister wrote:Aww no!! Not another oil thread.... Someone had to say it
Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 10W40
I would recommend 20W50 this is better for hot temperatures, I don't think anybody will use the bike -20Celsius
I'd agree Choco, its maybe a little low in viscosity but the K is an over engineered machine with fine tolerances, polished contact surfaces, hardchromed crankshaft journals and nickasil bore linings etc. From what I've read it can handle a quality modified synthetic 10W40. Just my opinion. She's due for a change now and I'll be using same oil but in a 15W50
20W50, 10W50 or 10W50 is a question of temperature where we live. In the end they are all OK
GB/FD Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90
this is the 30Years old BMW recommend oil, the modern equivalent would be SAE 75W-140 API GL-5
75W140 gear oil is a much higher viscosity oil not suitable for general road use. Its used in drive trains under excessive load like trucks. This viscosity in a BMW drive train would produce higher than normal running temperatures with greater drag and a marginally lower power output. Bearings would suffer due to reduced oil flow imo. 75W90 is the correct oil to use
I'm not sure with this, in the German forum they all recommend SAE 75W-140 API GL-5 as newer and better oil then the 30 years old BMW recommend 75W90.
BMW do recommend synthetic engine oil and I think issues like sprag clutch problems are caused by using a mineral oil with low detergent.
Just my 5 cent
Cheers
Because everything has already been discovered...Ace Handler wrote:Pardon my ignorance, please - I have never been formally introduced previously to the benefits of adding Molybdenum Disulphide to geared drives, but sounds like a miracle product! Why isn't it a standard additive for final drive oils is the question (niche market!).
Oh yes there is an advantage. In cold weather a 5w50 will circulate the engine much quicker than a 20w50 will at start up. when warm they will both be a 50 so the same.jbt wrote:There's no advantage for using a low viscosity index -below 20w50- unless you're riding under -10°Celsius (15°F). Who does?
1989 K100RT VIN 0097367 (naked) 1996 K1100RS VIN 0451808 | Fuel: 95 Octane Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50 Gear Box Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90 |
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