BMW K bikes (Bricks)


You are not connected. Please login or register

View previous topic View next topic Go down  Message [Page 1 of 1]


k

k
New member
New member
I see several threads on this, but no bottom-line answer.

Does lowering a K100 an inch make the bike handle better, worse, or no different?

Are there downsides to lowering a K?

Is it net worth it to lower a K if you'd like the bike a bit lower?

Thanks.

    

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
In theory it should make it turn in faster, but I really, really doubt if the average road rider would notice the difference even in a side-by-side comparison. If you're a loopy rider than you might scrape your boots a bit more often (yes, it's possible on a K!) but it's difficult to get the ironwork down.

A lower seat would be the cheaper way to go because although you can slide the forks up by about 20mm, to lower the backend you'll have to go to the expense of a new shock.


__________________________________________________
1983 K100 naked upgraded to K100LT spec after spending time as an RS and an RT
1987 K100RT
Others...
1978 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, 1979 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,1993 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California
2020 Royal Enfield Bullet 500
    

Born Again Eccentric

Born Again Eccentric
Life time member
Life time member
k wrote:Are there downsides to lowering a K?
With the back end lowered, you'll have more trouble getting the bike on the centre stand (without herculean efforts) - if you go too low, you'll also find that a little camber on the road side will make the bike sit more upright on the side stand (and therefore be more likely to topple to the right). I found out both these issues when my old nivomat shock gave up the ghost and went flat on me during a camping weekend in Ireland and again (with a RAM shock fitted) when I got a rear tyre puncture on a day ride out to Wales.


__________________________________________________
What's the Bottom Line on Lowering a K100? Uk-log10 What's the Bottom Line on Lowering a K100? Sco-lo15
                              Paul  What's the Bottom Line on Lowering a K100? 905546712

"Heidi" K100LT 1991 (Grey) (VIN 0190172 Engine No. 104EB 2590 2213) - 5th owner. January 2014 (34,000 - 61,000 miles and counting....)
"Gretel" K100LT 1989 (Silver Grey) (VIN 0177324 Engine No. 104EA 2789 2211) - 4th+ owner. September 2015 (58,500miles and counting....). Cat C Insurance write-off rebuild Feb 17
"Donor" K100LT 1990 (Red)  (VIN 0178091 Engine No. 4489 2024) - 6th & final owner (crash write-off now donor bike).   June 2012 (73,000 miles) to November 2013 (89,500 miles)
    

92KK 84WW Olaf

avatar
Life time member
Life time member
I was in the position of needing a new rear shock and considering I had an Ikon on the LT and had already swapped my shock with the RS I decided a new one was best option.

So my new one was a YSS and it dropped the rear about 15mm. Tyres I changed too over time and use 140/80 on the rear which is 5mm lower than 130/90, giving me about 20mm drop on the rear axle point. Fork stanchions you can pull up by anything up to about 15mm. Due to accident damage I changed the stand assembly to a later one but it needs all my weight to get it onto the centre stand. The end result is I can flat foot both feet when stopped and that makes a big difference.

Having been able to compare the LT and RT I found the RT much better to manage and to handle, feels quite nimble if such a word can be applied to a K. I haven't bothered with low seat options and not sure any of the above changes would be worth doing for the sake of it. However they cost me nothing so I was happy with the outcome.

Use of rear brake is very effective in tight curves like roundabouts and turns, really helps the bike to fall into the turn. Ks have a good weight distribution on the rear at low speeds and can take reasonable rear wheel braking but as always make sure to read the road surfaces well for diesel and grit.

Now last week I had another look at the LT and realised the rear shock is actually a genuine Koni and not an Ikon so I will get it rebuilt.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011157 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 58,200 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 51,800 miles.
1983 K100RS 0004449 Odette R100 colours 58,000 miles. Sprint fairing now 63,390 miles

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

Sponsored content


    

View previous topic View next topic Back to top  Message [Page 1 of 1]

Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum