BMW K bikes (Bricks)


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duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
To fix the typical leaky lower left seam from tanks that have sat for years.

Here's an example:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jf1Q8DJ-Awg


I'm guessing this would probably require a repaint since nearby paint wouldn't hold up under those temps but considering that a new tank from BMW is $1,000+ . . . 

I'm considering trying some of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-1-6-2-2-4-3-2mm-Aluminum-Magnesium-Low-Temperature-Welding-Brazing-Rod-/112306475331?var=&hash=item1a25fcd143:m:m7vIZQxNff1T-SWUsaGHD_g


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

charlie99

charlie99
VIP
VIP
hmm  amazing product

I just wonder ...in the video the process utilizes the heat carried by the base stock

my question is. the aluminium tank is relatively thin and likely prone to cooling rather quickly or overheating in spots

would someone need really good skills to effect a repair on the tank ?

just askin !!

looks a winner product for our tanks indeed


__________________________________________________
cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%O
'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
1987 k100rs ########   "Red"  - (red sports rs TWB style )
1989 K100rt #009637   "Black Betty"  (naked rt ala Nigel , now sporting an rs main fairing )
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
There are demo videos arund that show the rods being used to fill a 2cm hole in a beer can.  I can't think of much thinner aluminum than that.


__________________________________________________
Present: 1991 K100RS "Moby Brick Too"
 
Past:
1994 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
1988 K100RS SE "Special Ed"
1994 K75S "Cheetos"
1992 K100RS "Moby Brick" R.I.P.
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

duck

duck
Life time member
Life time member
Point-Seven-five wrote:There are demo videos arund that show the rods being used to fill a 2cm hole in a beer can.  I can't think of much thinner aluminum than that.

What about aluminum foil?


(Sorry, couldn't resist.)


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

charlie99

charlie99
VIP
VIP
wow !!!


__________________________________________________
cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%O
'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
1987 k100rs ########   "Red"  - (red sports rs TWB style )
1989 K100rt #009637   "Black Betty"  (naked rt ala Nigel , now sporting an rs main fairing )
    

critter

critter
active member
active member
bit of info if trying to weld tank be it metal or alloy run a hose or place  inlet or filler hole over tail pipe of petrol car and run for few mins till you can see water vapor form will make tank not a bomb carbon monoxide kills the petrol fumes.also to get alloy to right temp you can use a small piece timber like match and wipe over heated spot till it blackens temp will be around 700f or if can get soot from oxy flame and heat till dissapear is correct temp also.

    

brickrider2

brickrider2
Life time member
Life time member
Alumiweld or some such trade mark has been around for decades.  I've personally seen demos of those rods' use welding (soldering, actually) irrigation pipe.  I've often wondered why K-bike owners rely on other fixes for leaky tanks. The Alumiweld process looks simple enough.  I've never tried to repair a tank myself because I've never had the need, but I have a collection of those rods in my tool chest in the event I need them.

    

MartinW

MartinW
Life time member
Life time member
I've tried the aluminium solder, it's very tricky to use. The temperature is critical, too little heat and it blobs and doesn't take well. Too much and you blow holes, I have  a son in law who used to do specialist welding and I'm going to try and get him to show me how. I'll report if I find any tricks.
Regards Martin.

    

Gaz

Gaz
Life time member
Life time member
I've had both of my K bike tanks leak at the low point on both sides over the last 3-4 years and all have been welded rather than use any sealant/repair goo.
The DIY rods are interesting and I have some and have played with trying to repair coke cans etc. but decided it was too risky for me to try on my tanks. I just inquired around various engineering fabrication shops and quickly identified a couple who did aluminium welding as part of their normal services.

My last repair on my K1100 tank cost me $30 at a local Maitland shop that I was put onto by Rickmeister. So at that price why risk messing with it myself. As far as the explosive risk goes, both shops that have welded my tanks have steam cleaned the tank then let it air dry before working on it. Naturally I removed all the innards myself.

As mentioned above, the downside is that the paint work around the weld is damaged and has to be rubbed back and repainted (I must get around to painting that little white patch on the left side of my K1100 tank).

Cheers


__________________________________________________
Gaz
1990 K75 6427509; 1987 R80G/S PD 6292136; 2010 G650GS ZW13381; 95 K1100LT 0232224
    

Rick G

Rick G
admin
admin
TIG is a better bet because the heat does not get to spread very much, low heat is slow heat and will spread right across the tank and damage far bigger area.
I repaired a few tanks recently with TIG and one had 7 holes, on all of them the paint was easily repaired with a small touch up.  I have used the low heat method and it isn't very friendly to the paint.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1999 K1100 LT with a Big Block 1200
    

critter

critter
active member
active member
being a panelbeater and painter last 45 years both low and hot welding methods going to stuff paint for around 90 dollars au you can buy sealler that works fine for pinholes and do it yourself so there are options other than welding soft or tig.

    

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