After Finland beat Canada in the ice hockey world champs final on Sunday... I have managed to get back to my K-project.

I have two small problems, one being that I am doing this basically from the back of the garden, the other is that I also want to be able to ride the bike whilst working on it. Riding period here in Finland is very condensed and we only get abt 2-3 months of good riding weather.

So, I have taken off pretty much everything I can, and put on temp head lights, indicators etc to keep it legal and on the road. I have also ordered some bits like a new exhaust system, fuel injectors and K1200 wheels (thanks to instructions from the forum) that I can put on without completely taking it apart and still ride it. Then when the winter comes I am hoping I have majority of bits I need and can do all the painting etc customising. Thats the plan...

So...I started changing the oil and filter today. To my frustration, the oil drain plug / screw hex was so badly rounded I could not unscrew it. I drained the oil via the filter hole so thats ok, but I am left with a bum drain plug. As its a back of the garden job I cant tinker too much with the screw, so the next time I change the oil / possibly take the engine off for paints, should I just take the oil pan off and get a look at it, or take it to a machinist etc?

On a side note, as I was fiddling with the drain screw after I drained the oil, I managed to dip the side of my head in the oil collector bucket...not sure if I have washed my hair with w/up liquid before!

You really don't need to worry about the drain plug.  I change the filter every time I change the oil and don't bother with using the drain plug.

You don't need to change the oil filter every time (okay, some of us do and some of us do it every second oil change ) but as Duck says, dropping the oil through the filter sump is the fastest way to drain it. You don't need to take the sump off completely. Chances are the sump will be glued to the engine pan. Wind the screws out about half way, the tap the filter sump with a hammer on the end of a long screwdriver and make sure you have a large drain pan because the oil will come out like the proverbial waterfall.

Wow, that sounds like a prescription for a real mess.  
I can hardly wait for the step-by-step instructions for renewing the transmission oil. 

brickrider2 wrote:Wow, that sounds like a prescription for a real mess.  
I can hardly wait for the step-by-step instructions for renewing the transmission oil. 

When you drain the transmission gear oil it's a good idea to use some foil to channel it away from the center stand.  If you don't then when it gets to the last 0.1 liter the stream likes to cling to the center stand and make a nice puddle on the floor.

I don't have an engine handy to check, but I believe the drain plug extends several mm from the oil pan.  It may be possible to get the second most valuable tool(after a large hammer), Vise Grips, clamped on to unscrew the drain plug.  I know the plug extends enough to make everything rock when supporting the bike on a block under the oil pan.

When screwed in the top of the drain plug only extends a few mm beyond the fins on the sump plate.  I think you'd be hard-pressed to get Vise-Grips on it.

You could try either a Torx bit or EZ-Out on the stripped Allen hole.

brickrider2 wrote:Wow, that sounds like a prescription for a real mess.  
I can hardly wait for the step-by-step instructions for renewing the transmission oil. 

There is a trick to it. If you only just wind one screw out and wind the other two a couple of threads out, you can direct the oil where you want it to go without triggering an oilfall.

Get some EZ-Outs.

I had a stripped rear disc brake retaining bolt. A lot of surface area and only a 5mm allen key.

Drilled it out to be able to use the bigger EZ-out tools. Secured it into place with a whack from a hammer.

Then it came straight out. 

Mind you, hitting it with a hammer (not too hard) often jars a stuck fastener (hairline fracture in the tread?) or helps to bed the tool in (eg screwdriver, allen keys etc)

You'll get it

G

This is more of a comment than a question but comments welcome: I ordered and received a new exhaust (MAC 4 into 1 + can) which I got from eBay in the US. I asked the seller about mods vs standard fitting before I placed the order and the response was "it all fits standard no mods". Well...after paying a hefty customs fee I started fitting it in. A few things happened:

The gasket cylinder bolt holes were 3mm closer together than the standard (63mm vs 66m by my mesurement). This is not a big issue, I can work this with a file or similar. The pipe tube itself is 2mm narrower than the standard (37mm vs 39mm). Not big issues, but I am a bit worried about the seal ring. The standard copper ring is obviously bigger in diameter (40mm?), and I havent yet tried it on with the new pipe to see if its an issue. I was thinking about cutting some gasket sheet material around the ring, but havent found anything that will take the heat. What about exhaust mounting paste, or some sort of copper silicone gasket sealant? 

Also the can support mounting does not align at all with the rear set holeys...so more to think about.

Just guessing but it might be the exhaust for a 2 valve K100RS, not a 4 valve.

Pictures?

Copper ring part # ?

volador wrote:Copper ring part # ?

This is what I assume is the original part # 11 62 7 662 083

There was no seal in when I dismantled the original exhaust...

duck wrote:Just guessing but it might be the exhaust for a 2 valve K100RS, not a 4 valve.

Pictures?

Heres the exhaust...or what picture were you after?

I managed to file / grind the bolt holes with a drillbit, so now it at least fits in place. Unfortunately, as the pipe diameter is as explained narrower, its leaking exhaust from the cylinder / gasket fitting. It needs a good fitting seal, which I will have to fiddle with.

When I look at the K100 MAC exhausts on Ebay they are for 2 valve Ks, not 4 valve Ks.

It says 86-91 because the 2 valve K100LTs were produced through 1991.

As for the leaking that may be because the header doesn't go far enough into the bottom of the head.  If that is the case then adding more gasket rings might solve the issue.

It's odd that a 2v exhaust won't fit a 4v engine.  I replaced a cracked K100RS4V exhaust with an early K100 2v exhaust and the only issues were the alignment at the rear mount and the centerstand.  Even with that, it only took a little fiddling to get the mount to line up.  The connections at the head were identical.

Try some Heat-Wrap Tape and Permatex Ultra Copper sealant

1. slightly flatten out the copper gasket in a vise or in-between 2 pieces of flat metal and a vise
2. put Heat-Wrap Tape around the header tip and fold tape over to build up the sidewall
3. apply bead of Permatex Ultra Copper sealant to the header tip/tape and gaskets
4. put everything together finger tighten the nuts
5. let sit 12-24hrs for the Permatex to cure
6. final tighten to torque spec

thanks, thats good. I didnt think about the heat wrap...also, as I could not get my hands on original seal rings, I applied some inventiveness (piccie). This also allows me to make the ring any size required. The heat wrap would make the seal more tight. Anyone used mounting paste before, is it easy to scrape off?

The OEM crush exhaust gasket when slightly flattend OD=40mm ID=32mm

Use the OEM gaskets with some sealant that should solve the leaking

Replace the OEM stud mounting nuts with Stainless Steel or Monel nuts
Apply copper anti-seize to mounting studs




If you can not get OEM gaskets some parts vendor, Honda/Yamaha/Kawy/Suzuki/etc... probably has something that will match closely