Hi everyone,

I have recently purchased my first K100 (usual ride RnineT Scrambler) that needed some love - she’s a “Madison Silver” 12/83 RS. It was destined to most likely become another cafe racer

Hopefully I’ll be using some of the great info available on here

Regards

Welcome...I have a 12/83 K100RS too.

I never intended having one, its awesome and you will love it.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Welcome...I have a 12/83 K100RS too.

I never intended having one, its awesome and you will love it.

Thanks! Looking forward to bonding with her.

My VIN: 0012116, not too many away from yours...

If you look on the cam cover on the left side you will see two small allen bolts ['engineering screws'] near no 4 cylinder, on on the upper [intake] cam cover and the other on the lower cover near where your toes rest...hopefully. My engine is 48/83 and yours should be close.

If you have these you will be more than a little surprised at the turn of speed. 

Early ones like this have a few quirks...push button opening of the gas tank cap....brake calipers are different and you need early repair kits which are not easy to come by- worth laying in a set of the later ones. 

There are comments on the use of unleaded gas in these engines so keep an eye out on that one. I haven't noticed anything amiss so fat but have only put 4k miles on it since I got it with 29k miles.

I broke the clutch cable a month ago and have a spare. One advice I always put a new clutch cable in a K when I get one, just hadn't done it with this one when it snapped but I had the spare and spare bikes so its still parked.

I have done a lot to it, brake pads, brake caliper repairs, both master cylinders, full service, tyres, wheels, some hoses, heat shield, indicator unit, K1100 stand assembly and still needs gear position indicator switch. Nothing I didn't figure on when I got it. PO had it in a boat shed for 17 years....first owner had it 18 years.

This might be useful

http://largiader.com/k75/khistory.html

Greetings from north of Bris. The amount of Brick riders is growing, plenty of advice and help, both north and southside. Where in Bris are you??
Regards Martin.

Welcome StandardK

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:If you look on the cam cover on the left side you will see two small allen bolts ['engineering screws'] near no 4 cylinder, on on the upper [intake] cam cover and the other on the lower cover near where your toes rest...hopefully. My engine is 48/83 and yours should be close.

If you have these you will be more than a little surprised at the turn of speed. 

Early ones like this have a few quirks...push button opening of the gas tank cap....brake calipers are different and you need early repair kits which are not easy to come by- worth laying in a set of the later ones. 

There are comments on the use of unleaded gas in these engines so keep an eye out on that one. I haven't noticed anything amiss so fat but have only put 4k miles on it since I got it with 29k miles.

I broke the clutch cable a month ago and have a spare. One advice I always put a new clutch cable in a K when I get one, just hadn't done it with this one when it snapped but I had the spare and spare bikes so its still parked.

I have done a lot to it, brake pads, brake caliper repairs, both master cylinders, full service, tyres, wheels, some hoses, heat shield, indicator unit, K1100 stand assembly and still needs gear position indicator switch. Nothing I didn't figure on when I got it. PO had it in a boat shed for 17 years....first owner had it 18 years.

This might be useful

http://largiader.com/k75/khistory.html

Sound advice, much appreciated! I’ll have to do some detective work.

MartinW wrote:Greetings from north of Bris. The amount of Brick riders is growing, plenty of advice and help, both north and southside. Where in Bris are you??
Regards Martin.

Hi thanks mate, Northside - Over Stafford way.

Arlina wrote:Welcome StandardK

Thanks!

Woo hoo 

Another Brisbane rider  

welcome aboard

Matthew-Brisbane wrote:Woo hoo 

Another Brisbane rider  

Damn straight! 

charlie99 wrote:welcome aboard

Thanks

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:If you look on the cam cover on the left side you will see two small allen bolts ['engineering screws'] near no 4 cylinder, on on the upper [intake] cam cover and the other on the lower cover near where your toes rest...hopefully. My engine is 48/83 and yours should be close.

If you have these you will be more than a little surprised at the turn of speed. 

The upper & lower bolts?

Welkom SK.

TacKler wrote:Welkom SK.

Thanks

StandardK wrote:

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:If you look on the cam cover on the left side you will see two small allen bolts ['engineering screws'] near no 4 cylinder, on on the upper [intake] cam cover and the other on the lower cover near where your toes rest...hopefully. My engine is 48/83 and yours should be close.

If you have these you will be more than a little surprised at the turn of speed. 

The upper & lower bolts?

That's them.....you got one of the treasured early ones.....enjoy it.

Std what is it's current state? Is it running? If not there are a few things you should check clean or replace before attempting to start. Everything in and outside side the fuel tank should be checked. Fuel lines can harden and disintegrate, fuel filter can block up, fuel pump damper (mount) can turn to Vegemite, fuel rail can have internal corrosion, lower portion of the fuel tank can suffer from corrosion. This once used to be a really expensive fix in OZ the submersible fuel line once was $100.00 a Mt can be obtained locally $17.00 Au expensive fuel pumps can be had for $37.00Au. Rear master cylinders can be had for $15.00 Au. These are just a small example so it's better to ask the local guys before committing to expensive OEM parts and tools. There are a group of us that share knowledge, resources, tools and rides and you are welcome to join and it's free to ask questions.
Regards Martin.

Welcome to the asylum
I'm out Ipswich way.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote: There are comments on the use of unleaded gas in these engines so keep an eye out on that one. I haven't noticed anything amiss so fat but have only put 4k miles on it since I got it with 29k miles.

They don't have hardened valve seats like the later models. At 4C in this Brick-related section of his website, Snowbum recommends checking and adjusting the valve clearances more often than is recommended for the later models. BobT sums up his view here.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:


That's them.....you got one of the treasured early ones.....enjoy it.

Excellent!

Is there much of a difference between the very early ones? Due to cam profile or something?

MartinW wrote:Std what is it's current state? Is it running?

Hi Martin,

She sure is - i’ve had it running a few times & ridden her round the block. It’ll need going through top to bottom, the tank appears clean at least but I’ll be doing the pump, damper, lines etc. The cooling system appears ok, brakes do work, but everything needs a good going over. 

Thanks for the tip regarding the parts cost - looks like most bits are quite affordable apart from the damper? I’ll be scouring the forum & asking plenty of questions over the next year i imagine!

Pegasus wrote:Welcome to the asylum
I'm out Ipswich way.

Thanks Pegasus - we may well cross paths at some stage...I do the esk/fernvale/crows nest loop out your way fairly regularly.

Laitch wrote:

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote: There are comments on the use of unleaded gas in these engines so keep an eye out on that one. I haven't noticed anything amiss so fat but have only put 4k miles on it since I got it with 29k miles.

They don't have hardened valve seats like the later models. At 4C in this Brick-related section of his website, Snowbum recommends checking and adjusting the valve clearances more often than is recommended for the later models. BobT sums up his view here.

Ok thanks Laitch- i was planning on using some valve saver stuff per tank once she’s up & running, i’ll be checking the valves too.

It would be a good idea to change all the fluids, brake, forks, coolant, drive train, engine. Check the valve clearance which rarely requires adjustment. Once serviced and back up and running they are virtually bullet proof if maintained. The worst thing you can do with a Brick is not ride it, they do not like sitting.
Regards Martin.

Welcome 

I'll have to keep an eye out for your avatar to find more differences between the early model and your early early model.

MartinW wrote:It would be a good idea to change all the fluids, brake, forks, coolant, drive train, engine. Check the valve clearance which rarely requires adjustment. Once serviced and back up and running they are virtually bullet proof if maintained. The worst thing you can do with a Brick is not ride it, they do not like sitting.
Regards Martin.

Yup, agreed on all points. The forks/seals look ok but I’ll do the oil at least, probably best to put a seal kit in too i’m guessing.

daveyson wrote:Welcome 

I'll have to keep an eye out for your avatar to find more differences between the early model and your early early model.

I certainly have no idea, brick-ignorant at this current time!

Welcome