SMD please!  It is sooooo much easier to build, debug, and correct than through hole.

K-diag needs an older PC with 9-pin serial and maodern laptops lack a traditional RS232 port. Is there a solution using USB?

SMD please!  It is sooooo much easier to build, debug, and correct than through hole.

you're kidding me?

RS232 is never a problem! I use a Z-TEC USB-Serial Cable to test in WIndows or Linux! (works out of the box, without manualy instaling anything!)
So, it is not the truth, that newer PC/Laptop/Netbook lack of..


Have a look at here... it is about 3 Bucks only

nods head ...at 61

have been using usb to serial adaptors for years

part of my issue with 232 has always been the programing of our "in house" end devices (yes old sckool tech ) and the timings for appropriate handshakes ...so have and still use an old lappy (1999)  with win98 ...believe it or not ...the hardware layer to application is far better than later os's which tend to buffer the ports far too much ..which removes some of the critical timings and level detections (application dependant )

just a note ....if at all possible ...do a bit of homework and try to get an adaptor that uses the lower port numbers ie 1-4 by default     3 or 4 being the highest that is usually mapped (and most desireable ) in many older devices and apps ...there are quite a few out there that start way above that ie 6 and higher . generally ports 1 and 2 are already mapped, if your using a conventional desktop with an older than 6 year mother board ...unless you can find one of those tech friendly ones .

also note that many later usb adaptors do not really comply with true rs232 ...its something like 232, in protocol all ok  ..but the signals lack real voltage swing required for "distance"  especially and usually little if any negative voltage swing at all ...so in those cases, proper matching of pairs used can become quite critical to performance ... there are a lot of "pretender" adaptors out there .

ill take 61 s advise for a suggested adaptor

I use Carsoft 6.2 to interogate the computers in my 1993 BMW 730iL and for the cars that have the round 19 pin connector rather than the OBD2 plug we need a parallel port and not a simulated lead to a USB. IT just wont work any other way.

I reworked the original spreadsheet to be more versatile.
What if I change the final drive, put a bigger tire and put a K100rs 4V gear box on a K100rt? Well this spreadsheet will tell you.

Now you can select:
- Tire size
- Final drive ratio
- Miles or Kms/h
Since there is some VBA programming, you will have to enable editing to run it.
Here is a snapshot of the file:

The file can be downloaded HERE
Let me know if you find errors.

CF

Bert,

Your spreadsheet is not operational at all under Excel 2011 for Mac.  The radio buttons, and pull down menus just get highlighted as if they are images when I click on them.  I have enabled editing and macros when the workbook is opened.

Screenshot of VBA editor showing scripting:

Rob,

Here is the original XLSM format. Please dowload it and see if it's working on Mac.

Thanks,

Bert

Tried opening the xlsm file in Excel 2011 for Mac.  Produces an error dialog on opening "This workbook includes content that is not supported by Excel for Mac 2011.  * ActiveX".  I think you're choosing widgets for your buttons that are implemented using ActiveX controls.  Unfortunately, ActiveX is not cross-platform compatible and has been divergent since the port of Office to Mac OSX.  So, this workbook is not presently compatible with Mac, and will only run properly on Windows.  Too bad that Microsoft has poor support of programming environments on Mac.

That's right
Office on Mac is terrible... my son told me already...

Maybe we've another Soluton... writing with Bert...

Bert - save as Workbook for Excel '97. Rob - what version of Office do you have? Sounds like Bert may be using a later version e.g. 2013 or 2015.

Dai wrote:Bert - save as Workbook for Excel '97. Rob - what version of Office do you have? Sounds like Bert may be using a later version e.g. 2013 or 2015.

The sheet is saved in Excel 97!
As Rob said, the problem is that Office for Mac doesn't support activeX.
I have a new version (unfinished) tested and working on the Mac.
I simply have to use a different type of controls for the pull down menus and radio buttons.

Hi,
Gears and final drive is integrated in K-DIAG.
Revolution is calculated from Speed and typical Gears from selected Model.
It is possible to select different final drives and Gear at runtime to see changes in rev.

http://www.mediafire.com/download/fh63n0nqnc1w70d/K-DIAG.zip

six1 wrote:Hi,
Gears and final drive is integrated in K-DIAG.
Revolution is calculated from Speed and typical Gears from selected Model.
It is possible to select different final drives and Gear at runtime to see changes in rev.

http://www.mediafire.com/download/fh63n0nqnc1w70d/K-DIAG.zip

Hi Six1.
Could you make a Linux version of this as you did with Karamba?
Will be glad to test and give response
/jens

Linux is already on board

Download the zip...

Start "K-DIAG.exe" in Windows System

Start "K-DIAG" in Linux System

maybe, you have to set the right permissions for "K-DIAG" (executable) first!

six1 wrote:Linux is already on board

Download the zip...

Start "K-DIAG.exe" in Windows System

Start "K-DIAG" in Linux System

maybe, you have to set the right permissions for "K-DIAG" (executable) first!

Six1 one you're fantastic.
It's seldom that a Linux version is released at the same time as the Windoze version.

Great work

Hey great members,

With all the effort that Michael has put on the K-diag software, I believe that we should at least help him to translate the latest part of the K-Diag software.

Anybody up to the challenge?

Oh by the way, in only a couple of weeks, Michael (Sixt1) earned the VIP status. Only 4 others members have earned this for exceptional support to the community.

Can someone with a 4V-K100, K1 or K1100 please confirm the shape and size of the ABS diagnostic connector on the harness.  

Does it have this pin shape?


Are the contacts inside the housing female sockets or male pins?

Is the distance between pins (centre to centre) 0.25" (6.35mm)?

Thanks.

Yes, female.

They are female and 5.30mm centres. The width of the front excluding the clips is 16mm.

As Duck has said the terminals are female. The photos below are off my K1100. I thought the cover piece might give a better view of the profile than the plug itself. Pins centre to centre are 5 mm.





Sorry I just noticed I am holding them reversed to each other in the two photos.

Cheers


Edit: Rick G is more accurate and quicker than me.

Hi,
years ago, i contacted BMW/Germany to get Infos about the blue, empty Connector housing.
It was a special Part, only produced for BMW. There are NO (0) Parts on Stock, all over the world.

Try these Pin, to stick into the blue housing:

Pins for the diagnsotic connector:

HELLA B71
0,75-1,5 mm2
d 1,6mm

8KW 054 945-003

maybe, the Hella pins are to short... try it out.


BMW did have the pin's also...

Part #8 or #9
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/de/showparts?id=4291-EUR---E28-BMW-524d&diagId=61_1806

Crazy Frog wrote:Hey great members,

With all the effort that Michael has put on the K-diag software, I believe that we should at least help him to translate the latest part of the K-Diag software.

Anybody up to the challenge?

Oh by the way, in only a couple of weeks, Michael (Sixt1) earned the VIP status. Only 4 others members have earned this for exceptional support to the community.

marvellous news





congrats six 1

I really do not know what I do to deserve this
In such projects i have much fun and when I see, that others have interests in mind, it is even more fun

so i'm really glad, with or without vip. But thanks for that great honor!

Congratulations Michael.  Well done.

RicK G wrote:Congratulations Michael.  Well done.

+1

Hi Inge,
you are from Norway! Just contacted my friend in Norway (Roy) to translate K-DIAG Files to norge

It's on the way...

Michael,

In order to use your excellent piece of work (Karamba software), I put side my macbook and got myself a good second hand PC (Windows 7 operating system) and downloaded and ran the programme successfully.

I found Karamba very easy to use and, having confirmed that my speedo was reading high, I removed the instrument cluster from the bike so that I could adjust the speedo potentiometer. Not the most accessible potentiometer - I guess BMW didn't expect us to be wanting to make adjustments. 

Anyway, adjustments made so that speedo reads correctly at 30, 50 & 70 mph but I note that the speedo accuracy gets increasingly worse (reading high) above 100mph. Not a problem as I wouldn't go that fast anyway would I?

The other issue I noticed was that if I set the speed slider to 10mph, my speedo showed 20mph. If I set 15mph, the speedo showed 30mph and if I set 20 mph the speedo showed 40mph. Setting 25mph using the speed select buttons or moving the slider to 25mph gave the correct reading of 25mph. Likewise, using the slider to set 60mph, I get a speedo reading of 60mph. It seems that there may be an issue with the output signal at the lower speeds.











Not a criticism - or complaint, but just to make you aware that there is something odd going on at the lower end of the scale. Has anybody else noticed this anomaly?

sounds like some distortion of the signal coming out of the ear phone socket BAE

I'm thinking the signal is clipping ....  that is the signal is developing a double waveform ....

does the laptop have what they call loudness compensation  ie added bass at lower frequencies ?  or a tone profile ie rock  classic jazz etc

I wonder if you turned the volume down a touch and tried it again , with the tone profile  set to classic ?  ie no bass boost

and do the same exact tests ?  

just thought to throw that in the mix as a possible solution

Charlie, good thinking.

Checked the sound card settings - nothing fancy selected there. Ran the test again with the cluster back on the bike- threw myself 10 left initially because all the readings were way off...then realised that the Karamba programme defaults to kph and I hadn't selected mph. Phew - thought I'd done something really bad!

With the programme set to mph (as it was when I did the test earlier), I still got the double readings at 10, 15 and 20mph and reading accurately at 25, 30, 50, 70 and 90mph. Heeding your advice, I then turned the volume down (to about half) and hey presto, that did the trick. So obvious - why didn't I think of it myself? 

Interestingly, with the speed set to 10mph, I could directly alter the speedo read out by increasing or decreasing the volume. The volume setting has no obvious effect at the higher speeds. It would be interesting to plug my sound output into an oscilloscope to see exactly what is going on but I don't have one to hand (and haven't been near one in 35 years!)

One interesting feature of the new Karamba software is that it show you what the RPM should be. (I asked Michael to include it for a very specific reason)

The relation between the RPM of the engine and speed is calculated and quite accurate.
The way to check your speedo without having to plug your computer is to put the bike on the center stand, put it in gear and compare the reading speedo/rpm with what the Karamba software gives you.
Only if you find discrepancy, you may want to plug the computer on the bike to adjust the speedo using Karamba.

The ratio speedo/rpm is a constant calculated from the engine RPM and the gearbox/final drive ratio. Going uphill or downhill doesn't affect the reading. (If you're going uphill, the speed as well as the RPM will drop and you will have to rev the RPM to maintain the original speed).
For example on a K100rt with original tires size and original final drive, at 100km/h the tachometer should indicate 3733 rpm in 5th gear what ever the riding conditions are (windy, going up or downhill, with a passenger or not......)
Even if you have a souped up engine with a turbo compressor, at 100km/h the engine will still turn a 3733rpm.
With a souped up engine, you may have to open the throttle only 1/2 of the way that you would with a factory one (more Horse Power) but this will not affect the ratio speed/rpm. Does it make sense?

Simpler explanation....
You are on a bicycle and your legs are the engine....
When you are climbing a hill you will have to put more pressure (horse power) on the pedals to maintain the same speed as when you were going on a flat surface. You don't have to pedal faster but harder if you keep the same transmission ratio.
 

ah ...that's good to hear BAE 

cheers mate

After reading this and downloading all the bits and pieces my head is swimming!

Congratulations six1 on your new 'crown'  

Thanks to everyone who made this thread such a fascinating read.  Now to do something with it.

My particular issue is: my K100RS has an MPH speedo and I live in KPH-landia.  It would be so great if I could recalibrate the speedo to read in KPH instead.  Or...perhaps I can print a new 'face' and stick it on with kilometers as the outer ring (rather hill-billyesque I admit).  Any suggestions?

PMed you Ace.  Follow that guidance I provided.

I don't think it's much help but I'll post anyways. At the links below, you'll find Photoshop files for the Tachometer dial face and the Speedometer dial face. The Speedometer dial face is in MPH but with the odometer in Km. I found it online many years ago and was related to a person who had the opposite problem to you -- KPH speedo in MPH-landia. If you are clever with Photoshop, you could change the scale on this file and print out new dials. Or you could wait for a KPH instrument cluster to come available for sale on the Internet.

Tach
Speedo

Hello!

Use a a bicycle speedo, put a red Arrow on the speedo for city speed and highway.

Cheers

robmack wrote:PMed you Ace.  Follow that guidance I provided.

I don't think it's much help but I'll post anyways.  At the links below, you'll find Photoshop files for the Tachometer dial face and the Speedometer dial face.  The Speedometer dial face is in MPH but with the odometer in Km.  I found it online many years ago and was related to a person who had the opposite problem to you -- KPH speedo in MPH-landia.  If you are clever with Photoshop, you could change the scale on this file and print out new dials.  Or you could wait for a KPH instrument cluster to come available for sale on the Internet.

Tach
Speedo

Thanks Robert!  Let's see, 10 mph would be 16.09344 kph, etc.  Yeah, just change the numbers at the outer (mph dial).  Now that would be cool!

All kidding aside, I appreciate your help and grabbed the files you uploaded.  I can handle photoshop - what to print the graphic on will be the greater challenge.

I must assume that the gearing/electronics (after all this reading about speedometers I'm still not clear on this point - is the needle ultimately gear driven or magnetic/electronic?) are set for mph.  Can Karamba change that?  And did your friend have to mess with this issue?  Don't have to answer if you're busy - I'll eventually finger it all out either way, ;-)

(Edit: glad I could edit this!  Serious brain fart there - after sleeping on it I realize that this system is non-gear driven, how else would a 60-cycle electrical field initiate a response with no other input??!)

Note: I realize that I could use Karamba to set the speedo at the different increments of 10kph, 20kph, etc. and make marks on a blank background indicating the needle positions and then use that for a template

I tried to download the program but I could not
tells me it's not ok mail.
can I download it from somewhere else?
thank you

@ Dimitris_K100: I found that the logistics of using the Karamba software with the required computer hookup to be too unwieldy in the end (although I did download the software). I just used the 'by guess and by golly' method (had to open the speedo 3X to tweak the silver calibration screw). My speedo now reads about 104kph when the GPS states my speed is 100kph - perfect for my needs. I bought a used TomTom too for about $3 so I use that anyway now. Hope that helps. All this was after replacing my mph speedo with a kph one from fleabay (I also upgraded the cluster lighting to LED). Ace

Ace Handler wrote:@ Dimitris_K100: I found that the logistics of using the Karamba software with the required computer hookup to be too unwieldy in the end (although I did download the software). I just used the 'by guess and by golly' method (had to open the speedo 3X to tweak the silver calibration screw). My speedo now reads about 104kph when the GPS states my speed is 100kph - perfect for my needs. I bought a used TomTom too for about $3 so I use that anyway now. Hope that helps. All this was after replacing my mph speedo with a kph one from fleabay (I also upgraded the cluster lighting to LED). Ace

thank you for updating

and yes I put LED better light