No worries Mate, 'I fight my own battles where and when I choose'.......
(Note John Wayne voice ;-))

well i got the bike apart today and found the spline for the final drive is shot,so i ask the profesionals (you guys) what are my options i need to renew both male and f/m i hope i don't have to get a new drive shaft and drive pinion as i may have to go see the bank manager,can i get a rebuild somewhere??

hot_seat wrote:well i got the bike apart today and found the spline for the final drive is shot,so i ask the profesionals (you guys) what are my options i need to renew both male and f/m i hope i don't have to get a new drive shaft and drive pinion as i may have to go see the bank manager,can i get a rebuild somewhere??

I am presuming this is the spline on the back end of the gearbox. If so and it is R/S then you need to either replace the gearbox or just the shaft but it is very likely that you will have to replace the drive shaft because the front spline on the shaft will most likely be worse than the shaft on the gearbox. They are designed to wear that way.

There are shafts around the ridges and gearboxes are easy to find but not usually cheap.



The rear shaft will not be too hard to get as the front shaft usually goes first and so there are more rears around from shagged gearboxes.



If you are familar with working on bikes and other like gear then there is no reason not to do it yourself but there would be quite a few mechanics that would be quite capable of rebuilding a gearbox.



It would probably be a good idea to post some photos of the bits so we can make a better assesment.



I have seen a few shafts on ebay recently but get the right one. there are 2 types a 16 spline and a 20 spline.

There's a guy in Germany that does it, but a bit far for you :-). Normally the splines in the drive shaft go at the FD end, but the intake shaft of the FD is affected as well. They wear on each other.
Cheapest option here would be to purchase a good (!) 2nd hand FD and shaft. Otherwise get the spline bush renewed on the shaft and try to get a replacement intake shaft ($$$).
How bad is it? Photos?? Sometimes they don't look good, but can be kept operational with regular inspection/greasing. How many miles do you do?? Use it for work?

look around on the net hotseat ...besides the freight ..... there always seems to be one or two around at resonable prices ...dang i forgot how many teeth on your spline ...but the 20 tooth seem to be the most available ....in any case the output shaft from the g/box is 20 tooth regardless of models .....



else have a look at motorworks they have listings of used parts



what happened to the rivets ?

@ K Freak - I think he has the 'one-part-shaft' on this early bike, which normally goes first at the aft end. He is mentioning the FD side.

@ hot-seat - you can replace one part, but will get accelerated wear as the surface the splines are contacting on is severely reduced. How's your riding style

Show us a picture how bad it is (Bike porn) and we'll comment.

Good morning to the antipodeans BTW

ReneZ wrote:@ K Freak - I think he has the 'one-part-shaft' on this early bike, which normally goes first at the aft end. He is mentioning the FD side.

Yeah some days it just doesn't pay to get outa bed.

Think I'm still dirty at having to call off the test rides because of my wrist.



I shall start again hotseat

The rear end of the drive shaft can be repaired you need an engineering shop to do it but the replacement spline can be purchased from many places including Motobins. The spline on the drive itself can't be repaired enonomicaly but usually doesn't wear near as bad as the shaft because they make them that way.

Like I said post some photos and we shall advise you. Sorry about the wrong turn.

Well the old girl is in bits ,not i have a ?? the drive shaft spline is shot both male and femal ,do i need to replace both shafts or can i send them away to be rebuild of buy stub shafts to weld on,its the final drive end of the drive shaft that is poked

sorry k freak ,didn.t see the earlier reply

Just a reminder that the 20 spline driveshafts were incorporated in to production during the 2nd month of 1986 on all K100 models starting with these VIN:
K100 0 009 326
K100RS 0 088 457
K100RT 0 091 805
K100 USA 0 031 519
K100RS USA 0 043 235
K100RT USA 0 053 958

There are a few places round that sell a weld-on stub. I tried to include Motobin's site but it wouldn't load...so go to www.motobins.co.uk and look in the K bike driveshaft section of their online catalogue. Look for part number 55552.

Motorworks offer a secondhand driveshaft for a proud price. http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=EA&SbCt=BA_15_40_EA_75&spPage=1

If you can get just the splined part for the end of the drive shaft any good drive shaft shop with a lathe set up for welding should be able to weld it on for you. I used a shop in Wiri about 10 years ago to build up 2 shafts and they did a good job. Can't remamber their name though.



Peter

This is what it would look like.

You can't repair the splines on the rear drive economically so the best thing is to repair the drive shaft if the uni joint is ok and buy another rear drive secondhand from a wrecker.

I noticed that the rear of the drive shaft has a rubber buffer of some sort ,what is that for and will it remove to weld on the spline weld on stub

If the rubber thing that is inside the shafts outer housing is what you mean then you dont need to remove it.

It is a damper to cut down on vibration and it is near impossible to get it out. I'm not quite sure how they are put together but it is held in with some mighty good glue and is the only phisical connection between the inner and outer sections. The new splines can be welded in place quite successfully without damaging it.

thanks K,another ?? those stupid low head torx screws that are on the clutch housing (stupid idea)i rounded 6 off and had to drill them out ,is there and reason i carn't replace with normal alen key heads ?

hot_seat wrote:thanks K,another ?? those stupid low head torx screws that are on the clutch housing (stupid idea)i rounded 6 off and had to drill them out ,is there and reason i carn't replace with normal alen key heads ?

Oh yeah aren't those things just delightful. You can get the low head allen bolts but they are just as good as the torx "things". Like the clutch bolts, I ended up getting hex head bolts for that.



Sometimes a good clout with a punch and hammer can change their mind but even that is not a sure thing.

With any of those low head bolts I always clean the centre before even attempting to remove them.

Those low head allen and torx bolts often has a guide hole in the bottom,
with the correct tool it won`t slip that easily.

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Inge K.

there is so much room in the back space of the bell why do they use a low profile head ??

hot_seat wrote:there is so much room in the back space of the bell why do they use a low profile head ??

Trying to get inside the head of a BMW engineer is a very scary thing to do.

It is probably best not to try and just accept the strange things they do and then work around them.

"This BMW motorbike is perfect in every vay, it is zee rider who has zee problem."
~BMW factory training technician visiting our workshop in reference to a problem we could not replicate but that the customer had complained of repeatedly.

It's not just BMWs that happens with, I remember quite a few problems with Honda and Suziki where similar things were said.

hot_seat wrote:there is so much room in the back space of the bell why do they use a low profile head ??

Perhaps they don't want to disturb the boundary layer and increase the air drag over the clutch, cause this will cause a loss of torque and power...?

Yeh and just maybe they want to conserve the earths resouces by cutting down on metal,what a great bunch they are !!!

And another ???? the engine cover over the timing chain ,on the left hand side is some sort of switch ,is that a engine cut out incase the chaine breaks or what is the little beastie i carn't find it in Haynes

hot_seat wrote:And another ???? the engine cover over the timing chain ,on the left hand side is some sort of switch ,is that a engine cut out incase the chaine breaks or what is the little beastie i carn't find it in Haynes

The only things there are temp sender if you have a temp gauge and oil pressure switch which is underneath the oil/water pump.

no this is on the timing chain cover right hand side and looks like it has some sort of pickup prox sensor off the crank sprocket and has elect wiring going who know where ,it's under a small t shaped cover ,then you can remove the timing cover

just looking again as haynes and it looks like it has something to do with the ignition rotor,how does this pickup incorporat into the sceam of things,the pickup is screwed into the timing chain cover ,can i saftely remove the cover withuot disrupting the ignition

um ....would that be the hall sensors ....ignition timing bits



best to mark it up and remove it .....you dont want to replace more electronics huh ?

theres a seal behind that whole assembly

You will need to take the hall sensors off before you remove the cover. Scribe a line across the plate and onto the alumunium surround so that you can line it up when you put it back together, pull the plate with the sensors out then remove the cup shaped thing with 3 small allen bolts. You dont need to remove the big 8mm head allen bolt in the center