good onya 88.....hope you get to ride before the weather changes

charlie99 wrote:good onya 88.....hope you get to ride before the weather changes

The only change in the weather that any of us in this area is hoping for is some warm dry weather! As soon as summer was declared, hose pipe bans were in force. Then came the torrential rain, high winds....

So I cant wait for the weather to change hehe.... mind you I have about 2 weeks worth of work to do on my K then she should be on the road...

charlie99 wrote:good onya 88.....hope you get to ride before the weather changes

Charlie, we live in Ireland. Give it half an hour and it will change!!

lol ....you guys crack me up

but i get the idea ....

Avenger GT wrote:

charlie99 wrote:good onya 88.....hope you get to ride before the weather changes

Charlie, we live in Ireland. Give it half an hour and it will change!!

Bit like Melbourne in Victoria(southern state of OZ) then Avenger, mind you it hasn't stopped raining here for 4 days. Apparently we have had about another 75mm in that time.

Hope the resto is going well 88, doing a small one myself.

Avenger GT speaks the truth! As observed by my old Dad.."We don't have seasons anymore, only weather!".

Hope your still above water Avenger GT (60mm or rain in his neck of the woods last night! ).

Thanks all for the encouragement on the rolling resto!

88

No problem with flooding 88, I live on a hill so all water flows away.

The time taken to put the bike back together is directly proportionate to the time it was apart, or so it seems. Work and other things conspired to keep me off the road but it's all fastned back together tonight ready for a test ride in the morning. Can't wait

88

woohooo !!

Well that was a rewarding experience. I was taking it very gingerly for the first few miles listening out for everything. Once had relaxed a bit I really started to enjoy the ride. and everything performed as it should.

I must say I really love the k1100 screen. The difference in noise levels around my lid is unbelievable and the width of it kept the one very heavy shower I met off my arms and shoulders. I hav'nt wired it yet but even in the position it's in I find a vast improvement in comfort levels. More sounds are reaching me as a result and I've one or two little rattles to chase down.

The timing probably needs to be advanced a smidge. The bike felt down on power and a bit more buzzy than last time but I was too busy grinning to care..



Before...



After...




The old "Bullion Brick" is as good as gold again!


Hey check out the sign in the backround. I know we're given to exaggeration as a race but that's takin the pi$$ !! Looks like we've scaled up our tiny Island to stand large amongst the nations of the world

88KE

Wow that certainly looking good

+1, welcome back on the road.

re buzzes ....the fairing , if not mounted up correctly certainly buzzes away quite a bit 88

in fact i recon it contributes to the buzzing effect .

did an emergency rebuild back on the bike the other day and the rotten thing is really buzzy ...i havent installed the washer buffers and insulators to the fairling front mount (lost one) properly ...but it did the job but wow lots of noise and certainly at a few engine speeds drives me crazy ..

good to see the bullion back on the road mate ....enjoy

Cheers guys. It's not the fairing tho' Charlie. I was uber careful with that and luckily I got a bag of fixings and screws with the k1100 fairing which really helped me get the right fastener in each place. I also used a bit of foam draught excluder on the backs of the pockets and other visible areas of contact - It sounds more tinny than plastic. A few more spins will get it identified. I'm gonna try mount the video camera and do a run through the Wicklow mountains. I'll stick it up on you tube for "y'all".

Thanks for the encouragement all
88KE

I got fed up of the side panels flapping and came up with an idea last night...



The velcro is very strong with fine hooks and eyes it came from a mate who works in I.T.- he tells me it is used to hold servers in racks (possibly Dell).

Screwed it to the stump of the broken clip with a self tapper...


it needs to be left long so you can feed it around the bar and not have it come out while putting the panel in its sockets.

It gets a real good grip on the right side because the engine mount gives something to get a grip against.

Nice cheap solution ($0)
88

cool !!

I made a bit of progress yesterday on a job that's been bugging me....replacement of the bar end weights.

I ordered a pair from motorworks as I had lost one on the road months ago but when they arrived they were without the inserts that hold them in place (about as useful as tits on a bull ). A quick follow up email informed me that they had no used and new was a special order...... I declined gracefully.

I had an idea to make something up using a concrete rawl bolt with a wedge shaped end nut and whislt rummaging in the hardware shop yesterday I came across a window/door frame fixing which looked spot on. 79 cent changed hands and I quickly retreated to the mancave.

The cut down rawl plug worked perfectly well - the flange just a tiny bit narrower than the original part. I used a tighter O ring to compensate and after taping the end to minimise expansion inside the sleeve I allowed the end screw to cut its own thread into the plastic.


Pic shows plastic replacement v's original part and only a few grams in the difference!



Whilst I had them off I decided to paint the endweights but after cleaning them off with a brass brush in the drill I got another idea....brushed alloy look. So I did the choke lever as well and lacquered them. Bling Bling


The problem now is the rest is looking shabby so I'll have to strip it soon to clean up the handlebars themselves.
88

lol ...dontcha hate that will ?

some good brainstorming ol mate

have fun !

Good stuff 88, she's looking swell as Billy connolly said there's no bad weather only the wrong clothing

Mind you do get more than your fair share of the wet stuff mate.



BIG D

I can't believe I haven't posted anything in this thread for 15 months. That doesn't mean I haven't done anything on the bike, I've just been enjoying riding it and doing basic maintenance.

I got a little unexpected bonus for christams and decided to spend it on moving the Rolling rennovation along.


Timing Chain kit, Water/Oil pump Kit and service kit. I will also be doing a full clutch spline lube and a bit of paining and cleaning as
I go in and out.

The Fenda Extenda is supplied with double sided tape and I'm dissapointed with the fit. I certainly wouldn't expect it to stay on at high speed so I will suppliment with a couple of screws or rivets.

woohoo !!

good stuff will

take your time with that oil-water pump ...that 1208 driebond is fantastic stuff for that bit
bit exy though

Ok so I lied last January about getting back on track with the maintenance/upgrades. I can wait no longer however as the impending deadline of departure for "Will and Olaf's excellent adventure" draws nigh. I have to complete a full spline lube to the clutch splines, Timing chain replacement and water/oil pump overhaul and I hoping to get the rear frame and footplates painted while they are off.



the rear frame is grotty but it's only surface rust, despite 26 winters. We don't salt our roads in winter here as much as other countries.

Didn't get too far but my helper is keen. He has turned 13 and wants to ride pillion this year so I'm making him earn it!

good to see you getting into it Will, especially with some assistance from the young fella.
hope the tail cleans up well for you, the coastal environs certainly take their toll on metals.
 My LT has spent most of its life on the coast , but hasn't suffered to the extent of yours.good luck with it all.

cheers will ...hope it all goes along fine ....with nothing unexpected

really is quite straight forward getting to the clutch ...I was amazed just how easy ..although we did do it a different way kinda .

good luck !

getting bits and pieces stripped and cleaned as the come off so as to aid reassembly. 

My previous work on welding the inside of the side stand jaws needs to be redone 


the z frames are quite alarmingly worn at the bottom...


Yep, that's engine oil...


on removing the exhaust,  Cyl 1 appears to be way rich (black soot) and the other 3 look not too bad to me, light grey deposits in pipe. any idea why they might differ so much?

"Cyl 1 appears to be way rich (blck soot) and the other 3 look not too bad to me light grey deposit in pipe. any idea why they might differ so much?"

Injector 1 not closing completly.........?

I'm running out of time to get the bike ready for the trip to France with Olaf. Engine main seal or O ring is leaking badly and I've come across two problems getting in there:

i) The right side swing arm pivot won't come out (the one with the 3 bolts in the cover plate) and I don't a have a slide hammer just a vice grip on a bolt threaded through the plate. Any idead on how to best shift it?

ii) My drive shaft splines are so completely knackered I'm amazed I got home from the city the last day. I'm going to pull the  one from the K75 for the purposes of the trip but should I use the K75 rear diff too and suffer slightly higher revs?



Your thoughts please....

I has a 3.2 ratio in my K100 for about 12 months and it did increase the fuel consumption but not a great deal and it used to really get up and go when you kicked in the arse.

Right pivot: Tap a flat screw driver in from the side around the perimeter. They can be stubborn but will come out with patience.

wot he said 

but use two ...and lever the assembly out slowly ...

some light wet and dry might be needed to clean up the surfaces of the "pin" and socket to get it back in .

I guess the aluminium grows a little with contamination on the surface of often rarely used- maintained parts

crikey that spline is not far off letting go will

stick the k75 diff and shaft on mate ...and enjoy the trip

I'm with Charlie, just transfer the rear end and don't worry, have fun :-) Now that seal is one you want to deal with. Why would you want to remove the swingarm? Just leave it in place. I have done engine seal replacements without removing the swing arm, no need for that at all :-)

Got the pin out using an old wide pairing chisel in the manner suggested by Duck. The reason for getting it out is the gaitor is split. 

My pinion splines are too burred to get the shaft from the K75 onto it anyway so I had decided to go with the 75 diff. So we're back on track albeit a bit behind schedule.

Thanks for the input.

Smear a bit of copper anti-seize on the right pivot where it mates with the transmission housing to make removal easier next time.

cheers for the tips and encouragement, I'm in as far as the main seal and need parts delivered by friday. The clutch friction plate is still in tolerance but I'm going to replace it, It's not pretty in there with engine oil everywhere.

What are the toughts on reusing the clutch carrier lock nut - the manual says replace it every time. any idea why? anyone reused theirs?

Not sure why 88

I just replaced mine with a new one, but it did not make much sense.

Tighten the bejeezus out of it (I guess to seat the clutch carrier and o ring and crap) and then back it off then re-tighten to just goodly tight.

If it was to remain bejeezus tight I could understand, but when it spends its life just goodly tight then I think you could re-use the old one.

Unless you put it in a safe place and are forced to buy a new one.

The nut has 2 narrow cuts about 1/3 of the way across it just give the nut a tap with a FBH and gently close up those slots and it is ready to use again.

If I interpret the FBH correctly Rick it means a persuader of a larger variety! I noticed the slots alright wondered what they were about. Normal Torque settings ok on reuse or go a wee bit lighter?

Yes and normal torque settings are OK

yep all standard settings will

good luck mate

Well I cocked up an order somewhere and have to wai for the main seal to get here from Motorworks. Hopefully Saturday morning. Ordered a clutch plate and cable so I wont have to go in there again for a while. Meanwhile I'm progressing the service items.

here's a few pics because you seem to like that  sort of thing....

the gearbox output flange has been damaged by a heavy drop of the rear arm at some point in it's previous life:


Plugs and their corresponding exhaust ports:

Fitting bar risers kindly donated by Comber John, I was surprised by the condition of the aluminium in the top clamp:

Holy cow Will! 

If this is your idea of "light" renovation to get a bike in good shape for a jaunt down to the continent, I'd hate to see what you consider as serious work. All I can see is K bits.

Good luck with the reconstruction, hope it all comes together in time for your run with Olaf.

The problem is Paul, I hate taking it off the road as I enjoy riding it so much and I know if I do everything while I'm in there it comes back to me. I will be going for the full monty of a renno when I get the k75 done so I have something to ride.

I ended up dropping off a few of the planned jobs in order to get the bike ready for the french trip but heres a few minor things I came across on the way.

The previous muppet owner had obviously installed 2 O-rings on the main output seal:


one did the job for me!

I found a very cheap and cheerful way to align my clutch. 



Its a domestic phase tester with the clip removed and insulating tape wrapped around it until it fitted the clutch splines snugly. Worked first time!

Finally I swapped the k75c drive shaft and Final drive as the k100 ones wear completly knackered.

Not much riding done since France. Going to fit some krauser K2 panniers I scored off ebay as I'm going to be travelling 2 up with Alex more often. In future. since the back end is coming off I'm painting the rear frame (finally). 

here we go again...


Looks like my battery may be over charging....




The tank pad fell into my hand....any suggestions for adhesive for putting it back?


I've been experimenting with some vinyl wrap -

 May do the whole bike. Wach this space!

You're making me feel guilty, Will; both my frames, particularly under the seat, need a new coat of paint.

I've successfully used contact adhesive to stick that rubber on the tank.

Cheers,
Paul.

agree paul  about the glue

but might be worthwhile looking for some stuff called "shoe goo"  that stuff sticks well and very strong

will the battery discharge of electrolyte is kinda normal for longer runs ....but a good reminder to keep the fluids up to the right levels ...all too often it gets low and issues then start ...for many, I would imagine, not on their regular check list .

looking good mate

88KE wrote:the gearbox output flange has been damaged by a heavy drop of the rear arm at some point in it's previous life:

Ah! I've got one of them too. I found it today during the dreaded annual spline lube and couldn't figure out what had caused it.

just while I think about it

happy birthday Will           

Cheers Charlie. Made it through another one and added a few adventures to the book of life too!

Frame painted - now figuring how to mount the Krauser panniers I pick up from the dreaded ebay. I bought 2 sets. Actually 3  . Long story. Bottom line all were cheap and have given me loads of mounting kit. I'll have a slimline 25l for daily use (including lane filtering) and a 42l set for camping 2 up. Best of both worlds. 
https://i.servimg.com/u/f39/16/81/84/59/image12.jpg

Happy Birthdays 88, I bet the flip side of having a 75 F/D came as a bit of a surprise?? The remarkable ability to just release the clutch and be at walking pace, without having to feather the clutch, really fun.

K75cster wrote:Happy Birthdays 88, I bet the flip side of having a 75 F/D came as a bit of a surprise?? The remarkable ability to just release the clutch and be at walking pace, without having to feather the clutch, really fun.

True enough Keith. Gets up and goes to! I'm in no rush to change it back.!!