RT wrote:What I will try Charlie me old mate is chucking this thing on a heap. I spent 2 hours trying to get the chamber fitted back onto the throttle bodies. Noluck, Mr.Chivas has
offered to calm me down at the moment. This seems much more trickier than it looks.
I have read a few others' efforts but they all seemed to have more trouble with the top big airbox clamp. What am I missing? ( apart from hair and a waist, just in case the snipers are awake).

RT, Mr Chivas will not help in this case. Unless it is used to flame the area.

Please contain the laughter, but puckering is the problem I found. One little bit of that rubber ring will sit under the throttle body and just not let the damn thing sit right.

Solution is to take too long glasses of Mr Chivas, or is that 2, long glasses? you will sort it out.
but the damn things like to let a bit of the lip fold under on any one of the tb's and that will stuff you every time.

You can do it. Grasshopper we have faith.
Say after me.

ommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.


ommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.


ommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..

ommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmg this ^%$#&*^ thing is &^%^&. God damn &^&%&**^&^*&. If i ever get my hands on *&^*&^*%$$$

and before you know it you will be so pissed you wont care it did not go on and you can try again tomorrow.

next question

charlie99 wrote:dang ...i know the feeling bob ....mine were also extreemy difficult to replace ...young alby (muscleman ) did the job .....but what i could suggest is some form of slippery stuff on the insides of the rubber tubes or the outside of the plenum tubes (no not vasolene ...deteriorates rubber )....something that dries out quickly ..but wont get into the tricky bits lower down and cause damage if it does ...maybe that lanoteck stuff ...or possibly rp7 (sparingly ) maybe could help ?

They make this stuff that is really slippery, it must be made for our bikes as it only has ours and one other letter in it

when putting aircraft fuel systems together we would often use lanolin...or wool fat...although why not petroleum jelly or vaseline which is petroleum based like petrol....so if you are really concerned how about soapy water...which will evaporate soon enough.......when I raced speedway red rubber grease was applied to the car tyres in order to slip easily against others...did not harm the rubber but it never dried or dissappeared.
choices guys....suggest soapy water

Thanks gentlemen ( at least my wife thinks you all are, crawlers).
I shall attempt again this evening, having some friends over for dinner and one is very strong of hand. And of course afterwards either celebratory champagne or delusioned beers.
I'm hearing conflict re the vasoline that I used, so I should clean it all off and try one of the other suggestions, K why not or sheep wool grease. Trouble is it's been so wet, hard to catch the buggers at the moment.

RT wrote:Thanks gentlemen ( at least my wife thinks you all are, crawlers).
I shall attempt again this evening, having some friends over for dinner and one is very strong of hand. And of course afterwards either celebratory champagne or delusioned beers.
I'm hearing conflict re the vasoline that I used, so I should clean it all off and try one of the other suggestions, K why not or sheep wool grease. Trouble is it's been so wet, hard to catch the buggers at the moment.

Um forgive someone on the other end of mother earth but "sheep grease",are you pullin both my legs or is that something you guys use on a regular basis (when your lonely:suspect:)?

Lanoline it comes from sheep wool and has recently been touted as a replacement for WD40 and RP7 etc. The product is called Lanotex among others. And Its Kiwis that get lonely

Finally got somewhere with the plenum thingy.

Step 1, using a screwdriver I attached a ratchet strap to the frame and tightened it a bit, this straightened up the box, as it tends to lean backwards.



2 more ratchet type straps totally over the box, and under the engine, slowly tightened
and the whole thing just popped in.
(then I discovered that one of the clips had fallen off the throttle body rubber, so had to undo the whole thing and repeat.Some may say retesting my results is mandatory).

All good.

there has got to be a better way!!!!

lol good one rt

hate to mention it but they look like they are upside down

the bit in the middle (rubber ) between the top and bottom should not be angled like that it "should" be parallel ...could this explain why they were really hard to get on ?

MMM Charlie, that would be bad. As far as I know those bottom rubbers haven't been taken off before, I'll have to have a look at one of the other bikes sitting around here.
I'm getting close to kicking her over, if it runs, then I can test the airflow and find out what else is wrong.New S vacuum hose and airfilter already on the list.
I think my biggest trouble with this was the wiring harness seemed to be pressing down on the top of the box and not allowing it to sit straight,had to disconnect and removed a few.
Anyway, having fun again, Thanks.

By writing "kicking her over" I assume you will start her.....don't just kick her over.

16 valve looks a bit different but same principle. I replaced all the clips top and bottom with screw thread type ones and left them fully 'open' i.e. not threaded at all when I put it together then had a pig of a job getting them to catch the thread to toghtem them up. Still it was easier than trying to get the tubes on with clips in place. There just wasn't enough give to get the rubbers over the metal.

Anyway all a bit academic and quite possibly irrelevant. Glad you got it done

Moving on to the next pressing problem.


Apart from obvious camera inabilities, this is the tank connector plug, at the tank.
Amazingly it works and the fuel low light and fuel pump will work with external power. (after wires are joined of course).
2 problems, is it possible to buy a connector like that ? as I think this end needs renewing.
Secondly, the wiring harness end doesn't seem to be producing power as the pump won't run when pressing starter button, but the low fuel light works. I can see that there is a yellow/green wire next to the brown earth in the connector, this seems to be the fuel pump power, I've traced it back to a relay (swapped that over, nix, fuse is new, cleaned all the contacts on ecu, swapped it over still nix.)
As I'm an electrical novice, can someone check me here. I put the negative lead from a multi meter into the brown wire socket (on connector) and the positive lead into the yell/green socket and pressed the starter. Engine turns, no sign of voltage (set at 20v)
is this the correct method to test power?.
Also the guide says check power at pin 85 in relay, but I'm not sure how to do that.
Sorry about the questions but better to ask than fry something.
RT

RT wrote:Sorry about the questions but better to ask than fry something.
RT

no need to opolgise, RT, you know full well the guys here like any sort of a challenge.
being a bit of a novice too, I'll allow those better qualified to answer.
good luck with it

RT wrote:As I'm an electrical novice, can someone check me here.
Also the guide says check power at pin 85 in relay, but I'm not sure how to do that.
Sorry about the questions but better to ask than fry something.
RT

What the hell did you have Rick doing down there if it wasn't fixing your bike?

RT wrote:Also the guide says check power at pin 85 in relay, but I'm not sure how to do that.
Sorry about the questions but better to ask than fry something.
RT

Terminal 85 in the relay socket is the ground signal from the ignition ECU.

To check remove the relay, insert the negative test probe in terminal 85 in the
socket and the positive test probe to terminal 30....instrument set to 20V...
push the button....you should measure power for a couple seconds.

If OK...then you can check for switched power, move the positive test probe
from terminal 30 to terminal 86 and repeat the test.

If the first test fails...to verify that you got power at 30, move the negative probe
from 85 to battery negative...and keep the positive at terminal 30.
If OK, you have a problem at the signal side (ground) of the relay coil, about what
to check in that circuit...you can read in post #5 in this thread.

Thanks Inge, that'll help a lot.

Rossco, Rick G and M G were on a whirlwind tour and our weather was pretty bad. We had to huddle around the fire to keep warm, a la Norse men.


Luckily there was wine in Rick's touring bag.
Got a parcel from Munich Motorcycles today, new filters etc, all ready to attack this thing now.
Thanks for all the advice and encouragement.
RT son of RT

Gees RT. That's a bit rough. At least we let them inside the house!
I see the pup has growed up a bit. The name escapes me.
Ella?

Did you get the snake?

bob ...just looking at your picture

are here 4 wires going into that connection ?....sorry im just looking and seeing frayed bits hanging off there somewhat



you could get an after market connector for that specific connection ....which would make it ....erm non bmw ...but my senses tell me that wouldnt matter too much

look at your local car store for a 4 pin utilux connector (it will have both sides ..socket and plug ) and with some simple tools like a set of pliers you could make it good i recon .

there are farmore alternatives ...many of them sealed types as well (best choice ) but if you want to get it "on the road " the cheep option may not be dissapointing

have a look under the tank and see if the earth to the ignition computer is good ...also have a look at the under tank earth connection to frame ...i could imagine that they could corrode up a little mate ...clean it all up ...and undo the connector to the ign computer and clean them up also

good luck ol mate

rossco wrote:Gees RT. That's a bit rough. At least we let them inside the house!
I see the pup has growed up a bit. The name escapes me.
Ella?

Did you get the snake?

No he didn't Marg forgot to give it to him. Well I have to blame her, I can't blame the government for everything.

Give us one good reason why not to blame the government.

OK blame the redhead she is getting used to the idea of going down in a heap anyway.

Snake, what snake?. I've got shovels everywhere for snakes.
Pup's name is Winifred, plays a mean piano. Big white one is gravely ill, so a bit down here just at moment.

The snake (rubber) was given to me by Rossco to give to you to put up where the swallows are roosting to scare them off but Marg forgot to give it to you so its still sitting on the dash of the car.

I saw that and thought it was some sort of toy you carrry around....so you made it up the Putty alright...typical crap weather all weekend and Monday it is lovely....

Yeah we got a really good run, took just over 9 hours. Only saw about 4 other cars on the Putty and then very light traffic for the rest of the way.
The Hunter had been well up at Singleton and most of the creeks and rivers showed signs of flooding but most had receeded by the time we went through.

RT wrote:Thanks Inge, that'll help a lot.

Rossco, Rick G and M G were on a whirlwind tour and our weather was pretty bad. We had to huddle around the fire to keep warm, a la Norse men.


Luckily there was wine in Rick's touring bag.
Got a parcel from Munich Motorcycles today, new filters etc, all ready to attack this thing now.
Thanks for all the advice and encouragement.
RT son of RT

Could not have been that cold if you were wearing flip-flops and shorts.

I guess it's all relative frogy, felt cold early in the evening before the wine got opened.

yep just wearing thongs....and shorts...

Klompy,I do NOT need that image rattling around in my head.

Hi Frogy...and yet this image somehow it does not contravene the censors...personally I cannot wear them that small nor would I want to...them tasmanians are tough folk.

All tests done on the relay wiring, power coming through on cranking. I did replace the actual relay earlier just in case. So now I'm assuming that the problem is in the circuit between the relay and the frame side of the tank connector.
Can I test the fuse contacts by putting the multi meter probes in the holes and cranking?,If so, which side is earth?.

I still have no power to the frame side tank connector plug, checking as follows. Negative probe in brown wire socket, positive probe into yellow/green socket, set at 20v and crank engine. So I need to follow the trail from the relay, thinking out allowed.
Earth contacts clean and doxtitted.

Also noticed a leaky fork seal. Sigh!

A small HUZZAH moment has occurred. I ditched the old tank plug connector and studied the wires. This bike is a 91 plated LT, the wires going into the tank side connector are a different colour than those on the frame side female connector. Nice touch that.
Anyway, I now have power to the fuel pump, but have lost it to the low fuel light.
Is there anyone that can point me in the direction of a diagram indicating which hole in that connector is the power for the fuel light. I am about to completely renew the whole
plug (mostly because I discovered that you cannot undo the current one without destroying the wiring )
Facing the female connector, top left is power to the pump(green and white) top right is earth (brown), then I have a yellow and a white choice for the bottom two holes.
I would like to know which is which, and yes I have tried CF's wiring diagram but the colours don't match anything I have (colourblindness aside).

All I can say is good luck RT. My tractor doesn't have that problem as every wire on the machine is red. At least you get to have some differentiation between wires.

RT wrote:, then I have a yellow and a white choice for the bottom two holes.
I would like to know which is which, and yes I have tried CF's wiring diagram but the colours don't match anything I have (colourblindness aside).

White wire, low level warning lamp (5L), ground signal.
Yellow wire, level gauge signal, variable ground.

CF's wiring diagram shows the early version (4+7L) low level warning sensor.

RT wrote:

Under the tank is a mess. Can't figure out what this blue connector is, should I be rejoining all those wires?


I also have found 4 relays across the front wall, 3 I can identify as normal, the 4th is newish and black. There was a radio in at stage.

It looks like it goes down to the key for the alarm system. Mine ('85) is equipped for alarm, but the connector is black, not blue.

When I was young (and Lady Penelope was my dream), I was led to believe that by now we would all be the same colour, wear cool jump suits and everything would be standard fit, world wide. What happened to the writers of Flash Gordon and the Jetsons, they must have been smoking something.
Now I have to add some extra wiring to lengthen the lead to the frame, and guess what, can't buy matching colours, no brown or green/white. So the next owner is really going to freak. (hint, don't buy this bike when I've finished it.).

Thanks Inge, that is what I was after.
RT

red wire works

I was in JayCar store ordering a new plug and asked the guru there what colour earth is normally. He said green, always, but as i was leaving the shop he said no, blue, yeah blue is earth.

RT wrote:I was in JayCar store ordering a new plug and asked the guru there what colour earth is normally. He said green, always, but as i was leaving the shop he said no, blue, yeah blue is earth.

dontcha love them ...hehe !

when i did my electricery apprenticeship the green-yellow , brown and blue appliance cord standards were just being introduced to aussie ...some say to meet international standards .....yeah right !!!

just so that other folks know what we did

we declared brown as the "active".... blue as the "neutral" ...and green/yellow as the earth

which differs quite significantly ..to european standards ...crikey we do things strange down here ..dontcha recon ?

as all us "k bike" enthuisiasts know ... brown is always the earthy side reference wire

but does give a snigger everytime i hear a "electronic genius " quote the wrong things to the wrong folks ...without any background knowledge .....i love it ,,and quietly dissapear to investigate the other great things im looking for .

i must be getting old i recon ....

RT wrote:When I was young (and Lady Penelope was my dream), I was led to believe that by now we would all be the same colour, wear cool jump suits and everything would be standard fit, world wide. What happened to the writers of Flash Gordon and the Jetsons, they must have been smoking something.

RT

I thought by now we would have the roads to ourselves as everyone in a new car would be in the air and the new bikes would be like the starwars flying bikes= and here we are sometimes sitting in a lineup of cars = wher'd we go wrong= maybe I should have drooled over a cessna as a kid>>\????

A number of years ago I decided they are all live. DON'T TOUCH ANY OF THEM.
I was changing the light. Whole lot. Was an old bayonet type with the brass screws and the three wires.
Had the damn thing in my hand and was so careful not to touch any of the shiney bits.
So of course my fingers were led to the shiney bits.
Result was a perfect impression of two of the screws on the ends of a finger and a thumb.
F that hurt. More than usual (Like hangovers, getting stung by elektrikery is not a learning experience).
After falling off the chair, I picked myself up, finished the job, declared beer o'clock and all was good with the world.


Then I got a pain in my chest (38yo).

Damn that hurts. Not felt anything like that before.
Heart attack bought on by the 240v
Gave it a rub and it hurt even more. Odd.
Lifted my shirt. Crap.

When i recoilled from the shock I had stabbed myself with the screwdriver I was holding.
Hit the breastbone and made a line about 4 inches long where I had tried to kill myself.
The time had just changed to bourbon o'clock.
Grimaced as I flicked on the switch 'I fixed the light on the verandah. Was there anything else?'

Rossco, you were a bright spark!

He was really switched on that time.

Lucky he has a good grounding in electricity. He is both active and positive with it.

Well here we are approaching the shortest day of the year, and I still can't get the beast started.
So far:
I have power to the fuel pump, it works and sends fuel gushing all over the floor when you disconnect the line to the fuel rail, and push the starter. (extinguisher handy). All plugs receiving a nice jolt(new spark tester $10.00, saves more fire risk). Plugs are wet after cranking, they are dea9's if that matters. So I'm ruling out ignition firing problems, have yet to test injector pulse but plugs are wet so shouldn't be too bad.
I can't hear fuel coming back in through the return line but there is no pooling anywhere
that would indicate a bad hose/connection to the pressure regulator.
There must be something I am missing that probably is simple.

To recap I have spark, fuel and starter motor cranks. The only other info is that the fairing is off and all lights etc are connected and working in bundles loose, starting with the clutch lever pulled.

Remembering I have had trouble getting the air tubes back onto the plenum, but thought that would just cause rough running if extra air was getting in.

Anything similar come to mind please?
RT

RT wrote:I can't hear fuel coming back in through the return line but there is no pooling anywhere
that would indicate a bad hose/connection to the pressure regulator.

Open the fuel cap and have a look when cranking. You should at least see some splashes in the tank from the returning fuel.
I know it is not much but that is all I got.

Thanks mate did that and there is a fuel stream coming back.
Just ran through CF's trouble shooting guide and seems the only thing I haven't confirmed is a pulse and stream through the injectors (which may be stuffed, but have some goodies coming from Blakey, that wonderful Queenslander, except for tomorrow night).
So I can borrow some l e d pulse testers and carry on from there, but first there is a red wine fog coming in from the coast tonight.

bob ....here we go again ....

exchange that temp sensor (which measured good after all )

undo the under seat computer plug and clean up ALL the contacts ...taking particular note of the pin "10" conection (temp sensor ) if either of these is faulty this will cause a real rich mix

you should have d7ea ea plugs not d9ea

clean up the electrical plugs to the injectors

take out the air cleaner for the moment

check the electrical connections from the hall sensors (under he tank ....sorry about that ...they need to be scrupiously clean ...5 pin connection ?)

make sure that the breather tube from the crankcase to the plenum is good ....and that you have the oil filler cap on and done up tight on the rhs crankcase

test the cables from each plug top to coil ...make sure none on them measure more than 6000 ohms (6.0 k ) each on the 20k range of your multi meter they should be around 4k or 5 k ......

make sure you have the thimbles on the plugs as well

measure both coils on the high tension side ...they should both read about 10 k - 12 k each ....no more itf they do you will have a week spark

all being ok

disconnect the fuel pump ....and with the plugs OUT .....open the throttle wide open and crank for 20 or so seconds,but only if you are sure the battery has a good charge in it ...(might be an idea to charge the battery for 4 hours before hand )........this will evacuate most of the rich fuel mix from the cylinders .... after wards ...reinstall the plugs and make sure that they are done up and connected properly

after you are sure that the plugs are clean or new and installed properly and maybe you might get a bit of a bang happening .

then install the plug to the fuel pump and try again .

good luck mate

Have you got fresh fuel in it even a small amount of stale fuel will cause the whole lot to go bad and not fire.
If you have not put fresh fuel in get rid of all the fuel and wash the tank with fresh petrol and then with metho and let it dry in the sun if you have any there and vacuum all the lose garbage out and then put fresh fuel in.
Stale fuel is real bad news and the more modern stuff can go rotten in a couple of months.

It's funny what you miss when you are looking.

Unless I'm mistaken that is an errant earth, going to where I wonder? Anyone know?.

Ok getting annoyed now.
So I was wondering if I can swap the ECU harness from my
09/84 RT to this bike, being an 07/90 LT. It looks the same.
Vin WB1050603L0 but don't want to fry anything.