No worries Rick. I've got a free morning tomorrow and it looks like the rain has stopped, so I might take the bike for a run over to the bm shop and see if he's got one.

I am doing a run down to Guyra tomorrow to see Smithy and see how the red rocket is going and Marg (wife) is taking the K75 to show his wife as she is apparently thinking bike.

Have good run, the weather is looking a lot better today.

I got an airbox clip from the bm shop. He also has a couple of non abs front disks, just like mine, on a bike being wrecked. He wants $110 for the one with 3.6mm of meat left and $150 for the 3.8mm one. Mine are 3.6mm and 3.4mm so the thin one really should go. hmmm.

Ok. Fitted a new front tyre to replace the '06 one, fitted a 2nd hand front brake rotor to replace the out of spec one and all new pads up front. After a 400Km run I found that all handling issues have been resolved. However, about the half way mark I noticed fork oil leaking out and I can feel a blemish in the stanchion chrome on that fork. So back on the jack, tank and fairing come off again and I pull the fork out.

I had a bit of trouble getting the top circlip out, it was difficult to push the plug down far enough. Once it came, out popped 3 50cent pieces with holes drilled in them, sitting on top of the spacer. The spring is on the bottom end of spec but it's within spec so I dunno why he's done that but that's probably why the forks where raised up in the yoke when I got it.

Here's what I felt on the chrome. I'll take it down to rad to see if they can fix it.




And here's a quick $1.50 fix for something ...

I've pulled the other fork apart and found out what the coins are for. There were 6 coins in this side as the spring is quite a bit shorter. He didn't look to hard at it cos it's actually snapped.

Hard chroming is not cheap either. They want $160 per leg.

Why not just find a used leg and reseal it?

OBTW I think there are some differences in the rs left & right leg???? I think I read somewhere that 1 is dampened, one is not? and they take a different amount of oil in each one????

Not sure where I found that.

They look the same inside to me. The manual says 360ml in each leg.

I found a pair of '89 forks off an RT and a pair of '84 of an RS on ebay. The '89 ones are bent the '84's look ok in the pics.

The BM Shop has a few also, he's looking for $100 each.

ibjman wrote:OBTW I think there are some differences in the rs left & right leg???? I think I read somewhere that 1 is dampened, one is not? and they take a different amount of oil in each one????

Not sure where I found that.

It's here Jay -> http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/fork-oil.shtml

It looks like 16V Bikes have different amounts.

the differences are in the damper assembly way down the bottom don't sweat it
but you could find a difference in the tube diameter between the early and later types
do some research ..its all in here ...just need to look

I pulled the pistons from both forks and cleaned them. I don't see any difference at all in either. I've built one almost good one out of all the bits and hope to buy another top end for the left leg. Even in the one I built up, I see one divot in the chrome leg which might be an issue. I hit it with 2000 grade wet/dry and metal polish to try and put off the inevitable.  Time will tell...

Different internals left/right was used in the sport fork which was mounted on the
RS limited edition models (and K75's).

Nice to hear from you again Inge. I had not seen your posts on a while. The SE bikes were all painted 2-tone dark blue with white, correct?

So I guess, no concerns for my early rs or for the other respondent here.? Ours are identical?
Regards, ibj...

Thanks, Ibj...not needed to log on that much, most questions allready answered.

You're correct about the LE models from -88, about earlier models you find some details in reply #11 in this thread.

I got a straight pre loved stanchion from the BM Shop for $95. He threw in a pair of springs that are the right length so I've rebuilt the forks with new seals and oil and put them back on the bike.




I also just noticed these wires wrapped in electrical tape. I put a meter on them and I get 12v across them with the parking lights on. Looking inside the fairing I see an empty hole above the headlight. I'm guessing there should be a bulb socket and pilot bulb in that hole and these are supposed to connect to it. Sound right? I don't see that holder listed anywhere so I'm guessing it's made of unobtainium and I'll need to improvise something.

part number 4

63121459131
Not listed on Motorworks. Maybe an email to them or Motobins.

Cheers, I figured something was missing.
I thought I might pull it apart and put an LED strip light in there.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OZ-Car-12V-30CM-Waterproof-2x-LED-Strip-Lights-SMD-White-Bar-Boat-Caravan-Marine-/370773809181?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5653d7581d&_uhb=1

or

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZD0570

Someone else here got a flexible small LED flex strip and (I think) may have managed to insert it through the little hole.
However the little OEM socket should be relatively easy to get used or new. It can't be much money.

Already stripped the headlight, washed it, put in an LED strip and got it on the bike. I got the stuff from jaycar so I could do it now. They cut it off a roll for $2.95 per 50mm, so I got 150mm. I plugged the bulb hole with a grommet and tied a knot in the cable to stop it pulling on the strip. It works.

looks great

looks good ..

for those planning on doing a similar mod
just get a strip of aluminium about 10-12 mm wide
and long enough to go from each side of the that wriggly reflector strip mounting points ( 6 guage screws )

remove the reflector bit and fix the leds to the aluminium strip

drill the strip appropriately to fit up the mounts ( a little bit of flexing -bending is required but it is so easy ....
drill a small hole adjacent to the old pilot lamp hole on the under side and thread the cable through there ...

you will find that the 12mm wide strip will allow the cabling to enter into that area easily and semi hidden to the leds

just a suggestion

https://i.servimg.com/u/f70/16/13/61/46/2013-046.jpg

only problem is the head light seems dull in comparison... even with a 130/90

Klompy the grey brick wrote:only problem is the head light seems dull in comparison... even with a 130/90

Could just be the camera exposure, it was the middle of the day. That's the xeon bulb that arrived in the post yesterday and it's definitely better than the old one. Relays from china aren't here yet and I think they are still at least a couple of weeks away. It's just a quick fix so I can get all the fairing bits back on the bike for the weekend. I'd still like to change those spade terminals to a plug/socket arrangement and I see Jaycar has these pretty cheap.

RobinW wrote:

Klompy the grey brick wrote:only problem is the head light seems dull in comparison... even with a 130/90

Could just be the camera exposure, it was the middle of the day. That's the xeon bulb that arrived in the post yesterday and it's definitely better than the old one. Relays from china aren't here yet and I think they are still at least a couple of weeks away. It's just a quick fix so I can get all the fairing bits back on the bike for the weekend. I'd still like to change those spade terminals to a plug/socket arrangement and I see Jaycar has these pretty cheap.

I meant mine...the headlight is distinctly yellow whereas the LED is almost blue...as I can select parker only it seems a good option as its really visible in the day...DTR??...yep

Won't that be because of the white balance on the camera?

LED's do emit more blue that incandescent bulbs. I plug cameras into telescopes now and then. To flat field the images of space I take a pic of light from an LED light box. Here is how photoshop shows that flat field image. See the hystogram to the right, blue is a lot stronger. Also some cameras see blue/green stronger than red.





Still working on this but here is the latest image off the telescope.

http://www.photometrictesting.co.uk/Image/Colour%20Temperature%20Main.jpg

I have a HID kit in the cupboard do I fit that or is that just going to annoy the other road users as much as HID's annoy me.

Still working on this but here is the latest image off the telescope.

[/quote]



Feck Me what a picture!!!!!!!!!

You surely don't get pictures like that from a Brisbane backyard do you? With all the light around.

Yes. But it's not a normal snapshot type RGB image. It's a narrowband image. That's the light generated by Sulphur (S2), Hydrogen (Ha) and Oxygen (O3) gasses which are excited by particles from nearby stars and you map them to RGB. So Red/Green is not visible to the human eye and if you capture the Blue with no moon about it works best  I use a mono camera and put filters in front of it. Doing normal LRGB from here isn't easy

Its always interested me but I'm usually too busy playing with things that go Vroom Vroom Boom

It takes hours and hours over multiple nights to get an image and is about as exciting as watching paint dry to be honest. I normally get it running and then retreat inside. I got into it cos you can't see a thing through an eyepiece from here

Klompy the grey brick wrote:http://www.photometrictesting.co.uk/Image/Colour%20Temperature%20Main.jpg

I have a HID kit in the cupboard do I fit that or is that just going to annoy the other road users as much as HID's annoy me.

just shade the up lighting a bit john so at least it has a bit of a level line rather than swamping everything in sight ...up down left and right ... so that might mean shading the under side of the reflector ?

Holy crap! What a brilliant photo!

Well worth the time spent Robin. Amazing.

Cheers Guys.
Going a bit off topic, but I have a gallery on line if you want to see more.  
http://starshed.net/

On the other hand I got the fairing back on the RS, took a quick run this arvo and it ran like a top. Once it warmed up it felt like it wanted to go to Sydney

RS's love it in Sydney.....ran mine for the first time in weeks, with a fresh paint job oil change etc...life is good.

I hammered it over Mt Cotton and down to the Gold Coast today. No oil leaks from the engine at all and it did 310Kms before the fuel light came on. Still seems a bit rough coming off low revs but the vacuum gauges are coming this week, fingers crossed. Goes like the clappers over 4K rpm though

I still feel a light touch of fork oil on the forks. Not leaking, but I feel fork oil. The boys new F800R forks are dry as a bone. I guess the K is showing it's age.

I noticed the back end skips a bit at times and have found that tyre is dated 2009. Damn thing still had new tyre bristles on it when I bought it. Bugger ....

The Carbtune gauges arrived, yahhh.

I put in a T piece on TB 4 as shown, I guess you need to do this? I warmed it up a bit, connected the tubes and TB4 was very very low compared to the rest. This is the one that needed the exhaust shim dropped by .1mm. It was followed by TB1 with 2 and 3 being close to each other and the highest readings of them all. I screwed in the bypass screws and some where screwed out  by 5 full turns. I set them all to 1 full turn out, upped the idle screw to give me about 2500RPM and went to adjust the TB set screws.

It appears they all have blue locktite on them. As I loosened the lock nuts, the screws turned. I had to remove all 3 set screws to get the locktite off. It seems TB 3 is the master and the screws adjust the others to match it however there does appear to be some interaction between them.

I got all of them reading very close to each other at 2500RPM, dropped the idle screw back to idle and adjusted the bypass screws to even them up there. The fan started coming on so I'm letting it cool down before having another look at it but as it is, it seems a lot smoother and revs better from idle.

I found a tiny open ended spanner that fit the lock nuts so screwed them down, trying not to alter the adjustments I'd made and put a dab of fingernail polish across the nut and thread to try and hold it there. I'm not sure if fingernail polish melts but time will tell.

I took it for a run to the motor store to pick up some injector cleaner and all the burbling and hesitation I was getting applying power from idle is gone. Power delivery seems smooth across the entire rev range now. I'm hoping to do a run to the Sunshine coast on the week-end so we shall see if fuel economy has changed as well.

Looking good





This one is with the bike at a fast idle, about 1200RPM.
A bit hard to see in the pic but they are all very close.

hope it works out robin

we usually try and steer clear of adjusting the inline adjusters ...they are usually set on a flow bench and very hard for the amateur without all the right tools to adjust correctly .
the symptoms you are trying to adjust out sound remarkably like a leaking rubbers on the tb to head side

we have seen similar values repaired by just resealing the rubber to head with some sealant ,,,done correctly it means pulling the whole lot off cleaning up the surrounding area first ....etc ...

good luck mate

have a great ride

I did spend a fair bit of time looking for air leaks before these gauges arrived and couldn't find any. I even used almost half a can of start ya bastard and soaked everything with a zero result. All the rubber around the TB's look to have been replaced already, even those clamps look to have been re squeezed/clamped. I'll leave it be at this stage and see how it goes.

It's sure running a lot better now, even all the knocking noises I was getting when starting from cold have gone away

I wanted to thank you all for the help and advise you gave me during this resurrection. I've clocked up around a thousand Kms over the last couple of weeks and the bike is thundering along nicely. I can't find anything else to fix, everything just works, it's running like a bought one.
 


I'm hoping you'll understand we all want new challenges and to that end I'm lining up an '94 R1100RS, which is in pretty poor shape, as the next project bike. It looks like it's been in a shed for 3 years. I'm just a sucker for a bargain 

Got some Photo's between rain showers today       

nice ....looks the goods as well robin ...
cheers mate !

Very nice indeed. I like it, a lot.  

I've never really noticed before now, how the chrome heat shield helps make the silencer less "obvious".

true indeed mike ....I recon about 4 inches off the end would put it back to "nice"

Jeez Robin, that's 10 out of 10!

Want a new challenge? I'll bring mine over!

Very well done.

blaKey wrote:Jeez Robin, that's 10 out of 10!

Want a new challenge? I'll bring mine over!

Very well done.

  

Too late mate, I have secured that Boxer at the price I wanted to pay. 
I'm picking it up tomorrow night then the NSW plates come off.
This photo hides all the faults quite nicely  

By the look of that photo, you'll be done in a couple of weekends!

Yeah they can be good with a camera when they wanna be.

So much oil is leaking from the right pot it smokes like it's on fire and talk about backfiring, it's a Kboom Bike not a KBike

I won't get into the paint or the 5 year old tyres, again

There won't be any 50c pieces in the forks though, it's a front and rear mono shock.

But the motor's strong, loads of torque, I think my arms are 2 inches longer from hanging on

I have a mate who has a R1200RT and the extra grunt it has comming out of corners is amazing. If we both come out of a slow corner in 2nd he just eats the K1100 for the first 30meters or so then I am all over him but they sure have got some extra torque down low.