hi,

I'm trying to replace the OEM rubber brake line on my 2V K100 with a new custom built braided line.  Since I'm doing this through emails and pictures, there is a communication problem with the supplier and they are asking questions that requires me to answer in precise terms.

I'm specifying the following:

A 10mm banjo bolt at the calliper end and a straight 10mm female (compression??) fitting on the master cylinder end.  The banjo fitting should angle at 135 degrees.   The resulting line should be 37cm from the centre of the banjo fitting to the end of the straight fitting.  

The completed line should appear similar to the one pictured in the right hand photo below:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/stainless-steel-brake-lines/front-brake-line-routing.jpg

I want to be able to specify the correct fittings and need validation from others here who are more knowledgeable than I with the terminology.  I don't want to get the specification wrong, resulting in an incorrect brake line.

I reckon that would be how I would describe and I would include a drawing to make it extra clear.

Speigler sells a kit
http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cycle-brake-line-kits.html

HellFishTat wrote:Speigler sells a kit

Thanks for that, I'm in the market too.

Ha. $200. Just put your money down.

Thanks for the replies.

I was aware of the Speigler product set for the K100 but I eliminated it from consideration a while back because of price.  The guy I'm talking with is able to produce the line for half the price of the Speigler equivalent.  The problem now is he is asking me questions that I'm not sure how to clarify (and he's in the States).  Therefore, there is a risk I'll get the wrong product made.  It's false economy to take this risk.  I'm back to considering the Speigler brake line, probably.

Why not post at http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/ and find somebody local who can do it?

For half the price tell them you someone wit a '91 k100rs lined up to order a second set (or more).  I'd happily buy a set if the fit.

Winter is coming in N.A.(North America), and the majority of people will soon store their bikes away for a couple of months.
Can we send this guy a sample of the original lines and get a quote for let's say 10 sets? (I have few spare original lines for an RT)
We may be able to use the buying power of this forum to get an affordable price for everybody.
As the company is in N.A., if the price is good, we could organize a global shipping to a local forum member acting as a distributor in other countries.
You would pay the shipping, but no handling fees.

Just an idea.

CF

A local hydraulic supply company can fabricate what you want for what should be a fair price.

I'd drop by and ask before shelling out dough anywhere else - keep the money local!

Don't Motobins ship to North America?

CF:

I bet Galfer in LA would be up for it.  Not only do they make money doing it but get the exact specs to offer a kit out of the deal in the future.  Would be less than Spiegel I predict.

On my K100 and K75 I went banjo bolt on the master to banjo bolt on the right caliper and then a $17 BMW metal pipe from the right to left caliper.  Universal braided stainless DOT (has to be plastic covered to be legal in the US) 26" line from the master to the caliper.

Total cost in parts:

35 or 45 degree banjo bolt for the master - $11
90 degree vbanjo bolt for the caliper - $11
Braided line - $29

Banjo bolts are 3/8(10mm) and work fine on K masters and calipers

BMW part - free (hand them on hand from parts bikes)

Brad-Man wrote:A local hydraulic supply company can fabricate what you want for what should be a fair price.

I'd drop by and ask before shelling out dough anywhere else - keep the money local!

Except that in my case, local hydraulic companies don't want to do anything related to motor vehicles.
This is a problem of liability.

Crazy Frog wrote:

Brad-Man wrote:A local hydraulic supply company can fabricate what you want for what should be a fair price.

I'd drop by and ask before shelling out dough anywhere else - keep the money local!

Except that in my case, local hydraulic companies don't want to do anything related to motor vehicles.
This is a problem of liability.

Same here.  One shop that will is mostly old SAE stuff for older American cars and doesn't have a lot that'll work on our bikes.  The only shop I've ever found to do brake stuff is a one-man show who's been doing brakes only for years.

I've heard a good approach is to just lie about what the use is but I haven't tried that.

There's a couple of guys on Craig's List that offer to do custom MC lines but I've never priced them.

duck wrote:Why not post at http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/ and find somebody local who can do it?

Yes, I follow that forum Duck, and members make recommendations for companies in the area who can do this work.  I've brought the master cylinder and brake caliper to them to show. So far, haven't found one of the suggested companies that has 10mm straight compression fittings.  All have banjo bolts, because the Jap bike only use banjo fittings.  None of the shops I visited were able to help unfortunately.

duck wrote:On my K100 and K75 I went banjo bolt on the master to banjo bolt on the right caliper and then a $17 BMW metal pipe from the right to left caliper.  Universal braided stainless DOT (has to be plastic covered to be legal in the US) 26" line from the master to the caliper.

Total cost in parts:

35 or 45 degree banjo bolt for the master - $11
90 degree vbanjo bolt for the caliper - $11
Braided line - $29

Banjo bolts are 3/8(10mm) and work fine on K masters and calipers

BMW part - free (hand them on hand from parts bikes)

You did this to the front brakes, right? Sounds like it from the description although you're not specific as to which MC.  

I don't think it is possible to use a 45 degree banjo on the rear master cylinder.  Is that correct?  The MC has a male thread, not a female thread, I think.  I'll be disassembling my rear master this weekend and will certainly find out.

I used Venhill lines from Motobins and they were a very reasonable price and half the price of a local doing the job.
All 5 were spot on.

The rear MC does have a female thread, Rob.

Paul.

Thanks Paul.  I did find that fact out this weekend when I disassembled the back brake system.  Looking at it, I hope to be able to use a 90 degree banjo connection on the MC and 45 degree banjo on the caliper.  I'll consult a LBS this week to find out.  The problem here in Toronto is that ALL the bike shops carry sports bike parts only; no one is able to supply speciality brake components that I am able to find.

Rob, if you're going to use a banjo on the rear MC, it may be a good idea to use a pressure switch to operate the brake light. Could be more reliable than the standard switch.
Just a thought.
Paul.

sidecar paul wrote:Rob, if you're going to use a banjo on the rear MC, it may be a good idea to use a pressure switch to operate the brake light. Could be more reliable than the standard switch.
Just a thought.
Paul.

I don't get this post at all.  I always leave a little play in the rear brake pedal so that if I decide to engine brake that I can still put a little pressure on the brake pedal to light up the brake lights so that the person behind me wakes up and knows that I'm slowing down.

And how is a switch that relies both on hydraulics AND an electrical connection going to be more reliable than one that relies solely upon an electrical connection? Not to mention that the electrical switch will come on sooner and illuminate your brake light more quickly.  The sooner the person behind you knows you're slowing the more time they have to react and not plow you from behind.

I can't tell you the number of cruisers I've driven/ridden behind that consistently engine brake and slow down without showing any brake light to let the person behind them know that they're slowing.  To me that's an invitation to getting rear-ended.

JMHO but situation awareness also includes letting the vehicles around you know what you're up to.

The throttle position switch would be a perfect candidate if you want your stop light to shine when shutting off the throttle.
How many other functions will we find for this switch?

CF

Crazy Frog wrote:The throttle position switch would be a perfect candidate if you want your stop light to shine when shutting off the throttle.
How many other functions will we find for this switch?

CF

What if you pull in the clutch and coast down a hill at idle.  You could be accelerating.

Rob,
Do you have access to Goodridge brake lines?

http://goodridge.brakes-hoses-fittings.co.uk/buildaline.php

It seems a simple way to make your own custom lines at a reasonable cost.

They also do some nice SS hydraulic brake light switches............

Paul.