Hi all, I'm finally coming to terms with the fact I'm going to have to look after this thing a bit more than just oil changes and am looking at doing a sizeable service. I'm just wondering if it is seriously recommended to replace the fuel filter every 10K miles as per the book, or if this is an unnecessary expense? A kit without it is under £40 (ebay Germany!), with it I'm looking at a bit over £50 from moto-bins. The rest all seems necessary, air filter/oil filter/plugs/washers/O rings. But the fuel filter.. Dunno? I've done almost 12K miles since I bought the bike, and have no idea how far the previous owner went with this filter but I bet it wasn't far, he seemed to replace everything just for fun.

Also, while I'm here, has anyone got any recommendations for sellers of injection hose? I bought some to replace the frighteningly cracked originals (previous owners far more concerned about fitting stainless fasteners ) on mine a mere 18 months ago, and having a look while I was replacing the radiator has shown there to be loads of cracks in the new stuff! Eek. I hear Halfords still sell it, and cheaply - anyone used it? I guess the heat of the engine gets to it somewhat, so quality appears to be important. I always assumed it would all be the same, but I hope that's not the case!

Also (!) the breather hose from the block to the plenum chamber is looking very sick, are there any cheap alternatives to this or does it have to be a proper one? I think that's it for now, until I get to the shaft splines and have to ask what grease is best..

I replace the fuel filter at 40,000km intervals. I have never had filter problems however if the fuel quality was at all doubtful then probably every 20K to be on the safe side.

That's what I like to hear Fuel has only been British (the correct fuel, you know) or Western European, it all looked good to me. I'd also say it's running rich rather than lean, so it can't be that clogged. And the pump sounds at least similar to when I got it, I have read they can get significantly louder when trying to force fuel through a clogged up filter..

Cheers!

Halfrauds 8mm ID hose will do you fine -I have it on LFB. Be aware that you will need a good worm-drive clip on the feed hose (the one closest to the back) as the OEM is actually 7mm ID (thanks BMW - only available from you, eh?). Best spline grease? Loads of opinions on that one on here. I use Castrol Optimol; you've probably seen my recent whinge about having to do the job this week. After a year and 15,000-ish miles there was still silver grease on all parts of all of the splines. Oh - and Motorworks are cheaper than Motobins for most parts, as well as doing good quality secondhand stuff. But you are going to have to buy a new crankcase to airbox breather pipe. You can guarantee that skinflint here has devoted quite some time to trying to avoid doing just that...

Dragon, this year?

I agree with what Rick said about the fuel filter.

The breather hose? I haven't seen an alternative (someone please prove me wrong!), so you'll have to buy the real or pattern part.

Spline grease? Please do a search on this topic as we've had recent discussions on this subject...people get very passionate about what grease they use.

There's so much talk about which grease that it's hard to keep track of what's recommended and what isn't! I'm a way off that yet though, I think the valve clearances are higher up the list. But if it's just the shaft it's easy, right? I won't bother with the other side of the gearbox, not yet.

I tracked down 7.6mm hose last time which was a bloody tight fit, and quite hard to find. I wonder if the shop had kept it in stock a very long time.. I remember it seeming nice and fresh when I was putting it on though. I am always wary about Halfords stuff, their bulbs are awful but if it's good enough for Dai it'll do for me.

If I ever need bits I always check moto-bins, Motorworks and James Sherlock.. Moto-bins are selling their service kits at a really good price though considering it comes with the fuel filter. Shame about the breather hose too, but it is bent and twisted in a rather interesting way. I'm not sure if even a bit of Samco would be happy there.

No Dragon for me this year, or Paul, or Becky as she couldn't find anyone to go with.. Maybe in 2017 when I've had some more time to forget what it's like? Got to get my own tent too, that'd be better..

"I'm not sure if even a bit of Samco would be happy there."

Please explain?

Samco make lovely soft silicone hose that is supposed to be better than anything at doing everything a hose was ever asked to do. It might be soft/workable enough to fit, though it would probably end up a bit longer so that it can curl around and not kink. Has no one ever done this? Is the original hose the same ID both ends?

Just checked my spare...16mm ID both ends.

it would be good to find a formed silicone hose for that breather, the heat in that area makes short work of the rubber. 
the sillycone radiator hose sellers , samco and a3s or as3, sure do promise the world ( cooler operating temps no less! , really, how i ask?)
ive heard it said the engine operates fine with the plenum blocked off and the engine breather open to atmosphere ,   with or without pcv valve.

If your fuel pump vibration damper starts to disintegrate, bits will break down and eventually find their way past the pump screen and into your filter. When the filter starts to clog, the pump will have to work harder and will wear out faster. Check inside your tank to see if you have any black bits floating around the bottom. 
Here in OZ we have some after market filters that come pretty cheap at under AU$15

Check inside your tank to see if you have any black bits floating around the bottom. 
Here in OZ we have some after market filters that come pretty cheap at under AU$15

I know what you mean Nigel but floating bits are usually on the top

Poetic licence rick 
I knew when i typed that that some smart arse would pick up on it. On ya mate. 

beanoldboy wrote:ive heard it said the engine operates fine with the plenum blocked off and the engine breather open to atmosphere ,   with or without pcv valve.

I can't see why that shouldn't work. The breather forms a loop back to the underside of the air filter which, on the face of it, is to recycle any fuel vapour that's hanging around. Blocking off the plenum is going to stop the recycling, but how critical is that anyway? It will still get sucked back into the throttle bodies at some point.

Dai, I have no idea what you're talking about.. Isn't it just for crankcase pumping? Does anything go into the airbox? It is also surely the reason I was informed by anyone who followed me that the exhaust smells quite strongly of oil.. Even though it barely uses any. One fellow even pointed to the fuel rail and exclaimed "nice oil delivery system, that!". Whatever could he mean

I had a quick look on ebay for fuel filters, they start at £18.99 which is bonkers. So I came here to see if I really truly need one.. I'll have a look for bits in the tank though.

Snod Blatter wrote:Dai, I have no idea what you're talking about..

I'm actually poking for a response from those who know better than I do. My theory and their knowledge could be at widely differing variances.

Dai wrote:

beanoldboy wrote:ive heard it said the engine operates fine with the plenum blocked off and the engine breather open to atmosphere ,   with or without pcv valve.

I can't see why that shouldn't work. The breather forms a loop back to the underside of the air filter which, on the face of it, is to recycle any fuel vapour that's hanging around. Blocking off the plenum is going to stop the recycling, but how critical is that anyway? It will still get sucked back into the throttle bodies at some point.

don't know about it being sucked into the throttle bodies without the hose in place ....

I think you will find that the recirculation of the crankcase vapours is to comply with accepted emission standards

but have seen many pics of non recirculation of the crank vent and blocked off plenum ...perhaps they could do with a catch can at the end before venting to atmosphere from the crankcase ?

I have a picture to explain this very clearly but currently seeking permission to post it from the owner




thanks ben

+1 that Charlie. Small amounts of oil will vapourise when very hot particularly during the first 500 to 1000 klms after oil change. Plus some unburnt combustion gasses can find their way past rings into the crankcase. Legislation requires all crankcases gasses are recycled back into the intake.

Just an aside... I read a while ago that too frequent OCI results in the intake running practically all the time with higher concentrations of crankcase gasses effectively leaning the mix, promoting a buildup of deposits coating intake parts and reducing performance. 
I've also read that the detergent action of engine oil occurs mostly during the first 2000 klm after oil change. Frequent OCI could result in greater engine wear due to prolonged exposure to detergent action of oil.

I have no expertise in this area at all, its just what I've read, but oil technology has advanced considerably over the last couple of decades, particularly with synthetics, reducing the need for frequent OCIs.

re: legislation requiring crankcase venting to induction 
of course ,  irresponsible of me to suggest otherwise , for entertainment purposes only !