K100RS 84 – nearly ready to rego.

Battery issues: was told that the battery was new. However bike would start and after a ride would not restart. Multi meter indicated 15.70 when running – so alternator is (I believe) a little high but working. After a day or 2 battery would be around 11V. Looked for a leak across the fuses (thanks to Waz who set me straight on using DCA (Amps) not DCV (Volts)… no reading – all seemed good. Did this both with and without fuses in. Did a second leak test with negative disconnected and DCA setting on multimeter between negative terminal and frame. Nothing. Have now ditched the battery and substituted for another (in the belief that it could be a cell in the “new” battery –looks like a cheapy). Am keeping a log of readings.

When revving the bike the speedo needle occasionally flickers to around 60kms. I would have thought that the speed sensor on the final drive could create an inconsistent signal – but not when stationary. Any idea what this is?

Bike starts well – once the fuel line was primed with a touch on the starter button, it went first go without choke. I have replaced the negative lead with a ticker homemade version. Maybe there is something to be said for bigger wire = less resistance and more flow…hence easier starting. Bought a metre’s worth, 6 tips and have 1 spare.

Idle was around 1000rpm. So I screwed the throttle screw in centre of throttle bodies back ¾ turn. Idle is now on about 850. However, there is a slight popping that can be heard in the Staintune exhaust. Dumb question: is this the idle screw retarded too far and starving the engine of fuel OR air leaks? I know I know get the propane out…but the shed’s past saturation point and access is problematic

Clutch actuating arm dust boot is leaking oil and am waiting on Motobins delivery. Am getting restless and might pack the boot with tissue paper and turn the split to the high side and stop around the corner from the blue slip inspection garage and clean it up (they are a car inspection rather than a bike shop… so far less aware)

Rear shock felt iffy coming into the driveway so I put the old one back on – a fournales air shock. This needs a new dust boot o-ring and I have tried to contact the spares dude in …wtf… Bicheno Tasmania?! No reply yet.

Still, compared to the RT and all its fairing, the naked RS feels quite perky and alive … not really a fan of the RT fairing. So I am looking forward to rego and recreation when 2 weeks Long suffering leave arrives. Hopefully, I’ll be scooting around the Illawarra, escarpment and environs enjoying beautiful roads, weather, lunches and, of course, beer.

Happy riding
Guy

The idle should be 1000 Rpm. Two valve Bricks had a built in check feature. Once set at 1000 Rpm press the green starter button if the mixture is correct the revs should stay the same or rise slightly. If they rise significantly or drop the mixture needs adjusting. 
Regards Martin.

15.7 volts is far too high and will boil the battery which has already happened by the sounds of it. You should not get more than 14.2 maybe 14.3 volts.

Get a new regulator it's the white thing screwed on to the back of the alternator.
EME in US has them and Motobins. I believe that they are the same as the old VW beetle which means you may be able to buy them from a local auto electrician.

I have a brand new adjustable I got from EME and will sell for $30 plus postage.  I bought it when I didn't actually need it and now probably never will use it.

Hello!
Just search vor 0190005001 on EBay.
Cheers