BMW K bikes (Bricks)

You are not connected. Please login or register

View previous topic View next topic Go down  Message [Page 1 of 1]


dallasf

dallasf
Silver member
Silver member
Hi,

Got my first K and doing some regular maintenance.


I read that: Before changing any oil always remove the filler plug first.  The last thing you want is to drain it and then not be able to refill it. This is seldom an issue on K bikes though.


While doing an oil filter change I did not remove the plug first, I removed the oil pan first, then the plug. This was a mistake (as per above) am I up the creek? Not sure I understand why that is so bad? What do I do to fix this?


Thanks

    

Laitch

Laitch
Life time member
Life time member
You haven't done anything to fix because you're able to remove the filler cap. If the filler cap were seized after you drained the oil, you wouldn't be riding anywhere until you were able to remove it and replenish the oil. That's what your quote in red type is implying.

Did you actually remove the oil pan to drain the oil, or did you remove the oil filter cover? Did you remove the drain plug, too?


__________________________________________________
1995 K75 81,000 miles
Removed the 'oil pan' before the oil plug Usa-lo10
    

dallasf

dallasf
Silver member
Silver member
Hi,

Oh great, good news. I get it now. No problem removing any of the nuts or drain plug.

Apologies, it was the oil filter cover, not the pan.

Thanks for reply, much happier now.

Dallas

    

Laitch

Laitch
Life time member
Life time member
Bhavatu sabba-mangalam  Very Happy


__________________________________________________
1995 K75 81,000 miles
Removed the 'oil pan' before the oil plug Usa-lo10
    

92KK 84WW Olaf

avatar
Life time member
Life time member
Either way its not a problem. 

If you bugger or if the PO has buggered either the sump bolt or the 3 allen bolts on the circular cover for the oil filter you can remove the sump pan, it has I think 9 identical bolts.

The sump an uses sealant, no gasket so a good move is keep some sealant in the shed.

If you do have the sump pan off then clean the oil pick up strainer mesh.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 37,190 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 39.885miles.

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
I believe the warning about making sure the filler can come off is for the transmission and the final drive oil changes.  The engine oil filler doesn't normally seize in place.

Because the filler plugs for them are Allen heads, there is the chance that a previous owner rounded out the hex so they can't be removed.  In that case, the unit can't be refilled without a lot of extra work.  

It's a good idea to use a fairly new Allen wrench that is a good fit and that when tightening those filler plugs you avoid going nuts with the torque.  Just snug them up.  They seem to tighten up with time for some reason and can be pretty difficult to loosen.  A little copper anti-seize on the threads helps, too.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1991 K100RS
1988 K100RS SE

Past:
1994 BMW K75S
1992 BMW K100RS
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

Holister

Holister
Life time member
Life time member
@Point-Seven-five wrote:....
It's a good idea to use a fairly new Allen wrench that is a good fit and that when tightening those filler plugs you avoid going nuts with the torque.  Just snug them up.  They seem to tighten up with time for some reason and can be pretty difficult to loosen.  A little copper anti-seize on the threads helps, too.
A good idea, but if you are new to BMW maintenance then invest in a set of allen sockets. The little bendy keys will bugger your bolt heads very quickly.


__________________________________________________

1989 K100RT     VIN  0097367 (naked)  
1996 K1100RS   VIN  0451808
  Removed the 'oil pan' before the oil plug Austra12    Fuel:  95 Octane
Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50
Gear Box Oil:  Nulon Synthetic 75W90
    

dallasf

dallasf
Silver member
Silver member
Thanks guys, appreciate the help and guidance.


__________________________________________________
1989 k100 RS SE - 168,000kms
    

View previous topic View next topic Back to top  Message [Page 1 of 1]

Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum