BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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Bipolar

Bipolar
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Last October I took my K100RT to the shop where I work to change the engine oil before parking the bike for the winter.
I shut it off outside the shop and went in and opened the door. When I went to start it to drive it in side it would not crank
over but I could hear the starter spin but not engage.
 I changed the oil and got a push to get it started and drove the bike home and parked it in the man-cave for the winter.
 Last week the new sprag showed up so I stripped the bike down and replaced the sprag. From start to finish it took 
about 14 hours. I can't believe how many parts had to come off. Its back up and running again.

I should have ordered a new set of the six bolts that hold the clutch together. They are 7mm fine thread metric bolts.
an odd size that none of the local industrial stores could even get. The allen hex distorted removing them, I ended 
cutting slots in the heads with the milling machine and was able to torque that way.

Another month and the snow will be gone and the K bike is back on the road.

Bipolar

    

92KK 84WW Olaf

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You reused the clutch bolts and cut slots in them?

Did you replace the rear main crankshaft seal when you were in there?


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 49,840 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 42,640 miles.

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

Bipolar

Bipolar
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Yes I replaced the rear seal with the updated seal.

    

Gergely

Gergely
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Bipolar wrote:Last October I took my K100RT to the shop where I work to change the engine oil before parking the bike for the winter.
I shut it off outside the shop and went in and opened the door. When I went to start it to drive it in side it would not crank
over but I could hear the starter spin but not engage.
 I changed the oil and got a push to get it started and drove the bike home and parked it in the man-cave for the winter.
 Last week the new sprag showed up so I stripped the bike down and replaced the sprag. From start to finish it took 
about 14 hours. I can't believe how many parts had to come off. Its back up and running again.

I should have ordered a new set of the six bolts that hold the clutch together. They are 7mm fine thread metric bolts.
an odd size that none of the local industrial stores could even get. The allen hex distorted removing them, I ended 
cutting slots in the heads with the milling machine and was able to torque that way.

Another month and the snow will be gone and the K bike is back on the road.

Bipolar
14 hrs only...my compliments! Did you reused clutch nut and all other components? Do you have the BMW special clutch plate centering tool?         I have some different issue, because sprag cluth seems to work but starter motor can not turn engine ONLY when spark plugs are out and engine is in a certain position. Seems like engine has some additional drag somewhere because strarter, cables and battery are checked :-(    Thank you if you have any idea. Greg

    

Bipolar

Bipolar
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Can you monitor the battery voltage with a voltmeter while cranking the engine.
You could have a weak battery or a bad connection somewhere.

    

Gergely

Gergely
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Bipolar wrote:Can you monitor the battery voltage with a voltmeter while cranking the engine.
You could have a weak battery or a bad connection somewhere.
I used my van's battery with the van engine in operation. So 80Ah battery in charge -> aprx. 14 Volts.   Direct connection to exclude any bike electric issue.    3 out of 3 starter motor behave in the same way. Not turning or only in some cases (no sparks etc) when mounted in place.                     If I pull out starter motor, during cranking (only starter motor, no fuel pump etc connected) amperage goes up to 180 at start (Amp meter range is on 200m) and stays around 110 when starter spins well. Connecting bike to the battery, Voltage drops from 14 even to 6 at starting and then back over 11 V when starter is spinning. Always with starter out of place=with no load.

    

Bipolar

Bipolar
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I can't see three bad starters. You are cranking it with the clutch released in case the drag is from the transmission. 
The alternator could be the problem a bearing failed or rust inside the alternator making it drag.
Do you know the bikes history?

Terry

    

Gergely

Gergely
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Bipolar wrote:I can't see three bad starters. You are cranking it with the clutch released in case the drag is from the transmission. 
The alternator could be the problem a bearing failed or rust inside the alternator making it drag.
Do you know the bikes history?

Terry
gearbox, half of the clutch, alternator and water\oil pumps are removed.         Bike is\was OK, I owe it for 15 years. Only minor services and routine as previewed till now.

    

Bipolar

Bipolar
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You should be able to rotate the engine by hand from the clutch end.
Was is stored for a while? Did this problem just occur?

    

Gergely

Gergely
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Bipolar wrote:You should be able to rotate the engine by hand from the clutch end.
Was is stored for a while? Did this problem just occur?
Bike was stopped for 2 weeks. Worked perfect till the last ride, never had this issue before.   Engine can be rotated from the clutch end, even by one hand, if I put my near to max.  force.    (and sprag clutch looks ok: free on left \ engages on right turn)

    

Bipolar

Bipolar
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I have no idea what else it could be.
Hopefully someone else here can help.
Terry

    

92KK 84WW Olaf

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Did you open the gear box at all?


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 49,840 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 42,640 miles.

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
Could it be the output shaft rivets? Isn't this an early model 100 with the 6 rivet output shaft?


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1991 K100RS


Past:
1988 K100RS SE
1994 BMW K75S
1992 BMW K100RS
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

Gergely

Gergely
active member
active member
92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Did you open the gear box at all?
Not opened, only detached/dismounted.  But it works perfectly and has no influence on cranking the engine in neutral. (now in gearbox connector wires are bypassed, simulating neutral gear for the ignition system, but has also no influence when using direct connection to starter motor)

    

Gergely

Gergely
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Point-Seven-five wrote:Could it be the output shaft rivets?  Isn't this an early model 100 with the 6 rivet output shaft?
It is a K75 from 1991. What is the issue exactly about the rivets? Engine can be turned by hand from clutch end and no strange noises heard.

    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
Don't pay any attention to my output shaft post.  I was reading the title of the thread where it referred to a 1985 K100.

You should put the model and year of your bike in the signature line in your profile. That way people like me will know what we're commenting on.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1991 K100RS


Past:
1988 K100RS SE
1994 BMW K75S
1992 BMW K100RS
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

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