hi,

At last, after fighting MOT for 4 weeks so they allow customs to allow post office to release bevelbox (for %50 taxes +some handling fees thank you) bike was put together.

To my great surprise bike did not fall apart during 1st ride after job (replaced rear seal, clutch plate drive shaft, bevelbox + spline lubes and many other small things). Also converted bike back to full naked , ie that very minimal mask it originaly comes with - feels great for our summer weather and i like the look.

but.. and there always seems to be a but... I have one new issue that I can only call "funny". when I pull in the clutch handle Eng. RPM begins to go down to the point where Eng stops. I should add that idling RPM is now for some reason lower then before, it was just below 1000 mark and now is at 800-750 mark.

Any ideas?
Roy

Firstly Roy, excellent work on a major project but silly question does the engine RPM go down with clutch disengaged and bike in gear and what happens if the bike is in neutral?

Regards,

Phil

phil_mars wrote:Firstly Roy, excellent work on a major project but silly question does the engine RPM go down with clutch disengaged and bike in gear and what happens if the bike is in neutral?

Regards,

Phil

good one - it certainly goes down when handle pulled in and I am in gear (like being impatient at a stop light about to go green).
I think, but now have my doubts that it also happens in neutral - will check later today.
Do you think clutch plate still touching so if bike in gear and immobile (break is on) this causes eng to slow down?

So perhaps I need to play with clutch adjustment? should I turn screw in or out (i guess out but need to verify)???

thank you,
Roy

Hi Roy, well done. Clutch and seals + others is a serious job for amaturs like us. Took me two attempts to get it right. Adjust the clutch cable at BOTH ends, 1 at the push rod end and 2. also at the clutch lever end. The lever should have about 5mm free play, that is 5mm before the cable takes any strain and starts to open the clutch. With that 5mm free play the clutch is fully engaged when the lever is out. Sounds like you are on the right track. Cheers Boris T.B.

Do you think clutch plate still touching so if bike in gear and immobile (break is on) this causes eng to slow down?

That is where I was heading but I would also think the bike would be trying to creep forward with brake off and gear changes would not be too smooth ?

Regards,

Phil

phil_mars wrote:

Do you think clutch plate still touching so if bike in gear and immobile (break is on) this causes eng to slow down?

That is where I was heading but I would also think the bike would be trying to creep forward with brake off and gear changes would not be too smooth ?

Regards,

Phil

gear changes are MUCh smoother then before - probably do to lubing, i have seperate issue that down shifting 5->4->3 can end up in "no mans land" - neutral like with gear indicaator blanck - i trhne need to forcefully redo action.

Hi Roy,

I have a couple of false neutrals that crop up from time to time especially between 4th and 5th but not that consistent and seems to reflect on me more than the bike but I have never ridden a bike without them somewhere and my old Honda 900 being the worst.

Regards,

Phil

Hello Roy,
Like you and Phil, I get the false neutrals, almost always 5>4. Sometimes it will not find 2 and the lever just moves up and down but does nothing. As Phil says, it mostly seems to be down to me and poor judgement. These are gearboxes that needs a sure hand (or foot!), with timing the gear change, critical to get the 'snick' that says good shift of gear. I'm learning to be far more careful with the RPM and positive when changing. Helps with the riding as well keeping in the 'right' power band by working through the gears a bit more. Strange that I never had such big problem on the RS, maybe I just rode it more as a cruiser and went a tad slower. Yes, the difference the new parts make is fantastic, feels like new. Well it is new. Cheers BTB

I agree that if i do it correctly this does not happen - I am not very good at timing the downshift with some throttle so bike will not too aggresively lose speed. I especialy misdgudge this in turns - however, since the lube I have NO issues upshifting - it is very smooth. I did register for an additional day of riding instruction - this time topic is about riding in twisty roads that also go up and down (like where i live). It is taking a bit of time to find me a riding partner (2 std / instructor). as the lady so very nicely said to me "we are looking for someome to match your riding qualities and bike"...

You will suss it out. They like smooth riding and well timed gear changes. Keep a bit of power on the throttle for control and dont change down at revs that are to high (5>4, its easy to do! Thats when mine drops into a false neutral). The engine has loads of torque and will slow/brake you and pull away you with ease, just make sure the choice of gear is correct. 4th gear is very useful and might be thought of as top gear in traffic. 5th is almost an 'overdrive' until 40/45mph is reached. Happy riding. BTB

Team, don't forget that when you are at revs and close the throttle the fuel injection stops, so you would be connecting a gearbox at relative speed (as driven by the rear wheel) to a low revving engine, which might be part of the problem. Some talk about a bit of throttle; blipping the gas, whilst declutched. Maybe you should try to make sure you don't close the throttle completely? Further already putting the slightest bit of pressure on the gear lever before you declutch can be helpful.

ReneZ wrote:Team, don't forget that when you are at revs and close the throttle the fuel injection stops, so you would be connecting a gearbox at relative speed (as driven by the rear wheel) to a low revving engine, which might be part of the problem. Some talk about a bit of throttle; blipping the gas, whilst declutched. Maybe you should try to make sure you don't close the throttle completely? Further already putting the slightest bit of pressure on the gear lever before you declutch can be helpful.

Hi Rene,
thank you for the advice - i will try this.
I need to go out and train - i see no other way. problem is most sever 4->3 because i think i downshift early and thus get a big differential between eng and bike speed - this eng has such stopping power that i have even had rear wheel nearly skid.
So now I will start training on downshifting in a systematic way. Perhaps strategy should be more aggresive use of breaks killing speed down to where gear needs to be shifted VS my current style of hardly using breaks even in downhil slowing but rather downshift and twist bike stronger into turns?
.
The reason I talk so much about this is that at times, if I need to down shift during turn, stability is and my concentration are compromised. As I have said before I will do a riding school "open road" day soonest.
Thank you,
Roy

Roy, little I can say to that, but be aware that a BMW is a different beast than most other bikes because of the dry clutch and the way the engine management system is set up. What works of one of the latest Hondas (as example) is not necessarily the right way to do it on a BMW like ours.