Here's the newer and improveder V4.0 of my Audiovox CCS-100 write-up for installation on any classic K bike.It supercedes all previous versions:

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/ccs100.k.bike/ccs100.k.bike.htm


Here's how to install a Rostra Electronic 250-1223 cruise control on a K75 or 2V K100. I just finished that and haven't tested it except for a short stint on the freeway so I may need to fine tune the DIP switch settings but it does work.

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/eleccruise/eleccruise.htm


If you have questions about either then please do not PM or email them to me.  Just post it in this thread because chances are someone else may have the same question and that way everyone can see the question and answer.  And you'll get other forum members' opinions too.

Which is "better?" I don't have an opinion yet.  I need to get some miles on the Rostra one to form an opinion. I'll update this post when I do.


January 2016 update: If you're considering adding cruise control to your K bike and debating over whether an electronic or vacuum cruise control is better then my strong recommendation is that you install the CCS-100 (or Murph's Kits equivalent) over the Rostra.

Why? Although, as an electronic cruise control, the Rostra is "technically superior" to a vacuum cruise, it tends to be a bit more jerky and less well behaved then the vacuum unit. The Rostra does work well enough on the bike I installed it on and I won't replace it but if I had it to do all over again I would install the vacuum unit instead. JM02.

I put the CCS 100 on years ago following your system and it works great.
I will say that if I didn't have it I would not be riding any more due to wrist and hand problems.

RicK G wrote:I put the CCS 100 on years ago following your system and it works great.
I will say that if I didn't have it I would not be riding any more due to wrist and hand problems.

Do you mean somebody actually reads the bullshit I put up on The Internet?

Seriously though, glad that you found it useful.  

You owe me a beer.

Thanks Duck. Just glancing over the instructions it appears you've gained plenty of experience on several bikes incl. K1.

I guess I have to ask, how reliable are they? Is this a toy system that only lasts a few seasons, or does it die-hard.

Also, how much power does it draw? I have only a 32Amp generator, and no immediate plans to upgrade.

AJ.Valente wrote:Thanks Duck. Just glancing over the instructions it appears you've gained plenty of experience on several bikes incl. K1.

I guess I have to ask, how reliable are they? Is this a toy system that only lasts a few seasons, or does it die-hard.

Also, how much power does it draw? I have only a 32Amp generator, and no immediate plans to upgrade.

I have been using one for 4 years and I know of a few here in Oz who have a lot of miles on them.
They are a proper cruise control that is made for cars and current draw is not at all big for either type CCS 100 or the Rostra, be around 1.5 amps tops and not a continuous draw.

AJ.Valente wrote:Thanks Duck. Just glancing over the instructions it appears you've gained plenty of experience on several bikes incl. K1.

I guess I have to ask, how reliable are they? Is this a toy system that only lasts a few seasons, or does it die-hard.

Also, how much power does it draw? I have only a 32Amp generator, and no immediate plans to upgrade.

Toy? Not at all. The CCS-100 in my LT works fine after almost ten years, tens of thousands of miles and lots of use.  TONS of people have installed these in cars and on motorcycles. Although I'm sure one breaks once in a while, I've never heard of one failing.

Power: 

The CCS-100 uses the vacuum from the throttle bodies as the energy source to pull on the throttle cable so, aside from the minimal current for processing, all it needs is enough power to open/close a valve that controls how much vacuum there is on the diaphragm attached to the cable.  The fuse that comes with it is only 3 amps. Won't be an issue at all with a 32A alternator.  I installed the cruise control and 70W(35x2) of driving lights on my K1100LT when it had a 32A alternator. I'd run the cruise, OEM heated grips and the lights all at the same time without issue.

The Rostra 250-1223 uses electrical energy to pull on the cable and comes with a 10 amp fuse. Even that probably works if it's the only additional load on a stock 32A K bike.

Duck, I recently purchased the Rostra cruise control for my K75RT.  I saw where you said you installed yours in the tail cowl.  I have yet to start dismantling the bike, but before I do I wanted to know how you fastened yours, and most important, did you have an ABS brain in the cowl.  The installation of the other stuff looks fairly straightforward, it's just the servo that looks kind of bulky, and I really don't want to stick it up in the fairing.  The cowl sounds like a great place to put it, but it doesn't look like there is much room in there with the ABS.

Five of my 8 Ks are in storage right now (including the one with the Rostra) but off the top of my head I'm pretty sure that both the ABS brain and Rostra control unit will fit together in the tail cowl.

Also note that neither one needs to be bracket bolted to anything so they can just be left loose in the tail cowl and will still function fine.  I've never really liked the K75 ABS bracket in the tail cowl so on my K75 Frankenbrick I have both the ABS brain and CCS-100 control unit floating around loose in the tail cowl.

I suppose this might be unsettling to more A-type personalities but to me it doesn't matter.

Duck, I like the way you think.  I am guessing that a few chunks of foam and access to things like mudguard and tail light hardware will be a lot easier even with the cruise in there.  I think that's the way I'm going to go. 

Thanks!

Did you hook the cable up the same way as on the K1100. I am about to order one from murph and fit it but the rube goldberg contraption I had on the K100 wont fit because the space isn't there behind the radiator.
I ask because the airbox is out much futher than with a K1100.

Yeah also, it's good to see you back. I was starting to wonder if you would be.

RicK G wrote:Did you hook the cable up the same way as on the K1100. I am about to order one from murph and fit it but the rube goldberg contraption I had on the K100 wont fit because the space isn't there behind the radiator.
I ask because the airbox is out much futher than with a K1100.

Yeah also, it's good to see you back. I was starting to wonder if you would be.

What's the target "victim" here?  I've had to figure out how to make them work on K75s, K100s, K1s and K1100s but there is a way to make the CCS work on all of them.

The K75s and K100s are the most tricky but there is a way to do it.

Sorry just one more senior moment to add to the rest. I think my hands were trying desperately keep up with my brain and left some bits out.  All I can do is plead the Homer Simpson defence DOH.
Its a K75 that I am making into an adventure bike.
On the K100 when I had the CCS on it I made a barrel arrangement to sit behind the airbox and the throttle cable from the injectors was on that and there were two cables side by side at the front end with a separater plate between and one was hand control and the other was the CCS. When I put it on the K1100 I followed your instructions and it worked well but the air plenum sits out over that linkage on a K75 so I was wondering where you attached it and if there was any sort of special bracket. I figure that seeing as you already invented something why invent another one.

Point-Seven-five wrote:Duck, I recently purchased the Rostra cruise control for my K75RT.  I saw where you said you installed yours in the tail cowl.  I have yet to start dismantling the bike, but before I do I wanted to know how you fastened yours, and most important, did you have an ABS brain in the cowl.  The installation of the other stuff looks fairly straightforward, it's just the servo that looks kind of bulky, and I really don't want to stick it up in the fairing.  The cowl sounds like a great place to put it, but it doesn't look like there is much room in there with the ABS.

My 92 K100LT is an ex police bike and the ABS unit is installed in the underseat plastic tray and not in the rear cowl. It's under the cover directly above the Fuel Injection control Unit. The plastic tray has a moulded in cut out on the right hand side to allow the cable into the tray and keep it watertight. Not sure if this tray is a different part number but its definitely a different moulding as it has a raised edge around the cut out.

If you need space its an easy modification as there are not special fitting and the normal tray can be cut and fitted with a grommet to do the same thing.

Hmmm... sounds good, but my K75RT does not have room under the seat for the tray.  I tried to put one in there, but then the seat wouldn't close.

Rick:

Good news! No special bracketing fab required.

Here's a quick and dirty web page I threw together on how I hook the servo cable up on K75s/K100s:

http://dws.x10host.com/misc/ccs100/ccs100.75.100.htm


Side note: I've had email conversations with a few people who have told me this approach simply will not work due to the limited clearance through the plenum.  However, I've done it this way successfully on four K75s and a K100 so I beg to differ.

Thanks I have just had a look and as usual the easy way is often the one that works. I tend to end up looking at complex solutions and often overlook some things that are very obvious to others.

RicK G wrote:Thanks I have just had a look and as usual the easy way is often the one that works. I tend to end up looking at complex solutions and often overlook some things that are very obvious to others.

 That is my problem as well.  I often spend too much time in the planning stage throwing out all the obvious and easy design solutions.  I mean, how can something work if it readily comes to mind and is easy to implement?

Hi,

I'm on my second Audiovox unit mounted on my 87 K100RS. The first failed due to heat I think when I had it mounted behind my radiator. The current install I made a few years ago and it is now in the tail compartment. It stopped working last year and I got it sorted out today when I eventually found that my relay for the brake over ride, since I have an LED stop light in addition to stock incandescent bulbs, got wet and was not making a ground.

I did all the control unit diagnostics yesterday looking at the LED in the control unit and they all passed. The oddity that I now have is that in order to "set" the speed, I have to push the "resume" button on the switch. The other functions for increasing speed pushing the "RES" resume button and slowing set speed by pushing the "SET" button act as they should.

I thought maybe I had switched the SET and RES wires incorrectly in the control unit but if that was the case why would the speed increase and decrease work as normal?

Anyone else run into this. Main thing is it works again!

Glenn

https://i.servimg.com/u/f62/19/88/31/04/img_1312.jpg

I had that happen to one of mine back when I was using the Audiovox switch and despite my filling it with silicone to waterproof it it still managed to get waterlogged and short out or whatever so that the set button didn't work right.  At least I think that's what caused it.  But is was definitely a switch issue since things worked fine when I used the BMW windscreen switch instead.

Here's how I make waterproof relays for the LED brake light:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/wprelays/wp.relay.htm

Thanks Duck!

Yes, I didn't suspect my Audiovox key pad since it is sealed so well but could be the reason. I got in three extended monsoon soakers and probably the reason that my brake switch relay got water in it. these "soakers" were "dump out my boots" when I stopped bad! I didn't seal the replacement up yet but will following what you did with the quick set up JB Weld.

The thing that is strange with the Audiovox switch now, like I said, I need the RES/reset to set the speed. Once it is set though everything works as it should. I can even use the SET button to change the set speed to a new speed.

Attached is a pic of the brake switch relay I replaced. It was under the right knee pad panel but still got water in it.

Appreciate your reply.
Glenn

I just fitted a CCS 100 to my K75. I used the #2TB shaft from a K100 set and inserted it into the #1 position of the K75 TB set so it had a threaded section on the front and attached a lever to it for the cable to pull . Also a #3 shaft from a K100 set could be used so the cable drum could be used which would possibly make it a bit better.

Interesting. Great instructions and info. I am keen to have this on all 3 of my k's.
Is there a newer or updated version to this info or a newer version of kit out there?

Curley wrote:Interesting. Great instructions and info. I am keen to have this on all 3 of my k's.
Is there a newer or updated version to this info or a newer version of kit out there?

I recently updated the page for electronic cruise:

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/eleccruise21/eleccruise21.htm

Thanks Duck, lots of good work there.

duck wrote:I've done both on K bikes and the vacuum one is much less jerky. (Yes, I've played with all of the settings.)

I have a Rostra electronic one sitting in my garage that will never be used.

I've installed well over a dozen cruise control units on K75s, K100s, K1100s and a K1.

Very, very late to the party, but on the subject of electric vs vacuum actators, did you take using all the available travel of the Rostra, and not have a lot of unused steps into account?

Being digital, it has a limited number of steps, and using them all is key to get the best function.

This is not my own discovery, I got it from the user Redbeard's sublime writeup of how to install the Rostra on a Suzuki Burgman 650.

Redbeard's writeup is so good that the information can be used for any install of cruise control to any vehicle, and I used it to install a EuroCruise with electric actuator to my Burgman 650.

The jerkyness you describe with the Rostra, is exactly what Redbeard wrote would happen, if only using half the available throw.

I have a Audiovox on my 87 K100RS and it is working well now. I did pickup a Rosta when it wasn't working and am interested in the settings for the Rosta. I had a little trouble finding Redbeard's article but found the pdf here:

"wspollack
2602 posts · Joined 2007

#2 · Mar 13, 2020
Brilliant work, @damocles.

I am very impressed by your work and the write-up. I am especially impressed by your user-control unit. You built this circuit board yourself (as well as designing it)? I assume you are or were an EE of some sort?

Incidentally, if someone would like to look at Redbeard's original document, I don't believe it (or anything else) is on the Burgman Knowledge Base anymore. However, I had downloaded it, and about three years ago put it up as a PDF document on my personal web site, here:

www.billanddot.com/BurgmanUSA-Knowledgebase-650-Rostra-Cruise-Control.pdf

This is the part of the installation instructions which covers how to avoid jerkiness:

From idle to full throttle, the distance that the scooters throttle cable travels is approximately 7/8". The Main Module cable when operating travels 1-5/8". That’s almost double the distance of the scooters cable. In order to be able to use the full 1-5/8" resolution of the Rostra, we'll need to make a separate Throttle Extension Arm. Increasing the arch traveled for the same degrees of throttle movement, the Rostra Cable will now be able to use the full 1-5/8" to control the scooters throttle from fully closed to fully open. 

"Best" Rostra Settings - K75 Std:

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/eleccruise21/eleccruise21.htm

The less beads the better

Readbear's text:

Looking at ‘Chart 1’ below it becomes more apparent. ‘Offset 1’ insures that the scooter throttle will be able to fully close when the cruise control is not active or canceled. ‘Offset 2’ prevents the Rostra Cable from being able to pull the scooters throttle open further that it can physically go. The red arrow shows the loss of resolution without the Throttle Adjustment Arm. In other words, the Rostra Cable would need to move the distance of the red arrow before it even begins to advance the scooters throttle. This delay can cause the cruise control to take a long time to start maintaining the selected speed. The Rostra also doesn't need beads installed to create slack as it would without the Throttle Adjustment Arm. As the addendum to the manual states, there is no need for beads if the throttle cable travel is >= 1-5/8” (1.625in.) in this current model.

Being digital, the Rostra has a limited number of positions, maybe 128 or 64, or even less, so you don't want to loose any of them.

But I have no idea if theres even room to install a longer arm on a K75/100

Thanks Duck

Tranberg wrote:The less beads the better

Readbear's text:

Looking at ‘Chart 1’ below it becomes more apparent. ‘Offset 1’ insures that the scooter throttle will be able to fully close when the cruise control is not active or canceled. ‘Offset 2’ prevents the Rostra Cable from being able to pull the scooters throttle open further that it can physically go. The red arrow shows the loss of resolution without the Throttle Adjustment Arm. In other words, the Rostra Cable would need to move the distance of the red arrow before it even begins to advance the scooters throttle. This delay can cause the cruise control to take a long time to start maintaining the selected speed. The Rostra also doesn't need beads installed to create slack as it would without the Throttle Adjustment Arm. As the addendum to the manual states, there is no need for beads if the throttle cable travel is >= 1-5/8” (1.625in.) in this current model.

Being digital, the Rostra has a limited number of positions, maybe 128 or 64, or even less, so you don't want to loose any of them.

But I have no idea if theres even room to install a longer arm on a K75/100

It's not the number of beads that matter, it's the slack. A three beat chain with 1/4" of slack will perform the same as a ten bead chain with 1/4" of slack.