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1Back to top Go down   K100 oil/water pump cavitation near seal  Empty K100 oil/water pump cavitation near seal on Wed Oct 14, 2020 10:52 pm

Johnk100lt

Johnk100lt
active member
active member
Hi guys,

Pulled the oil and water pump a few hours ago. Knocked out all the old seals. Found some crystals growing in the pump. Cleaned it all out and found some areas that are deteriorated near the radiator seal mounting surface.

Wondering if others have had similar issues and rebuilt the existing pump? Or if they replaced the pump housing.

I’m new here. Posting from mobile. Will try to get a pic posted ASAP for your review

    

Johnk100lt

Johnk100lt
active member
active member
You can see the marks just past 12 o clock and about 2 o clock.

Thanks for any advice

    

Johnk100lt

Johnk100lt
active member
active member
K100 oil/water pump cavitation near seal  95f73e10
K100 oil/water pump cavitation near seal  9965ee10

    

chris846

chris846
Life time member
Life time member
those marks don't look too serious - so long as the bore for the new seal is good, then things should be okay. the main issue with these pumps is the condition of the impeller shaft. there's loads of information on this forum. do a forum search and make sure you're familiar with the correct way to reassemble the seal - it's possible to destroy it if you do it wrong, but don't let that scare you, it's a simple enough concept once you get the hang of how it works.

9'pologies, cat knocked coffee over the keyboard - an act of typical cat spite because i wouldn't feed her quickly enough - now the shift key doesn't work9


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Sometimes I'm not really Suzi Quatro.
    

92KK 84WW Olaf

avatar
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@chris846 wrote:those marks don't look too serious - so long as the bore for the new seal is good, then things should be okay. the main issue with these pumps is the condition of the impeller shaft. there's loads of information on this forum. do a forum search and make sure you're familiar with the correct way to reassemble the seal - it's possible to destroy it if you do it wrong, but don't let that scare you, it's a simple enough concept once you get the hang of how it works.

9'pologies, cat knocked coffee over the keyboard - an act of typical cat spite because i wouldn't feed her quickly enough - now the shift key doesn't work9
Just get a mouse.... bounce


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1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011171 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 36,188  miles
    

chris846

chris846
Life time member
Life time member
Very Happy
ah, although the shift key isn't working, the shift boot still works fine
grrrr


__________________________________________________
Sometimes I'm not really Suzi Quatro.
    

Johnk100lt

Johnk100lt
active member
active member
Thanks for the quick reply. I’ve watched a few YouTube videos and done some reading on reinstalling the seals. I have the parts and tools from EME here in Denver. Will get it slapped back together today. Then just some new tires and she’s ready for next season (or maybe I’ll get a few warm days still in 2020)

I also have one I those pushy furballs, 2 actually, so no judgement on punctuation from me. 😂

    

Johnk100lt

Johnk100lt
active member
active member
Update here.

Seated the seals, gooped it up with motoseal and installed it.

Filled fluids, started right up, pissed fuel all over the garage. Smile. 30 year old fuel hoses were the culprit. Ran to the shop, got hoses, clamps... got the air box off despite some very stubborn socket cap screws and a mouse nest that must have traveled from pops barn in SC all the way here to Denver. Replaced fuel lines and sir filter. Reinstalled air box, started right up... DIDNT piss fuel everywhere. But it’s stumbling when you give it gas quickly or come down to idle. Idle seems a touch low, maybe lean? Noticed the pcv hose is cracked. Gonna swap that tomorrow after I grab a new one. Rubber bits are cheap and pretty easy on this thing. So I’ll keep inspecting that stuff until I run out of rubber to replace.

Let it run a few minutes with the fast idle engaged. No more oil leak. No froth in the brand new oil so I think I’m good on this water pump.

Many thanks to euro Moto electric for being open on Sunday. Lifesavers for bmw motorbikes.

Also a big thanks to you guys. A little nudge to say “just install it” was just what I needed. Also picked up some new tires and brake fluid. If I get the fueling right I’ll get my couple rides in before the snow comes.

    

Johnk100lt

Johnk100lt
active member
active member
Oh I should mention, fuel pump internals are new 11 months ago. So between that and this batch of new external hoses, fuel delivery shouldn’t be the issue. That’s why I’m concentrating effort to cracked rubber, especially since it moved from humid SC to dry Denver and has mostly sat this year.

    

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
Well, there is one expensive set of rubber bits that you need to look at - the intake and manifold rubbers either side of the throttle bodies. They usually crack underneath the oetiker clamps.


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'83 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec, '87 K100RT
Others...
'78 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, '79 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,'93 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California
    

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