BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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Mike-the-bike

Mike-the-bike
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Hi All
Does any one have a circuit diagram for a 1983 K100 bulb monitoring unit? Plenty of schematics around but need the actual circuit diagram.
Fortunately I had a spare but the original has failed for the rear brake monitoring and I would like to repair it.

Cheers
Mike

    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

Mike-the-bike

Mike-the-bike
active member
active member
Many thanks, I will see if it ties up with the one I have.

    

Mike-the-bike

Mike-the-bike
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Unfortunately those cct diagrams are totally different to the bulb monitoring unit I have, mine is a very early K100 frame No 0003438

This is what mine looks like.

ULN2003 looks like a NPN Darlington pair array, cant find any info on the coils Clare CUP S 1000
3x 4004 diodes
4x 1uf 63v caps
and I can just see a '48' on one of the other diodes not covered by epoxy
Looks like a 3.3 ohm resistor (orange, orange, gold, gold )


Circuit diagram for bulb monitoring unit 1983 K100 Img_2910

Circuit diagram for bulb monitoring unit 1983 K100 Img_2910
Circuit diagram for bulb monitoring unit 1983 K100 Bulb_m10

    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
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The board layout and components is completely different, I'll give you that,  The three Clare CUP S 1000 devices are reed relays.  Two pins are the NO contacts and the other two contacts are the relay coils.  The diode marked with a 48 might just be a signalling diode like a 1N4148.  Is it glass or plastic?  The 1N4004 diodes are standard.  The ULN2003 is indeed a motor driver IC. What's that piece of black stuff near pin 3 of the IC on the underside?  Dirt or something else?

I'd check the diodes with a ohm meter to make sure none are shorted or open circuit; that they are doing their diode thing.  With the age of the board, I think the electrolytic capacitors are dead and should be replaced with new ones as a matter of course.   If you have the tools and feel confident, you can try and remove the IC and replace it.  You'll need soldering iron, solder wick, and liquid flux.  Take your time and make sure each pin is loose before attempting to yank the chip off.  You don't want to rip up any copper traces.


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
Depending on how much desoldering you think that you'll do in the future, my preference is for one of these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144373686542?epid=12003303625&hash=item219d57a10e:g:MmUAAOSwSLpgLQz-

I've a couple of 'original' Radio Spares ones that have seen service for over 40 years now. I never got on with solder wick.


__________________________________________________
1983 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec, 1987 K100RT
Others...
1978 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, 1979 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,1993 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California
2020 Royal Enfield Bullet 500
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
I would also recommend avoiding the solder wick.  It's okay for removing solder from the metal terminals on switches, but I've damaged too many circuit boards using that stuff. 

I have one of those solder suckers.  The spring loaded vacuum plunger does a great job of instantly pulling the solder out of the joint so you don't have to keep reheating the joint to get the part loose.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1991 K100RS


Past:
1988 K100RS SE
1994 BMW K75S
1992 BMW K100RS
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
My experience has been the opposite.  I have a dedicated Weller desoldering machine on my bench and a variety of solder wick.  I've even owned portable solder suckers like referenced.  My success rate desoldering through-hole and surface mount components using solder wick is greater than with the dedicated machines.  Once the wick has sucked up 90% or more of the solder, pressing the pin using a jeweller screwdriver releases the pin from the board.  It helps a great deal to soak the wick in liquid flux as that promotes solder to wick up quicker and more completely.

But if solder suckers work for you, all the power to you.


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
You mention flux.  I wonder if that is the problem with the solder wick I have around here.  It's very possible that the flux has degraded in the 25 year old spool I have on my bench.  I know it's been pretty difficult to get good solder absorbancy on it for quite a while now.  It seems when I use it I have to overheat the joint to get the solder to flow into the wick, and even then there is always enough solder left to make breaking the joint difficult.

Again, with the demise of Radio Shack, I have been working with my very old inventory of tools and supplies.  I suppose I should get some liquid flux on line.  And to think I used to do business with a company that made solder flux.


__________________________________________________
Present:
1994 K75RT
1991 K100RS


Past:
1988 K100RS SE
1994 BMW K75S
1992 BMW K100RS
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
Suckers of the world UNITE!!!!




Circuit diagram for bulb monitoring unit 1983 K100 44271 Circuit diagram for bulb monitoring unit 1983 K100 44271 Circuit diagram for bulb monitoring unit 1983 K100 44271 Circuit diagram for bulb monitoring unit 1983 K100 44271

(Just thought I'd get there before somebody else did Very Happy )


__________________________________________________
1983 K100 upgraded to K100RS spec, 1987 K100RT
Others...
1978 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, 1979 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,1993 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California
2020 Royal Enfield Bullet 500
    

MartinW

MartinW
Life time member
Life time member
Gryph what about Jaycar? They will deliver and it's free if you spend over $99.00. Amendment, I just had a look at Jaycar USA and they only have 3 stores we've got 5 in a 20 Km range closest is 2.8 Km. We have only one other choice locally Altronics. We've lost Tandy and Dick Smiths which slowly morphed into an appliance store before disappearing.
Regards Martin.



Last edited by MartinW on Sat Jan 22, 2022 6:59 pm; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : added amendment)


__________________________________________________
K75s Hybrid
    

Mike-the-bike

Mike-the-bike
active member
active member
robmack wrote:The board layout and components is completely different, I'll give you that,  The three Clare CUP S 1000 devices are reed relays.  Two pins are the NO contacts and the other two contacts are the relay coils.  The diode marked with a 48 might just be a signalling diode like a 1N4148.  Is it glass or plastic?  The 1N4004 diodes are standard.  The ULN2003 is indeed a motor driver IC. What's that piece of black stuff near pin 3 of the IC on the underside?  Dirt or something else?

I'd check the diodes with a ohm meter to make sure none are shorted or open circuit; that they are doing their diode thing.  With the age of the board, I think the electrolytic capacitors are dead and should be replaced with new ones as a matter of course.   If you have the tools and feel confident, you can try and remove the IC and replace it.  You'll need soldering iron, solder wick, and liquid flux.  Take your time and make sure each pin is loose before attempting to yank the chip off.  You don't want to rip up any copper traces.
Awesome, yes agree the diode could be 1N4149 as they are glass.
Was very proficient in the past working on cct boards, just need to get the eye back in, got solder suckers and all the tools.
Good to know the CUP devices are reed relays.

The black blob on the back of the cct board is resin, will scrape it off to see what's underneath.

So the fun begins, good job this is the spare now.

    

Mike-the-bike

Mike-the-bike
active member
active member
robmack wrote:The board layout and components is completely different, I'll give you that,  The three Clare CUP S 1000 devices are reed relays.  Two pins are the NO contacts and the other two contacts are the relay coils.  The diode marked with a 48 might just be a signalling diode like a 1N4148.  Is it glass or plastic?  The 1N4004 diodes are standard.  The ULN2003 is indeed a motor driver IC. What's that piece of black stuff near pin 3 of the IC on the underside?  Dirt or something else?

I'd check the diodes with a ohm meter to make sure none are shorted or open circuit; that they are doing their diode thing.  With the age of the board, I think the electrolytic capacitors are dead and should be replaced with new ones as a matter of course.   If you have the tools and feel confident, you can try and remove the IC and replace it.  You'll need soldering iron, solder wick, and liquid flux.  Take your time and make sure each pin is loose before attempting to yank the chip off.  You don't want to rip up any copper traces.
Would you happen to have a spec sheet for the CUP S 10008 reed relays? I seem to be able to find every thing else made by CLARE
Cheers

    

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