I should have left well enough alone!

Bike was running great! I had to fiddle.

Did throttle body sync, went well using two bottles. Set number three at turn and a half off bottom. But then idle around 800. Tried to adjust linkage but to get 1000 rpm the adjuster didn't have enough thread, as shown. Now number three cylinder adjusting screw, when I started, was three and a half turns off bottom. So to get idle up a bit I opened all screws another half turn.
Should I resync using three and a half turns off bottom for number three?
What's that little screw for near the cable?
Puzzled!

Got it. Running fine again. I jumped the gun on this post, sorry.

lucki wrote:Got it. Running fine again. I jumped the gun on this post, sorry.

D'ya mind telling us us what was overlooked initially? Otherwise we can delete the post entirely so it's not a question left unanswered for all K Bike eternity.

The saga continues.
Idle speed up did not turn adjuster far enough , goof.
Put the bottles back on today to adjust throttle bodies. Idle at 1000 rpm, fast idle lever off.
Could not get bottles to balance, set #3 at one and a half, two and three would suck bottles dry no matter how you adjusted screws. Even pinched the line between bottles to reduce action vaccum. Must be another issue. Thoughts?

lucki wrote:Did throttle body sync, went well using two bottles. Set number three at turn and a half off bottom. But then idle around 800. Tried to adjust linkage but to get 1000 rpm the adjuster didn't have enough thread, as shown.

I don't see the idle speed adjuster in your photo. I see the increased starting speed ("choke") adjuster. The arrow in one of the attached photographs indicates the idle speed adjusting screw on a k100 as illustrated in the 1988 BMW K100/K75 manual from this site's Tech Page; the other shows a K75 adjuster. You have some readjustment to do.

lucki wrote:The saga continues.
Idle speed up did not turn adjuster far enough , goof.
Put the bottles back on today to adjust throttle bodies. Idle at 1000 rpm, fast idle lever off.
Could not get bottles to balance, set #3 at one and a half, two and three would suck bottles dry no matter how you adjusted screws. Even pinched the line between bottles to reduce action vaccum. Must be another issue. Thoughts?

Sounds to me like a vacuum leak in the bottle on #3 cylinder.  Try swapping the bottles and see if you suck all the fluid from #2.

No vacuum leak in bottles. Used little vide grips on hose that connects bottles to damped fluid transfer. Going on a 200km trip tomorrow so just set it by ear (am deaf). To do this I started on #3 by turning in till I got an engine stumble then opened till smooth. The on to#2 then 1. These bottles had no trouble doing twins and 4cyl bikes.

Sorry about the photo stutter above!

Got the bike warmed up and at 1000rpm then sprayed brake cleaner at the base of each injector. Engine speed increased when base of one and two sprayed three is fine. Is the vacuum leak the o rings on injector or what? Any cheap fix like dealer or?

Sealer not dealer

Leaks between the inlet rubbers and the cylinder head are not uncommon, and pretty much guaranteed if they've been removed and replaced without sealant. The incidence of this occurring is roughly equal to the incidence of owners attacking the Screws Of Death (aka the throttle linkage screws) in an effort to get things right  .

Particularly if the remover didn't clean the top of the engine thoroughly and managed to trap a bit of shite under the inlet rubber when screwing it back on.

I just took a.look with a better.light. You can see a crack in the rubber of #2. Can it be repaired or must I bent over and take it from bmw?

rule number one:
when in doubt, replace all the intake rubber

don't ask me how I know