All good don't worry I'm not a prat   just a yobo that likes to sleep in a swag and drink. 
Halo

Halo wrote:All good don't worry I'm not a prat   just a yobo that likes to sleep in a swag and drink. 
Halo

 
................and also do a bit of work on K bikes......................hurry up and move and get that shed.....my RT is eagerly waiting to come and stay!
 
impatiently yours,

Ahh but your RT has a special place already for it in the workshop there. By the way I drank all of the Bundy last night you left thanks mate   
Halo

Halo wrote:Thanks for the goods words FLoyd_of_oz, yes work & selling & buying a house is the priority right now but all that will change december as I move to a house in the hills with alot less maintenance, that will cut me some slack so I can work on  K bikes again. Anyway with the 84 packed away for the move I have turned my attention to stamp collecting or similar really  magazines with K100 test within. My intention is to scan them and make available online for a read, any copy right issues with 30 year old magazines ?

Halo

I have a copy of the Two wheels K100 from 1984, took it to Tottenham , but forgot to share it around , can mail it to you.if you would like to include it to your pdf

Halo wrote:Ahh but your RT has a special place already for it in the workshop there. By the way I drank all of the Bundy last night you left thanks mate   
Halo

 
Workshop space......yay
 
YOU DRANK my bundy.........................hurtful!!!!!!
 
How could you...............I'm sending a letter of complaint to "MR Daniels"
 
Disappointed indeed......

  

Cheers GroverK that would be great only just saw this response from you now for some reason. I have had another 3 delivered as well, wonder if Bert would give us an area in the forum for bike Mag articles, Charlie ???
Halo

Halo that would be a great idea, I used to buy bike mags to read the write ups on bikes, now would be happy to be able to read the write ups on our bikes. Mind you there is a couple by bike australia that I read for the K75c that I might skip due to they being less than kind. cretins

there may be something happening about this

keep an eye out

Charlie

Yes K75cster agreed, I think it would be a nice way to pass a weekday evening. For all of the tests so far I have stayed with the 1984 magazines, no nasty comments like you mentioned with the Aussie K75 report.
I received a few more again with another three on their way, that will be 12 and rising. Thanks Charlie knew you would try to help 



9 with 3 more ordered  
Andy recons this is stamp collecting material or is it just that now he has a K1200GT he is changing ??? 
Halo

I reckon you should have the job of O'fishel K100-forum libraryian. Think I will have a word in Berts ear.

Thanks Rick G I would love that ordering more mags as we speak because you know I'll not obsessive ?
Halo

Oh and just happen to have two server HP rack computers for the job of hosting  content if required The kind Google use in there computer rooms (just had them lying around ,well don't we all ?)
Halo

Hi Halo,
That June '84 issue of Bike Magazine has the first part of the competition to win a KRS, custom painted by Dream Machine, but the actual KRS wasn't pictured until the July issue with part two of the comp.

That's my bike! I bought it, 28 years ago, from the guy who won it.

Paul.

Wow Paul fantastic I thought I had seen that bike before on the forum.
Halo

Halo wrote:Cheers GroverK that would be great only just saw this response from you now for some reason. I have had another 3 delivered as well, wonder if Bert would give us an area in the forum for bike Mag articles, Charlie ???
Halo

just read this , tis a shame I missed it , your shirts are posted . 
I'll send it to you somehow to include in the research dept.

Cheers GroverK that would be great, all sent magazines will be scanned then returned ASAP(well close too). Thanks for thinking of me with the tshirt as well mate.
Halo

Well with the K100RS 84 packed up for the next house in 7 weeks I have been going crazy not working on the old girls so I turned my attention to the K100RS 86. I really want to spray the 84 madison silver 2 pack as she was delivered to Aus so I thought I would practice the process on the 86.
I went and purchased as shown before the mask for this (amazing I smelt nothing) and the spray suite etc.






Then tried for my first time 2 pack undercoat and instantly fell in love with it. Right off the gun the finish is really glossy and professional looking. I have purchased the white pearl, blue metallic and the 2 pack clear and will try to reproduce the 89 special look. Figure if I can do this 2 tone the 84's madison silver should be easy by comparison.







Halo

Wow! Great job.

Hey guys...paint weekend at Halo's place?

blaKey wrote:Wow! Great job.

Hey guys...paint weekend at Halo's place?

Not sure why you think that should be a question Blakey.

Hey guys...paint weekend and Halo's place!

great work mr halo ....thumbs up

Cheers guys thanks

Looking very good mate!   

OG

Nice and shiny!

Now you'll be the night in shining armor, provided that you have shining armor, of course  

Moved the 84RS to the new house last weekend took the rug off after 6 months in the shed (think six months ?).
Haven,t cleaned her yet but the clear coat looks good except one spot (final drive) that I musn't have cleaned properly before the KBS clear   .

The good









The bad



The current work shops (I know it's not the big shed yet. (Still cleaning from the move)





Another project its a atc200es honda 1983 with a cracked case (quick job)



Anyway should be able to attack the 84 now again, work has tapered off and the moving is done
Halo

Wow, looks like you've got a ton of garage space mate!      Nice!  What size compressor did you use to shoot the old parts?

OG

Cheers OG it's a twin pot and makes the single phase lights dim when it switches on that's all I know (don't know the CFM rating ?)
Pulled out the exhaust off the 84RS after it had been sitting for six months since I cleaned it up and used some chrome polish , now ready to mount.
Before
 


After the metal polish ( six months tarnish removed)





Halo

My May 84 K100 RS.
I've owned my May 84 K 100, from new and it was in a much "better" condition to start. It's now up and running, visual condition fair. I can only explain to fellow members the thrill in riding after it was unused for so long. To just open the throttle and go; great. 
Still I have a problem. I have no idea how the Fuel Level Sensor works and the connection in the tank. I did a silly thing, I dropped it, the bike and creased the fuel tank. I intend to replace the fuel tank when the winter arrives and I will strip, clean and respray. I have discovered that there are many different types of tank, mine has one fixing bolt at rear and I have bought a replacement for £38. My problem is the fuel sensor, 4 and 7L, is a black vertical tube; no manual explains how it works and/or gives a wiring diagram up to the 4 pin  plug. In 85 they replaced the sensor with, what I call, toilet type with a float and arm; these I can understand, but not the one I've got!
Sorry don't seem able to transfer a photo ... next time?
Qinghai    Hugh

85 and earlier Fuel Level Sender:

Brown - Ground

Green/White - Fuel Pump Power

Brown/White  - 4L indicator in instrument cluster

Brown/Black - 7L indicator in instrument cluster

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but it's my understanding that the 4 & 7 sensors are at different heights(lengths).  When submerged in fuel, they are kept cool by the fuel around them.  When the gas becomes low, they are exposed to air and heat up which completes a circuit and sends some sort of signal to the cluster via the Brown/White and Brown/Black wires.  My GUESS is that it's a ground signal since the main color for both wires is brown.

Brilliant work on the exhaust.

 

I think your understanding of how the 4L/7L low fuel sensor works is generally correct. I've seen a technical description somewhere in my past, but I can't find it now.

That sensor is no longer available from BMW. I'd like to know what can be done to repair one if it needs it.

Regards

tgolden wrote:I think your understanding of how the 4L/7L low fuel sensor works is generally correct. I've seen a technical description somewhere in my past, but I can't find it now.

That sensor is no longer available from BMW. I'd like to know what can be done to repair one if it needs it.

Regards

There was a previous discussion here that may be helpful. Don't forget to click the link in CF's post for lots more great info.

There is also this link about the float type of sensor.

klamityboy wrote:

tgolden wrote:I think your understanding of how the 4L/7L low fuel sensor works is generally correct. I've seen a technical description somewhere in my past, but I can't find it now.

That sensor is no longer available from BMW. I'd like to know what can be done to repair one if it needs it.

Regards

There was a previous discussion here that may be helpful. Don't forget to click the link in CF's post for lots more great info.

There is also this link about the float type of sensor.

Thank you for that information. It appears that the early type fuel level sensor could be repaired if needed.

Regards

duck wrote:85 and earlier Fuel Level Sender:

Brown - Ground

Green/White - Fuel Pump Power

Brown/White  - 4L indicator in instrument cluster

Brown/Black - 7L indicator in instrument cluster

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but it's my understanding that the 4 & 7 sensors are at different heights(lengths).  When submerged in fuel, they are kept cool by the fuel around them.  When the gas becomes low, they are exposed to air and heat up which completes a circuit and sends some sort of signal to the cluster via the Brown/White and Brown/Black wires.  My GUESS is that it's a ground signal since the main color for both wires is brown.

Magic; just what the doctor ordered.
My next question, ignore if I'm being a pain, have you devised a method of testing outside of the tank?
Qinghai Hugh

tgolden wrote:

klamityboy wrote:

tgolden wrote:I think your understanding of how the 4L/7L low fuel sensor works is generally correct. I've seen a technical description somewhere in my past, but I can't find it now.

That sensor is no longer available from BMW. I'd like to know what can be done to repair one if it needs it.

Regards

There was a previous discussion here that may be helpful. Don't forget to click the link in CF's post for lots more great info.

There is also this link about the float type of sensor.

Thank you for that information. I appears that the early type fuel level sensor could be repaired if needed.

Regards

Thanks will look up CF's post.
Regards

um ....  there is a distinct concentration of the components within the tube that holds the electronics ,,,, with a little careful observation (unless you have gunk all over the sender externals...quite likely  ) 

you should be able to dip the sender in a cup full of fuel

given the tank is empty  

and see some changes depending on the depth of the sensor in the fuel ????

there is a few photos of that sensor in the forum

perhaps use the search utility ?

Qinghai wrote:

duck wrote:85 and earlier Fuel Level Sender:

Brown - Ground

Green/White - Fuel Pump Power

Brown/White  - 4L indicator in instrument cluster

Brown/Black - 7L indicator in instrument cluster

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but it's my understanding that the 4 & 7 sensors are at different heights(lengths).  When submerged in fuel, they are kept cool by the fuel around them.  When the gas becomes low, they are exposed to air and heat up which completes a circuit and sends some sort of signal to the cluster via the Brown/White and Brown/Black wires.  My GUESS is that it's a ground signal since the main color for both wires is brown.

Magic; just what the doctor ordered.
My next question, ignore if I'm being a pain, have you devised a method of testing outside of the tank?
Qinghai Hugh

Never tried to test one out of the tank but the suggestion of putting in and out of a cup of fuel sounds logical.  I'd be probably use water instead of fuel though.

Prior to applying power to the green/white and ground to the brown, it would probably be a good idea to tape over the fuel pump power terminals to avoid causing an inadvertent short.

Then try submerging/exposing the sensors while measuring the resistance between the ground going in and the sensor terminals coming out. My guess would be that once a sensor kicks in the resistance should from something very high (or infinity - open circuit) to something very low, possibly zero - a closed circuit.

Then be sure to post up your results.

Duck's description is right. The tube is easily opened and you can see the two elements for the two levels. There are some good pictures around.

I would not test it in water, as there are open solder jobs.

ReneZ wrote:Duck's description is right. The tube is easily opened and you can see the two elements for the two levels. There are some good pictures around.

I would not test it in water, as there are open solder jobs.

Good point.

It would be good to know the physical fuel level on the sensor tube for 7L & 4L and then check the relative position of the two thermistors within the sensor tube. Perhaps the position of the thermistors can be shifted in the sensor tube to enable the sensor to report more accurate information.

If you could find two O-rings to slide onto the sensor tube, then add four liters of accurately measured fuel into an empty tank, the lowest level O-ring could be positioned at the fuel level. Than add three liters of fuel and adjust the higher level O-ring to the corresponding fuel level. Drain the tank, remove the sensor and measure the distance of the two O-rings from a reference datum.

This is an interesting subject that deserves its own thread with good pictures of sensor tube disassembly.

Regards

My fuel sender has a broken thermistor for one of the levels which I have to fix at some soon stage.

Purchased this bearing puller which worked on the wheel bearings of the honda atc200 but can't get it to grip on the K100 wheel due to the inner spacer.



 Any ideas guys of what the go is ?

Halo

The inner spacer has two thin metal rings which centre it and if you get a big lever ans insert it about 1/2 way into the bearing spacer ,give it a sharp pull and the thin metal pieces will collapse then you can get a drift in to knock the bearing out.  After you get them out straighten the thin metal spacers and put it back in but grind a half circle out of the spacer so as to not have to damage it again when the next bearing change comes round.

This link could also become useful:

https://www.k100-forum.com/t2431-how-to-removing-front-wheel-bearings

so what happened with the rest of this bike?

It all went bad, I have had corrosion come to play since and it's all under that KBS rock hard coating , should have oven baked parts first as there was still moister in the parts , I sprayed in dry warm area but parts where left in shed in winter between sand blasting and spraying and the moist air finish is causing corrosion under the clear coat. What to do ? , I have stripped back to the engine and found that citrus based paint stripper can lift it but its really slow. I just can't spray silver as it is growing 3D under the surface once the clear coat is lifted off the corrosion just wipes off fine.



 

blast that's a bugga halo

commiserations old mate

Hi Charlie started this today again before finding out about Rossco, he was always a great advocate for this restore for me, he used to say I'm convincing the others your not some crazy obsessive restorer and a normal bloke come up for a ride to meet them so they know I'm right about you he would say to me, so I did.

I would love to resurrect this for him/me, I used to call Rossko several times a month when I was working on this , Rossko was always on my back to finish this instead of stuffing around with the K100/K1100 I did instead of this. I would like to make amends for him, my way to deal with his loss.
I was ready to put the fluids in and start the bike, Rossko suggested we should have a meet with other for the starting of the engine. I moved on to the other bike and never did start the engine with him, in retrospect it leaves a nasty lump in my throat.

Got any ideas on how to lift the KBS old mate.
:- sand blasting ?
:- talk to supplier of KBS ?
:- you can see where the stripper lifted the KBS in one photo but it took forever

What sort of stripper are you suggesting?

Been using a citrus type