Yes I must buy a scratched up set and try that would be a good project
Look back last Page for latest photos

Mine are Givi but the square ones from the right era and as tough as old boots but a bit scratched.

magic results halo mate ...

Tonight I continued the plastic spraying theme by degreasing scrubbing, sanding and spraying the airbox, I'm now getting the hang of the spray cans very different application compared to the spray gun that I have become used to. The ultrasonic cleaner always comes in handy for the stainless clips etc.



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wow !!!

Thanks Charlie I'll have to do all of the bikes plastic parts now

Your finishes are really quite amazing...good work and thanks for sharing. Keith

Thanks Kfilipow I get a buzz out of trying to do everything myself and not out sourcing the work, its the learning that's fun.

Halo wrote:Hi Erman, they tell me that the spray paints do affect the heat dissapation as even though it's water cooled they rely on the radial fins on the sump to dissapate heat as well the power coating process being the worst, you could use acrylic black or clear, I use a KBS system as explained in few pages back. Heres the picture you wanted I hope this helps.
The case sealent I use is this one, purchased from motobins in the UK but no doubt you could source locally

Wow, thanks! I know now that I can take off the crank cover without dropping the crank on the ground
I got a tube of Hylo and a tube of Permatex grey. I tried to put Hylo on the exterior of the case to stop some minor leakage, but it just hardened and fell off. Maybe if it were allowed to set in dry state.. Anyway thanks, and great job on the platics btw!

Hi Erman very funny , you should drain the oil and remove the cover, clean the surfaces with fine wet and dry sand paper on a flat block then clean with acetone or similar to remove oil etc., then use your permiflex as per the I structions and torque to the settings in the manual (in this sites download section)

Wow Halo......great finish on the air box...looks minted!

SMOKIN''!!!!

88

My new found friend for awhile is my $49 grinder with a brass wheel. Redid all the bolts on the engine and it's given them all a new lease on life( then clear coated).





Now totally finished the engine,torqued up the clutch flywheel, new plugs, filters etc and are ready to bolt the transmission on. Clear coated the injectors after using the bench grinder with brass wheel. I had to clean out cylinder 4 pretty well after a wasped nest was found in it after all those years of sitting. Engine left with the exhaust valve open .

omg ...looks super halo ..

great work mate

I am stunned at how well your bike is coming along halo, very impressive....

Just one thing when you come to connect the wiring harness up for the injectors.... injector 3 the clearance is very slim for the injector plug to fit on, I had to loosen my rail in order to get it to fit.

This thread is a hell of a read - and what a cracking job you've made of your restoration. The attention to detail is immaculate. If I can get my bike looking a fraction as good as your's, I'll be delighted.

Well done! An excellent effort!

Brilliant stuff Halo, another forum indepth project "great"



BIG D

Thanks to all of you for your positive encouragement, the engine completion is abit of a milestone for me. I am very interested to see how the rest will come up with the same effort.

Halo

The helicoil kit arrived so I was able to repair my stripped thread & reassemble the gearbox.



I then turned my attention to the clutch reassembly. Optimal paste was used for the spline and all touching/mating parts, new clutch pad inserted and centered with clutch tool.





Clutch bolts cleaned and clear coated and torqued to the correct setting



The gearbox was then bolted on to the engine (still doing so, called it a night)

Fantastic progress Halo.

I bet you're keen to see the frame dropped down over that little lot!

I gave my bolts the same treatment but didn't clear coat them which was a mistake, expecially in this climate. I'll be pulling them and doing them again in the winter methinks.

88KE

Did you put grease on the diaphragm spring where it touches the wire ring and carrier.

If dry they may rattle when in neutral with clutch out, my k100 did it.

Thanks 88KE I learnt that lesson early on as the first part I cleaned was the alternator and now it's oxidized horribly after 6 months.

Yes Rick G I did lube the diaphram spring got advice though if I hadn't I would be pulling it apart and lubricating after that pearl of wisdom.

Halo

Guys how hard do you need to push the drive shaft in to get it to click onto the transmission output shaft ? Do you require much force as I am redisent to push it too hard (havent used much force yet haynes manual says it should just click in by pushing but I have my doubts it is that easy)
Halo

Halo wrote:Guys how hard do you need to push the drive shaft in to get it to click onto the transmission output shaft ? Do you require much force as I am redisent to push it too hard (havent used much force yet haynes manual says it should just click in by pushing but I have my doubts it is that easy)
Halo

Give it a good thump with a block of wood it'll go on.

+ 1 rick

give it a good thump halo

Thanks guys shall do, say ello to my little friend mr 4 by 2
Tell you what you two when I finish my bike one day in the far distance I am comming up with my swag to drop in to visit. I will take two weeks off work. I have done the trip up there before when i had an fzr750r

Halo

wow ...yes indeed halo ...looking forward to it .....youll have to take in one of our fabulous ride events too huh ? next one is november ol mate . but by no means, will be the last.

i think the irish mob have just got a wiff of the fantasic comeradreie that our old bikes exude amongst fellow enthusiasts ...

you just have to experience riding through a country town amongst a mob of our old machines . the purr the pride and the sideways looks of awe and appreciation by the locals .....

shoot we dont have to go through "guns blazing" (read shotgun exhausts etc ) ...just the silent but throaty motor with that "ring of twin overhead cam chain twang " below 3k and that 'presence of "fairing " that remind so many of "police bikes" (to them ) around and about ...

we had 10 'k"s at araluen ......and looking like 10 at "bingara" hope you can join in ...if not for this one ...the next ?

Yes Charlie Bingara next year or equivilent in Nov sounds like a good deadline for me to have her ship shape and ready to be up there

Charlie.....I don't have a fairing on K3....the one in your photo......am I still allowed to be part pf the gang? Oh, I have a round eye instead of a rectangular one....two strikes against me.

all good stan . qualifies on so many levels ol mate ..

Wow, I'm outta the loop for a bit and you've nearly finished the bike!?! Seriously, mate really outstanding work!

OG

Hey OG really good to hear from you on the forum again, what's been happening in your life lately?. Thanks for the praise coming from you and your effort its a real complement. Your thread was the first one when I read when I joined this forum and it still blows me away. I wish it was true about your comment on nearly finishing but I have along way to go still for instance the sand blasting on the frame has already had a day spent on it and l am only half finished. I hope now that I have finished the engine things will move quicker now it was very fiddly to do and took a lot of reading in the manual.
Good to hear from you mate
Jason

Yeah, mate I've been rehabing an injury so I've not had any free time for play with work and all. Doing the blasting can definitely be a tedious job, but the results are always worth it! I'm looking forward to seeing you do the frame and the plastic as I've not done mine yet.

OG

Had a chance during the week to do a few parts on the bike, I did the BM logo on the cam cover. I like the KBS clear but don't know how the KBS black will progress with the rest of the restoration. Did the gear select levers and the swing arm and polish the bolts etc. Theres some tarnishes under some parts of the transmission but it will stay for now.

Took a pic of the sun rise today just to mix it up abit.


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Alternator cases next to clear tommorrow




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That's a really clean looking work.

Saxon7 wrote:That's a really clean looking work.

+1

If I got mine that clean I think I'd be afraid to ride it!

Super pics Halo

88

Thanks 88, though it will get dirty next year as l plan to take it up to the Queensland meet next November.
Saxon l love that picture of your dog with the goggles it was my windows wall paper on my screens at work this week
Halo

Halo, you make visitors wear white suits when they come into your shop? Your parts look aerospace clean. Nice stuff. keith

Halo wrote:Thanks 88, though it will get dirty next year as l plan to take it up to the Queensland meet next November.
Saxon l love that picture of your dog with the goggles it was my windows wall paper on my screens at work this week
Halo

Stop it mate...she already thinks she's a photo model!

[quote="Saxon7
Stop it mate...she already thinks she's a photo model![/quote]

Yep....ain't that a bitch?

She's a bitch alright.....
She's even go the sideways alluring look down...

Thanks for the compliment Keith, Great picture Saxon and chicks wonder why dogs are a mans best friend aye.

Sprayed the alternator parts today, came up pretty good funny though how spraying is a continous learning curve for me.







Halo

Reassembled the alternator and made a silly mistake by using a race just slightly larger than the shaft and it hit the key, was able to salvage fairly easily the rubbers also need replacing.











Halo

Finished off the alternator parts and sprayed the engine cowling now it's on to the final drive seal replacement, once completed the drive train will be finished. How easy it is to get the large final drive bearing out to replace the large seal ?.

You don`t need to disturb the bearing, if you just need to change the seal.

Great I didnt know that thanks thats a small blessing.

Thought I would try to restore something else for a change so I tried some of the switch gear
Thanks Inge k I will do that next I couldnt find the link but you havw donw for me great help.



Tried the following products with the air compressor buffer, a buffing wheel on the bench grinder will be better. I have found it is better to bring your work to the grinder rather than the grinder to the work.

WOW, you have some fine results there for your labours I cant wait for the next instalment. Those helicoil kits are great I have a few of those myself made in Aus as well.

BIG D

The grey color you see on the plastic is oxidation from sun exposure.
I find Pledge is doing a fantastic job and I am using it on every plastic parts on the bike.
I tried PlastX before, but find that is too fine and it takes a long time to obtain a good result. with Pledge, you spray it, wait for few seconds and wipe it with a soft cloth. No need to buff

Here is another tip particularly good for cleaning the plastic lenses on the car headlights:

In a dish, make a solution of paste-style toothpaste (no gel), and stir in baking soda until a gritty substance has formed. Use a brush or cloth to apply this to the headlights, and buff until all film and residue has been removed. Wipe clean with a damp cloth to collect any excess film or cleaning solution residue, and repeat as often as necessary to keep headlights looking their best.

CF

Crikey! That's a good job. I have two switchblocks that look about the same as your 'before' shots. To be honest I thought they'd be doomed. Might have a go at them now!

We already have a thread on this subject in the 'how to' section. Check it here.