We already have a thread on this subject in the 'how to' section. Check it here.

Yes Big D me too the frame will be finished next after the FD seal then the loom, im thinking dishwasher for that with finish. The helicoil kits are fantastic to use funny though mins come from England.
CF what would your flock do with your guidence, great advice on the Pledge will order some, I particulary like the baking soda idea I think I will put that to some use.
Saxon I'm with you I thought they were gone as well and was going to order some from Motobins but you can easily do this just with the Autosol and a buffer & half an hour of your time just do it on the bike.
Halo

Replaced the FD seal tonight taking the old one out wasn't as hard as I anticipated I used a small drill piece very little mess and then just levered it off fairly easily.



The planetery gears and the pinion gear/splines looked in good condition.







I Then lubed the splines/ pinion shaft.
Its amazing how good nick all the big ticket items have been.
The old girl may have been crusty when I found her but all bits in good mechanical condition.




And then inserted into the rest of the drive train.



Will tighten up the FD tommorrow as it's past my bedtime



.

Wow

+1 rossco ...wow indeed !

Although I am a bit disappointed that the bolt heads for the rocker cover are not in alignment.
And the screw on the 4th throttle body is about 2deg off alignment.
I know you are trying your best Halo, but it is these little attentions to detail that impress.
And if you strip a few threads along the way or don't quite meet the torque settings don't worry. It is all about the aesthetics.

Outstanding work Halo... How you gunnalift it offbench or is this th
At one to one scale model you mentioned??

top job
careful you dont smash the beer mug

Hold on! ....Somethings not right there!

Follow these intructions to the letter to correct the situation:

1. locate a small block of wood.
2. Locate an ice cold beer.
3. Swap beer mug for wooden block.
4. Pour beer.
5. Take a step back.
6. Take a swig of Ice cold beer.
7. Admire handiwork.

There! that's all better Halo!


88

88KE now that is the right solution, i hope halo has an engine hoist to get it to the floor, wouldn't want to rely on atrophy

Gee Col & 88KE just as well the wife hasn't seen the photos she wouldn't be happy about the beer mug. It's been so cold in the shed that my drink of choice has been slivervics.

Good to see you are paying attention Rossco, as I said in my introduction want to both cosmetically and mechanically restore the Old Girl. I have put in a good go mechanically as well which has attributed to the additional time taken, the engine and gearbox as stated previously are fiddly with all the tourque settings, glue types required etc. It is my first project though so when it comes to the testing stage who knows what we may find, but I feel as if it should be alright.

Yes Alby thinking it's more than my neighbour and I can carry by ourselves (his not a big bloke), I may have to wait till I can get 3 people. I arranged my little shed around again to accomodate the next stage of the rebuild.

Charlie I hope you are feeling better



The next part to complete is the frame.



Set up my monitor as a TV as well, my little tin shed is becomming more like a room now.

Halo,

It may sound a bit on the mad side.... however when you come to take the engine off the bench It could work best to put the frame onto the engine along with the shock which should give a lot of places to hold onto....

(You had probably thought of that already mind!)

No actually Twin Carb I hadn't smashing idea

TC had a great idea to move the engine by putting the frame on first however I had an opportunity with others to move iher today into the newly reclaimed garden tool section of the shed.

I'm thinking of leaving the bike on the small table set up for the majority of the remaining rebuild. I have now strapped the block to the bench.



The wooden post now has to go this weekend and the addition of another three banks of fluro fixtures with LED globes (boy they are fantastic for pure white light).

Alby I will try to order a model kit K100 today I'm thinking it might be a good hobby.



Halo

A little help please, I started dismantling the forks and even whilst heating up the lower clamps I could not get the forks to move up all . Parts look crusty as usual but should turn out alright.

give a squirt of possum piss and leave overnite or a bigger hammer

Might be able to drive a hardwood wedge into the slot and open it a tad, they are always a very snug fit.

aluminium kinda grows a little with corrosion halo .

as col suggests maybe little penetrating fluid overnight ...maybe a clean off of the remainder of the forks with a stainless scrubber might help with the remainder of the forks as you try to lift off mate ?

im guessing a "good tap " with a big hammer (with some softwood on the top of the fork as a buffer) .....(supporting the clamp on something like a saw horse) could help create some moovement through the lower tripple clamp

dang that motor assembly looks fantastic

Your Right Charlie, I did as Col & RG suggested but it still wont budge. It looks like I have moved them before (along time ago) without cleaning off the krud first on the forks and now the kruds under the lower clamps. I notice when I use a block off wood as a buffer and hit the fork tops there is bonce back due to the top fork internal assyembly which I think I will remove first then give them a really big hit.

I need to look at a rear shock next and have my eye on this but ouch pricy about $600 but looks really good

A RAM shock would be a cheaper alternative, it`s a lot of satisfied owners around.

I think Rick is one of them.

http://www.realmengineering.com/page15.html

the engine, trans and drive line look amazing! makes me want to do the same to mine, but I'm having too much fun riding it!
the excellent pictures are a great archive for others to rebuild, thanks for posting!

I put a RAM on the K100 not long before I sold it and it was by far the best I have ever had for general road work. I just didnt even notice its presence the ride was great and road holding terrific. I have a KONI on the K1100 and have been considering changing to a RAM.
For value you wont go past it.

Thanks Inge K & RG wow if you would swop it out from a koni they must be good will have a serious look.

Thanks for your comments wngnutmv it's been abit of work but highly rewarding at the same time. A long way to go still, yes the temptation to cut corners and just ride plays on my mind often but I have gone down this path and will continue.

On that subjuct my wife has agreed for me to purchase a classic bike from my past next year (since I am getting old and nostalgic) inwhich I will just buy in perfect nick from Aussie or England (one restore at a time is enough), my all time bestest thing except for the k100 of coarse. They are almost 20K now for a really good one. (thats my limit)

Nice!. . .
both the Yamaha and your wife (from the sound of it).

Wow! Your missus sounds fantastic!
Re: The penetrating fluid, I once did a comparison test with RP7, WD40 and Inox on some rusted wheel nuts on a boat trailer. Spraying and leaving overnight, the Innox won hands down. The others had virtually no effect, yet whatever elements the Inox contains...maybe the lanolin..., makes it much more penetrative and effective.
Just my 2 szloty worth.
Sean.

Thanks Saxon & wngnutmv don't worry the deal is that the whole house requires painting first and it's big and high off the ground, we just had an agreeement so I will get on with it, will eat into my K100 time though.

Anyway still came out trumpths so I can't complain she has her good moments as well.

Halo

halo, twb had a remote resevoiur type shock in his bits and pieces ...a fox twin clicker from memory

i can highly recommend those units

might be worthy of a pm ?

About penetrating fluid: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2365.msg13112.html#new

Thanks Inge K great link , Charlie your a wealth of knowledge as usual by Twb you mean twin carb right ?

Halo

Who Charlie has in mind is Two Wheels Better.

Thanks will do a PM

Finally was able to get the front forks off by putting the forks upside down and with a wooden buffer hitting the lower clamps.



Was able to remove the center post in the way, add the led lights and get all of the parts up off the bottom deck ready for the next stage.

Absolutely beautiful work. I am inspired.

Thanks BadgerJim I'm hoping the thread serves well to others that haven't gone down this path yet.
Looking at the fairing parts etc the bike was silver first and that's the color I want to complement the clear gloss parts on the engine. Question is guys how far back do you sand, all past the red and back to the silver?
Halo

Go back as far as you can. Ionly went back as far as the chips on the K1100 and ran into big problems with the other coats shrinking after the finishing clear was applied.
Not the just applied coats but ones that were years old. Very wide cracks opened under the new coat but didn't crack the new coat. Some of the paint is the eviro friendly crap that is water based and it doesn't like the solvent based paint.
It happend particulary on the plastic parts like the sidecovers and 2 peice front guards.
I had 9 coats of colour on my front guard plus all the undercoats and basecoats, it took all day and the tips of 2 fingers to sand it off but once I got back to the bare plastic I got a good finish.

Halo, I have a plan. I will send down my bike parts and you can practice on them. Its only a few bits. Tank, side covers, tail, front guard and radiator cowl.
You can rub them as much as you like.
Based on the quality of your other work, even a practice run over my bits (no sexual reference intended) would be as good as I could manage on a serious attempt.

Ah, there's the rub, oops, what I mean is that Rick is right. The quality and chemistry of the previous paint/paints may well varied. Cracks suddenly appear or disappear and the temperature of the atmosphere etc do make a difference. Rub back to the bare plastic etc if possible. The undercoat/ filler should be given a week to cure before rub back begins.

Cool thanks for the wise advice guys will take all coats off by the sounds of it. Can you use paint stripper?
Rossco I have never sprayed panels before so don't know they might come up crap first time.
Has anyone thought of forgetting about acrylic paint and doing two pack themselves with a cheap positive pressure spray suit. Or one piece polyurethane?
Halo

I am doing two pack

The large container is the undercoat and the small is the hardener. Of course you add thinners to the combination. How much of each depends on the conditions when you paint. That is why I have a mate who was a spray painter guiding me through and telling me what to do and sometimes where to go. He is a bloody perfectionist and won't allow me to take short cuts that I have taken for years.
If you go down the two pack be aware that the paint can get very expensive.....but you get something that should last and look the part.

Thanks for the photo & thoughts I appreciate it, sounds like the path to go down for me but i here its very toxic
Halo

I went down to the "spray booth" today and you are right....still many fumes about, even 2 days later.

I'm with roscco...your practice painting would be far better than my serious go at it!

Get another motor to put in your bike. Stick the motor you have now in a glass case and use it in your lounge room as a coffee table.

10 out of 10 on your rebuild. I bet you don't even use the bike when it's finished. You'll sit on it and make "vroom vroom" noises.

Jeez, I would!

Could not have said it better Blakey.

Vroom vroom indeed.

Whats wrong with doing that its all I can do at the moment.

Come on Rick. You only got one vroom. Any five year old knows you have to turn both hands on the grips to get a vroom vroom. Plaster = vroom

Hey Halo.... your at the messy stage now then! I tried chemical and found that it just didn't work for me... I ended up sanding back with a random sander starting with a course grade and then finishing off at 320G (which is what the painters wanted it sanded to) They were surprised when it took me a week before I turned back up they thought I was only going to key the surface....

With the prep done the result was incredible.... I think a flap disk may be a bit harsh on an angle grinder but it may not be to bad on a orbital sander... the tank I would just use a flap disk on just avoid cutting into the metal!

Don't use a chemical striper on anything plastic or fibreglass it can cause some big damage, even on an aluminium tank it can cause some extreme etching.
When I did mine I bought a heap of wet/dry 240 and did it all by hand and used a rubber rubbing block where ever I could. I had no finger prints and no nails worth talking of and a heap of used bandaids.

Boy that's dedication to the sanding guys great advice too. Sounds like just plenty of hard work and saw hands.
Problem I have is normally I would prep and get someone else to spray but I want to do it all myself for this restore if I can so I can see potentially a whole heap of work being done on the prep coats and then a big f up on the final. Anyway think I will go to the motor bike wreckers and just purchase some old fairing parts off any old bike and practice.
Halo

aye ! a good idea halo

thought about a big round headlight and backshell or some thing ?

that kinda stuff could be handy in the future

I bought the rub back wet/dry....600grit. I can assure you that your fingerprints will disappear from your hands, especially using the wet. I am hoping that my hands recover before next weekend...I cut my fingers getting the broken lights off my ute. I do know that thinners will find ALL cuts.