Thanks Inge K I will do just that thanks for your help again.

Halo

Errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Part #8 has provision for 5 rubber blocks but part#10 only has room for 4. Thats why I don't trust haynes. That and many other instances I saw while restoring the pictures to put them into pdf so they are clear.

Which is a better manual to use then Rick G

Clymers or the OEM. As TWB said some time ago Haynes is good it says to fix the engine jack up bike fix engine and test ride.

Thanks I've been using the Hynes so far for the whole resto

Haynes is not all bad but after seeing a few things like that drawing I just dont feel I can really trust them.
Mind I did a Z1300 Kawasaki manual some time ago and it was just as bad and was Factory. It was for the very first of the 1300 six and much of it was fixed in later versions. Some of the spelling mistakes were a real laugh.

Hey Halo, I can send you a copy of the Clymers manual if you want. You can keep it as long as you want too.

blakey wrote:Hey Halo, I can send you a copy of the Clymers manual if you want. You can keep it as long as you want too.

For your information, manuals are available to forum members.
Login to the download page and happy reading.

CF

I had a break for a week then put her back together almost to the same point again, this time double checking everything. The german manual was good with the torque settings by the photos instead of going to the start of the chapter and guessing which is which from the descriptions as with the Haynes Manual.

I went to the local BMW dealer for new oil and water orings (Should really have replaced first time round) for inside the case & pump. He seems to think all early axillary drive shafts go faulty not if but when (100K mark apparently, mine has 97K if the speedo is working) and that since I went so far back in I should change, well I will take the risk.

Old water oring inside the block old read 2.08mm new read 2.4mm on the calipers



Yes see Rossco I missed abit, must have been low on kitten tears that day



Progress to date (It's all dusty, better than the best part of 30 years grime though)



Halo

That bike is looking great, Halo. Can't wait to see the finished article all assembled and ready for the road. You've done a great job!

Put some more time in, purchased / installed all new fuel & vacum hoses last night





Halo

Still looking good Halo. I wish I had taken the time to paint my plastic parts.

Question, what is the hose from the throttle body on the left ( when looking at the photo) to the block?

Is that an '84 thing?

I don't remember doing that on my bike.

rossco

yeah there is a vacume switch on 84 s rossco ...sits behind the tbs ...it can safely be remooved

Not a lot of travel in those forks. New springs would be an idea.

The fork travel is about euqal to the rim size (close to nothing).

Wow, looking great!

Halo, what brand of mini bike is that? Making nice progress on the K, won't be long before you will be on the road.

fox rebuild seal kit on its way halo ..

Yes still a lot of parts not on yet guys but thinking should be more productive now that I have finished with the circlip ordeal
The mini bike is an interesting one Steve as I considered it to be a write off when I came across it but now it looks like a juicy restoration & with history. The engine is from the rarest NSU moped the 63 to 65 NSU quick not the quickly as NSU redesigned the power plant however they then turned all there efforts to the rotary engine which sent them broke in warranty jobs they were brought out by AUDI and VW
As it turns out from countless hours searching the Internet it was an 1968 to 1970 MAVERICK made in Asia but for one version they used the NSU motor then later Yamaha.
So since I was born in 1968 I think it's appropriate to resto
Charlie thanks heaps will PM you when it's arrives
Halo

Well the Clymer manual arrived from Blakey and it's fantastic mate thanks . Can't put it down as looks heaps better than the PDF's I have been using. Don't get me wrong the PDF's are great but there is nothing like a paper back version.

halo

onya blakey ...good stuff

hes a good man huh ?

Got to say there is definetly good people on this forum and their help has been outstanding Charlie yourself included

Halo

Hey Halo,

I understand exactly how you felt when you realised you had to strip the bike apart again... How do I know well following struggling to get mine running smooth, I did a compression test with Cylinder 4 at 0psi.... and 3 at 90 odd.... injected some oil and 3 went to 120, and 4 increased by a huge margin.
So strip of the engine was needed I took out all 4 pistons and replaced all of the piston rings. cyl 1,3 and 4 now showing 150psi and 2 is 140psi. I have got to say it was a pita getting the pistons back in with the rings particularly the middle ring which on most attempts of compressing them decided it wanted to rotate round and not stay with the pin.... I hope that the 10 psi missing on cyl 2 isn't caused by another ring problem.
I took the opportunity to also replace the timing chain. She is sounding so much quieter now which is good. The only issue I am left with is pinking at higher revs and a high idle... which I am guessing is a timing issue...

Wow TwinCarb makes my ordeal look small compared to that one :silent: what a Sh*t of a card to be delt but good to see you got through it alright , whats 10psi between friends.

Got a chance to put a few more parts on last night, she is starting to look more like a bike again rather than just an engine.







Halo

You've certainly come a long way, Halo, I've just been back to page 1 to remind myself of where you started! Take away the background and it could be on the production line 28 years ago. (although it probably wasn't quite so clean then)

And I've only just noticed that you have the very early rear drive casting with the narrow centre rib, nice, I've never seen one before.

Cheers,

Paul.

Thanks Paul yes i'm glad it's the very early one, it's still a leaded version so I will have to run the lead substitute.

Halo

Hi Halo,

Your bike is looking fantastic, I have enjoyed reading all the posts you have put on and the support from other members. I also have the 84 RS does that mean that mine is also the leaded version?

Kgirl

Kgirl,

Give us the last 7 digits of your bike's VIN # and we will tell you everything about your it (almost).
It's always good to include it into your signature.

CF

Nice Halo.
A bloke goes away for a little weekend ride and you half the bike back together.
Good job mate.

rossco

kgirl wrote:I also have the 84 RS does that mean that mine is also the leaded version?

K100RS unleaded fuel from chassis number 0 081 107
(Euro models, change was early -85).

Inge K. wrote:

kgirl wrote:I also have the 84 RS does that mean that mine is also the leaded version?

K100RS unleaded fuel from chassis number 0 081 107
(Euro models, change was early -85).

Thanks Inge K, my chassis number is 0 019 086 so unleaded it is. Sorry Halo I didn't mean to butt in to your post.

kgirl

kgirl I use premium unleaded on 86 model RS get better economy and more grunt

kgirl wrote:Thanks Inge K, my chassis number is 0 019 086 so unleaded it is. kgirl

Your bike is a K100RS model 1983 (European).
it was built in July 1984.
Most of the parts are compatible with the 84/85 K100rt.

CF

Crazy Frog wrote:

kgirl wrote:Thanks Inge K, my chassis number is 0 019 086 so unleaded it is. kgirl

Your bike is a K100RS model 1983 (European).
it was built in July 1984.
Most of the parts are compatible with the 84/85 K100rt.

CF

Great thanks Crazy Frog

Hey Kgirl yes you have an early one as well, well done these are the special ones .

Well I have got all the fluids etc and are ready now to fill her up, (just went to the BMW shop and used what he recommended). Just a few things stopping me from running her yet like er maybe a fuel tank and wheels and dash, well it's still not going to stop me from filling her up it's another mile stone as far as I am concerned.



Halo.

Go go gadget oil filler.

You would be surprised how little you actually need to start the bike. Assembled wise.
Stick the tank on and the key.
Go on. Do it. You know you want to. We want you to.

sweet stuff halo ....getting real close now .

Thanks guys it the tanks resto turn tonight
Ohhhhh l forgot about the pipes and muffler l havnt done them either

G'day Halo , you didn't see Chris & James for your fluids did you ? , I use them too , the ARAL fork oil is the best I've used thus far .

JR

Melbourne Australia

Thanks JR thats nice to know about the fork oil, the place I go which is close by is in Mitcham/ Ringwood on Heatherdale rd.

Opened the tank up last night for the first time and all looks good (surprised really) there has been a mod done to the fuel pump mounting which really is fairly clever though it's implementation is abit rough,





Halo

Yup that's where my thing goes for all it's work , I've been their customer for about 12 years now , Chris & James have never put a foot wrong , best advice & workmanship .

Ciao

Wow amazing what a small world, the old guy knows these old girls backwards and is really nice however all major parts times 2 cost compared with motorbins etc.

Halo

Well I couldn't help myself could I, just love these old girls now. I got this one for $1600 with new staintune pipe original great nick panniers new battery (it's a K100 RS 1986) great tyres and 167 thou k's on the clock with full service history



tipping the resto one stays on the coffee table ?

Halo

That looks like the one from Blackburn

Yep blackburn is just 10mins from my work

Darn good buying and now there is no excuse for not riding.

Yes Rick G you are correct and if it wasnt for this site and the work I have done on mine it wouldnt have been half as fun or informed when l purchased her

wow ...halo ...amazing

you keep on sending us surprises all the time ...

That is not a Yamaha?
What happened to that?
Ignore me. I am just plain old jealous.
Nice buy mate.
Looking forward to seeing it in Mittagong.
Stick the wife and kids in the car and give them a push northwards.
No excuses