BMW K bikes (Bricks)

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giles4060

giles4060
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Hi all...new to the forum hoping someone may be able to help. Bought a K100 RS '91 a couple of months ago. Initially fine then started cutting out when hot. Initially thought it was the Halls Sensor but when on a test ride to check coils where good when hot we had smoke and melted plastic as the right handle bar switch gear and main loom burnt out in six locations.

Have now replaced main loom with a second hand one. Tested for shorts and all seem ok. All electrics work (with no smoke) although had to re charge the battery first. Howver now:


  1. Fuel pump is not priming
  2. Fuel gauge always reads full (tank only half full)
  3. Gear indiactor always reads 1st (sometimes flickers to '0')
  4. Starter motor want turn over unless clutch is in (despite being in netrual)

I also had the tank of a drained while I was waiting for the new parts so has been dry for a couple of weeks.

Any help advice would be appreciated. The K was bought as an economical commuter (110miles a day) would be good if this turned out to be the case.

Many thanks in anticipation of someone pointing out something obvious I have neglected to do.

    

twincarb

twincarb
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If i am correct the reason it won't start without the clutch lever pulled in is because the bike thinks your in first gear. (safety feature) so once you sort out the gear position indicator that should clear that fault. look at the connections and clean and double check earths are all good.

Other than that i would need to have a peek at the wiring diagram to see if there is something common to them all....

to which.... if you have a look at the interactive diagram on the Portal tab, and click onto Fuel Pump you will see it in the bottom left, you then have a couple of wires going to the fuel level display, and then feeds back to fuse 6 .... those are the first area's that i would start looking in, Deoxit is a highly reccommended connector cleaner so would be worth a squirt on each of the connectors, making and breaking it a couple of time.....

Hope that the above has helped a bit...

    

giles4060

giles4060
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Many thanks for the useful advice.

    

twincarb

twincarb
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@giles4060 wrote:Many thanks for the useful advice.

Not a problem, dont forget to say hi in the New members section... and you will get to meet some of the characters around here...

    

Inge K.

Inge K.
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@giles4060 wrote:

  1. Fuel pump is not priming
  2. Fuel gauge always reads full (tank only half full)
  3. Gear indiactor always reads 1st (sometimes flickers to '0')
  4. Starter motor want turn over unless clutch is in (despite being in netrual)



1. Is the sidestand switch reconnected, after the harness change?
2. Could be a short to ground somewhere between the level sensor and the instrument.
3. Here is a "how to" check your GPI switch and wiring.
4. Twincarb have allready explained this good.

Inge K.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

giles4060

giles4060
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Silver member
Thank you will try these out and let you know.

    

RicK G

RicK G
admin
admin
Check out the 4 pin connector from the tank to the harness as often the female part on the harness goes O/C when the pin receptors open out due to being seperated quite often. Just carefully squeeze them or replace with a new 4 pin connector that is available from auto stores.
This could be the fuel pump and gauge problem.


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1998 K1100 LT, 1993 K75 RT, 1996 K75RT, 1986 K75 GS, 1979 Z1300 Kawasaki
    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
Silver member
Thanks all. Rather embarresingly I went out to the garage tonight to embark on an evening of fettling.

Quickly realised I had connected the coonector from the tank to the wrong one on the harness. As I have been doing the job slowly in stolen hours here and there I had forgottent that there were two identical connectors down that side of the bike.

Am now left with just a gear indictor that is a little inaccurate (reads 4th or 5th) and a bike that no longer recognises neutral. I suspect may be the connector onto the clocks which I will remove and clean later. Pump now priming and level sensor working. Engine now running and no smoke or melted wires

Feel a little daft. Thanks for the helpful advice.

    

ReneZ

ReneZ
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No worries mate, we're not born knowing all. Each of us has some tales to tell Cool


__________________________________________________
Greetings from Florida! Having a 'new' K  :cyclops:    Surprised-o: 

Rene


BMW K100 - 1985 (0030029) Problems with main loom replacement  Rain
BMW K1200GT - 2003 (ZK01223)
    

charlie99

charlie99
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good news giles ....keep at it ..cheers !!!


__________________________________________________
cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%OProblems with main loom replacement  Au-log10

'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
    

K75cster

K75cster
Life time member
Life time member
I thought the gear indicator connector and the fuel connector were on the same frame rail beside the electrical box. is this so any one? may be the area to search in.


__________________________________________________
Keith - 1987 K75c with r100rt replica fairing and half of a 1984 K100rt 1992 K1100LT a blue one

The Clever are adept at extricating themselves from situations that the wise would have avoided from the outset - QUOTE from david Hillel in Out of the Earth.
    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
Silver member
I think so as these were the two I got mixed up. I had it in my head that they were all diferrent connectors. Bike all back together now and now left over bits.

Now idling hi though and slow to return back to idle. suspect the throttle cable caught someone where.

Not a job for today.

    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
Silver member
Appaling typing.

Know starts and idles fine until revved....then remains high and returns very slowly. Throttle seems to be operating fine....returning against the stop at both ends.

Any ideas anyone?

    

K-BIKE

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Do the throttle butterflies close or does the cable return leaving slack with the butterflies open and those slowly creep closed until they catch up with the returned throttle cable?
Regards,
K-BIKE

    

giles4060

giles4060
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Silver member
Thanks K-BIKE I will check tomorrow.

    

K75cster

K75cster
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Life time member
Could it be a displaced return spring??


__________________________________________________
Keith - 1987 K75c with r100rt replica fairing and half of a 1984 K100rt 1992 K1100LT a blue one

The Clever are adept at extricating themselves from situations that the wise would have avoided from the outset - QUOTE from david Hillel in Out of the Earth.
    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
Silver member
Sounds plausible. Not sure where to find it but will consult the manual. All a bit of a learning curve. Whilst not a complete novice at tinkering it has mainlybeen general maintainence previously and general blacksmith's mechanics on an R.

Thanks for all your help and advice.

    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
Silver member
@giles4060 wrote:Appaling typing.

Know starts and idles fine until revved....then remains high and returns very slowly. Throttle seems to be operating fine....returning against the stop at both ends.

Any ideas anyone?

Removed the tank and repacked the wiring harness a bit looser. Throttle now behaving. Bike is now back on the road.

Now have a dodgy gear indiactor (thinks neutral is 4th and all other gears are fifth) and have to pull the clutch in to start (and no neutral light). See from other posts this is not uncommon and and have run out of energy to worry about this at the moment. It can join the list with the flashing ABS light!

Thanks for all you help. Great forum!

    

charlie99

charlie99
VIP
VIP
a good result ...!!


__________________________________________________
cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%OProblems with main loom replacement  Au-log10

'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
    

K75cster

K75cster
Life time member
Life time member
Good work now you can go ride it anyhow, once you recharge the batteries abit you might consider disconnecting the gear indicator and trying that one again, there has to be a simple reason why it wont play the game.


__________________________________________________
Keith - 1987 K75c with r100rt replica fairing and half of a 1984 K100rt 1992 K1100LT a blue one

The Clever are adept at extricating themselves from situations that the wise would have avoided from the outset - QUOTE from david Hillel in Out of the Earth.
    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
Silver member
@K75cster wrote:Good work now you can go ride it anyhow, once you recharge the batteries abit you might consider disconnecting the gear indicator and trying that one again, there has to be a simple reason why it wont play the game.

I did disconnect at the instrument end. Even gave it a little squirt of WD40 against my better judgement. I think some of the connecters may be pushed down a bit far to make connection. Thought better of removing the clocks as the bolts were so corroded I could see that this was going to create another sub list of jobs. It may be a problem at the other end but this was fine before meltdown so hoping not as I understand the switch at the other end is a pain to get to.

    

K75cster

K75cster
Life time member
Life time member
Yes the little pins require patience to get right, but I was thinking of the 4pin plug beside the frame tube it also may be dirty on one contact throwing the others off and causing the error


__________________________________________________
Keith - 1987 K75c with r100rt replica fairing and half of a 1984 K100rt 1992 K1100LT a blue one

The Clever are adept at extricating themselves from situations that the wise would have avoided from the outset - QUOTE from david Hillel in Out of the Earth.
    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
Silver member
@K75cster wrote:Yes the little pins require patience to get right, but I was thinking of the 4pin plug beside the frame tube it also may be dirty on one contact throwing the others off and causing the error

Thanks for the tip. I will check. You're right changing the loom was a good way to get to know my way around the bike.

    

K75cster

K75cster
Life time member
Life time member
Its good to get to know the bike. we play in the shed so we can play on the road, sometimes we feel all fingers and thumbs, then someone on here reminds you they're using similar fingers and thumbs


__________________________________________________
Keith - 1987 K75c with r100rt replica fairing and half of a 1984 K100rt 1992 K1100LT a blue one

The Clever are adept at extricating themselves from situations that the wise would have avoided from the outset - QUOTE from david Hillel in Out of the Earth.
    

K-BIKE

avatar
Life time member
Life time member
I personally do not believe WD 40 has any place near electrical contacts in plugs and sockets, use DeoxIT instead that is the right stuff to use.
Regards,
K-BIKE

    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
Silver member
Mmm....rather frustratingly after a week of trouble free riding the bike has started repeating the initial fault.Spluttering then cutting out when hot (normally 30 min of riding). Leave it a 5-10 mins and is fine until it warms up again.

I have a spare Halls Sensor which i will replace but if anyone has any further wisdom to share I would appreciate it.

    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
Silver member
Can anyone enlighten me why there are two connectors from the main loom to the coils but only one connector at the coil? Should this be taped up. Just shorted it of the frame by accident when i was checking routing of wires (i know i should have disconnected battery first).

    

Inge K.

Inge K.
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VIP
Green/yellow I assume, it should be one connector to each coil.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
Silver member
@Inge K. wrote:Green/yellow I assume, it should be one connector to each coil.

Sorry i'm an idiot. Didn't explain that very well. It's not the connectors to the coil but to the accessory socket that sits on top of the coil. Is there supposed to be a spare one or have i missed a connector somewhere? Brown and Grey / Red.

    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
I`ll guess you got a wiring to a double socket setup.

The genuine T-connectors used for the power sockets is well isolated, and difficult to short......aftermarket?

Double socket wiring....# 11:

Problems with main loom replacement  B0001910



Last edited by Inge K. on Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:03 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Adding picture.)


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
Silver member
The metal crimps inside the plastic housing are sitting slight proud of the plastic housing. Contact with frame is therefore quick easy. Still not 100% that this may be causing the problem though as it seems to run fine when cold.

    

Inge K.

Inge K.
VIP
VIP
If it`s a genuine socket wiring it`s connected via fuse #4, and the only thing connected to this fuse.


__________________________________________________
Inge K.
K100RS -86. (first owner), K1100LTSE -94.
    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
Silver member
@Inge K. wrote:If it`s a genuine socket wiring it`s connected via fuse #4, and the only thing connected to this fuse.



Thanks Inge thats really useful. I will take out fuse 4 and see if the problem persists.

    

giles4060

giles4060
Silver member
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Seems the Voltage Regulator was the problem. Thankfully seems to be running fine now.

    

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